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As most of the real wheelers on here, I am on NW-wheeler.com and there are a lot of local wheeling posted over there. Thanks for the compliments! Her new owner likes to go wheeling too, I just can't seem t get him on the forum....

The new owner of my old subaru went to play in the snow and go wheeling a little last weekend. The group that was with us didnt think it would make it.. Random pix

Sorry your having troubles. If you were looking at the front of the car at the drivers side strut this is how the spacer would be installed. It will be pointing out at the top and in at the bottom.

Very sorry, I had computer issues and lost everything. All I could find was an email with this information. I have the attached pictures I can send also if needed ( I need your email address). I also made a few different versions of my kits. These instructions are for my very first type kit. Call it model #001 (I dont konw what type you have but rear strut assembly spacer will be different.) I hope this helps INSTRUCTIONS Ok so most of you are probably going to be installing this yourself ( or atleast I hope so). So im going to give you instructions for in your driveway on jack stands. Although the pictures that are included in your kit have pictures. There not in the act of installing, they are what a completed product looks like for reference. Before you begin, lay out all your bolts with lockwashers and/or lock washers. Some are already equiped w/ a nut. These are differents then each other an need not try and mix up your nuts. Also go down to your local parts house and "rent" a spring compressor. They really only hold onto $20 as deposit untill you return the tool. That is if you dont own one. You can also get them really cheap from Sears. -We will begin with the rear- 1. Jack up your car from the diff. Place jack stands under the body. Make sure your car is high enough off the ground for clearance once your XX amount higher. 2. Remove wheels. 3. Place spring compressor on either rear spring and compress it. Take enough slack off that when you remove the bottom bolt holding the strut assembly, it doesnt try to extend farther. You can also now put in your rear strut assembly spacer. 4. Place O.E.M. bolt from strut back in the same location. Fit strut in new home and place the 7/16x3in bolt, washers, lockwasher and nut in place of O.E.M. bolt, tighten. 5. Note the tab on rear strut spacer. Drill 1/4in hole threw the hole in tab and fit a 1/4in bolt, lockwasher and nut, tighten. -see attached picture #1 6. Relieve spring compressor, move on to the other side and repeat steps 3-5 7. Place Jack under the differencial, jack it up just enough to hold it in place ( do not lift the car). Note the bar in the rear that holds the diff assembly up. Remove the 2 bolts on each side ( 4 total ) attaching it to the body. 8. Move up to the 4 bolts that hold up the diff. Remove the 4 nuts and the 1 bolt holding the diff hanger at the top. Lower the diff enough to get this diff hanger out. 9. Grind off the welds on diff hanger bracket to remove the 4 studs. 10. Move back to vehicle and push four 1/2x7/14in bolts and washers in the diff, from the bottom up. Place the spacers between diff hanger and diff. Fit with washer and lock nut. These are locking nuts. They wont back out. They are hard to turn but are the only thing that will not fail due to extensive heat. Hammer them as tight as you can. 11. Fit the top bolt that holds the diff hanger and move to the bolts you removed in step 7. Fit the 5 1/2x3in blocks and m10x4 1/4in bolts, washers, lock washer and nut. Tighten. 12. Move to other side and repeat. 13. Remove both bolts holding the carier bearing (center of driveline) Fit both 3in spacers, m10x4 1/4in bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts, Tighten. -see attached picture #2 and #3 14. Put the wheels back on, lower car and move to the front. Note the height of the rear of your car! -On to the front- 1. Jack up car and place jack stands under body. Do not block any engine or transmission braces. All the blocks are fitted first and tightened at the end. 2. Remove wheels 3. Remove steering knuckle, remove the upper stabalizer bar from the firewall( its the small round rod that has bushings on each end and goes from the engine to the firewall) Check clearances of any wiring and radiator hose. Note. I didnt have any issues, zero, didnt extend anything. BUT, I have an after market radiator, so my lower hose was already lower and I already had a different lower hose. Upper hose was extended w/ a temperature sensor addaptor (pretty much you cut your upper hose and put an aluminum piece in the middle that has a hole in it for a temp sensor). 4. Things that you should check the length of and probably extend. A. Ground that goes from chassis to block, right by the battery B. Ground that goes from chssis to block, right under the spare tire. C. You may or may not have to "Bend" your shift lever rod for 4wd to clear your interior plastic due to its new positioning. You will know if you cant shift down far enough to get into 2wd. You can figure this out once the lift is complete. D. Upper and lower rad hoses. Other than that I didnt notice anything. 5. Place jack under engine crossmember but dont lift vehicle. Working one side at a time. Remove the two bolts holding the engine crossmember to frame. Remove the phillips screw holding the studs and bracket to the frame from the top. Grind off the welds holding the studs to bracket. 6. Move to the other side and loosen the eng crossmember bolts to the end of its threads. This will give you some working room. Moving back to the side you worked on in step 5, Lower the jack 3 inches. this will give you clearance for the lift block, If it doesnt you need to loosen your transmission crossmember bolts a bit. Install the 7x3in blocks and fit the m12x7 7/8 bolts in the bracket and drop back in the frame. Place a dab of locktite to the new bolts, fit the flange nut and "finger tight only" -see attached picture #4 and #5 7. Move to the other side and repeat. 8. Remove exhaust hanger from useless crossmember, remove and discard. 8. Place jack under the transmission crossmember. Remove the 3 bolts on each side (6 total) holding the crossmember bracket to frame. Lower jack enough to fit the larger angled blocks the only way they fit (see attached picture #6 and #7). Fit the m12x5 1/4in bolts,washers and lockwashers in the ones with bushings. Fit the m12x4in bolts, washers and lock washers in the other two. Finger tight only 9. Place the smaller angled blocks between the lower rear two transmission crossmember to frame. Fit the last two m12x4in bolts, washers and lock washers and finger tigten. -see attached picture #8 and #9 10. Starting from the front working back tighten all the bolts with a wratchet, not an impact gun. Take special care to have a few threads started before putting a wrench to it. These arent nuts you want to strip out. 11. Lower your driveshaft carrier bearing. Fit the round spacers and torque. 12. Fit steering knuckle and move on to the front spring spacers. -Front spring spacers- 1. Start by removing both pins holding the D.O.J. to the output shafts. Remove both bolts that hold the control arms to the engine crossmember and front sway bar to control arm bolts while your under there. 2. Turn the wheel and pull clip holding the brakeline to strut. Take a cut-off wheel and cut the tab that the brakeline goes through. This way you can just bend the tab and slide out the brakeline and not have to re-bleed the brakes. 3. Remove the bolt holding the locking tab on the bottom of strut. Remove the main lower bolt holding the strut. Using a punch, tap down on the hub assembly. You may have to pry the control arm away from the crossmember, but by removing the d.o.j. pins alone gives you a few extra inches. 4.Once the bottom is out you can remove the 3 nuts holding the strut in at the top. With the strut out. fit the spacer at the top. Take three 1/4in bolts, lock washers and six nuts. Start at the top with the hardest to reach bolt first. Then the outer two. Re-assemble in reverse order 5. Repeat for other side. You will probably need an alignment. RE-TORQUE IN ONE WEEK!!! Take pictures and send them to me. Enjoy. Thanks again Jess

Thanks for saying it was nicely put together. It was a very tough choice for me and I am pretty sure I made the right call. I owned the wagon for 4 years and enjoyed it the whole time. I dont think it has really set in yet ( I havent seen it drive past me yet :-\ ). I just need a truck and any which way you flip it, I got a killer deal. I know the toy needs some work but it will be fun learning somthing new. Tomorrows plans -Clutch, PP, pilot brg, throw out brg -Rear main -Trans flush fill -oil and filter -clean air filter -rewire reverse lights -rewire electric fan Should be fun

The weirdest thing happend yesterday. A friend of mine is going on a 5 day camping trip in a week. His truck recently took a crap and He needed to take his work van. I was over at his house putting a hitch, wiring and brake control one of his work vans. (This is where it gets interesting) One of my friends brothers is over there and he is all about my white wagon. He asked to really over look it and see how it was lifted and what was done to it. I told him I didnt mind. While I was working I noticed him and the guy he brought over looking it over and chatting about it. He asked what I would take for it. I told him I could never get what I wanted out of it. He was like would you take my truck? I was like are you serious? He has quite a few lifted toyota trucks and recently picked up a 93 IFS "road queen" that he had nothing into and held zero interest. AND for some reason he was all about owning my wagon. After I offered a test drive, told him it stopped at 7 psi the way it sits and he was off. Today we traded titles straight across. Here is what I got.. 93 Toyota pickup w/ 166k Headgasket went and a new eng was installed at 138k -Reciepts for fresh eng, cam, and install 30k ago -Reciepts for new gears up front and rear making the speedo work perfect with 33's -Recipets for 6" lift and install -For some reason pretty nice bilstien rear shocks -A very clean interior (buckets here I come) -A title transfered today (Total cost out of pocket today was just over $100) Oh and about....A 2k come up I just dont know what to think about not owning my wagon..... Its truly disheartining.

Calling all with webers. How is your pcv system set up.... Is my "causing damage"?

No I cant find it.. GD could you dig it up please... I remember it was from 04... Also, I cant find any ea71's. Is there any way we can find a way to fix this with aftermarket parts?

I just really wanted to see what a wagon would go for. I dont sell my things, I just break it and hang it some where as expensive art. I actually got an offer of $3000 last week and turned it down. Then I started thinkin about turning it in toward the "cash for clunkers" thing but want to stick with buying a house instead. I just love my car too much :-\

I see where your coming from if you have like one car. But the first 2 years I put 80k on it when I was primarily driving it every day. Now I have 3 bikes and 4 cars. I put about 10-15k on each a year. Plus keep really good records of everything. I dont like to sell anything I own, It was just a question.

IMO, I think I would get about $500- $1000 less on the forum but you never know. Im worried 2k is about all she is worth, crappy because all the parts cost more than 2k. But if thats the case. Its worth more to me to keep it for ever.