byronc10

As recomended by the experts here, I purchaced a new hyd timing belt tensioner , the dealership has them in stock (imagine that ) ,the counter person told me they were re designed because of the high failure rate and that is why they stock them ,I wanted to pass this info along , by the way they run about 105.00 and require no modifications to install just re do the timing belt again

I thought I would write back and thank all of you who put in your 2 cents in to help us out, we found out that the TDC mark means nothing really when replacing the timing belt. it is the mark on the ignitor plate that is the correct one not the one on the pulley (TDC) after talking to a subaru tech at the local dealership he confirmed that the marks on the ignitor plate have really nothing to do with TDC but more to the relief from cam tension so you can install the belt so I did all of this and the engin ran and ran well but I think the tensioner is weak because the drivers side cams skipped out of time during start up and leak check and the passenger side still lines up when aligning the mark up whith the crank do any of tyou have opinions ?

OK I belive you about the crank but I still stand on the fact that I will have to turn the crank 90 degrees to put the keyway at the 6 position and the piston will be on its down stroke I have checked over and over and over with the heads off I used a dial indicator to find absolut TDC and the keyway was at 3 unless the crank is broken????????

so have you ever heard of a noid for checking the injectors ?? it also was in the repair manule LOL they just want me to buy all fo these crazy tools off of the snap on truck

sorry It is a in line spark checking tool for distribtor less engins you do not have to remove the spark plug and you will not accidentaly hit a sensor with stry voltage ZAP POW ZAM 50 bucks

that is one of my quanderies out of all of you you all say the same thing the mark should be straight up and the key way should be straight down BUT I'm telling ya's with the #1 piston at TDC my key way is at the 3 oclock position and my mark on the timing belt pulley on the crank shaft is pointing rite at the notch in the block 12 o clock could this only 1996 because I have read about the 1997 and the did a lot of mods to the motor :-\

I have spark I check with coil only spark tool

I think the dash outlet is fused but the rear power outlet is a fusable link built into the socket unless they have changed the design since 96 do not twist push in pull out the twist is what always blows my honda fuse, also I do not think they show the rear power outlet in the wiring diagrams factory denial LOL

I have searved time in a tranny shop and I can tell you subs are a slick piece for the service industry easy to work on there is one trick i learned you could use to get a better flush of fluid at the radiator find the pressure line OUT of the radiator attach a length of hose and clamp it on to the radiator leavin the hose to the trans loose place the loose end from the radiator into a drain pan with good capasity I recomend 2 people to do this !!!!! fill the trans with fluid . start motor at an Idle fluid should only come out of the hose you added and clamped onto the radiator. do this only till the flow starts to be speratic before it pumps air stop engin and repeat this will give you a system flush removing most of the old fluid and replacing it with new in the converter and the radiator reinstall your cooling lines to the radiator and refill and top off the trans remember keep your fluid level on the low side of the dip stick trans fluid expands a lot and low is better than to full there are also additives to inprove your shift or smooth it out depending on what you want this will take about 12 quarts of fluid

no new injectors just new o rings and an ohm test they all came in within spec have you ever used a noid ??? to check the electrical pulse to the injector? if I am spelling it correctly

I hope I have air if there is a shop rag in the intake I.m going to be upset good pressure at the filter and fuel in the injector rails non dist. spark checker got spark just ask my girl friend I told her to put the tool down

I cracked open the injector rail after attempts to start and there is plenty of pressure there is also a good flow from the return line from the fuel pressure regulator . could the regulator be bad ?? the book says while running pinch off the return line to see if it affects the running of the motor I would just like it to run so I can try that test !

I was steered here by the members of the Yahoo subaru tech. Thanks we have a 1996 w/ a 2.5 dual cam , we replaced the head gaskets after having the heads shaved and the valves faced and laped. new battery new timing belt stringently following all directions for instalation replaced the cam angle sensor Pulley replaced all gaskets on the intake egr throttle body injectors so on so on now that everything is together the car will not start !!! no codes no nothing I pinched off fuel supply and it sort of makes an attempt but never a real sign of running . I have tested every thing the book gives a test for just shy of buying a o- scope and I cannot figure out what the problem is I will romance any Ideas this is getting fubar!! Byron