ocei77

08 Impreza NA 2.5 MT Replaced Right cylinder head in NC. Drove back to NY State, with no issues, other than vibration at certain speeds. Was ball joints. Both pinch bolt heads broke off and had to drill them out. Once replaced, got P0500. ABS sensor. Friend has MAXISYS scanner and was able to go into the brake modules. Replaced both left and right abs sensors, in addition to the driver side axle. Codes gone, but I now have what seems to be a relay clicking. When the engine is turned to start, after about 5 seconds there is a sound that seems to be coming from the radio area. I get 4 cycles lasting about 1 1/2 seconds each. Even if I turn the switch off, after the sequence starts it will continue to the end. Removed radio and the temp control unit, but still cannot locate the source. Looking under the dash area, there are no relays there. As close as I can tell , the vibration is near the firewall. Nothing in the engine bay in that area. Will add a video as soon as I can, in the midst of replacing a phone. Suggestions???

Look here Subaru IMPREZA — Subaru parts catalog (opposedforces.com) O.

Looks good. Glad to know the carbine brass works if that should happen. I know you are happiy with the three cats and 5 O2 sensors.3

Went back over every detail and found that there were two teeth missing from the crank sprocket. Replaced and starts right up. Will test drive tomorrow.

History I have rebuilt and swapped about a dozen EJ engines since 2004. Currently have a 2008 NA impreza that has me stumped. Bought with busted block last year. Replaced short block, but alas in February the bearings started to go. Got another block from a 2001 Legacy. Of course my heads, manifold and crank. Also the 9mm oil pump with the crank sensor from the last iteration. Issue. It won't start!! It has fuel, it has air and I am triple checking the spark. I have voltage to the coil. Thought it might be a ground issue. But other than the usual, plus a few i added to the heads. It's grounded. Did the timing over, just because, but no change. Sometimes the `simplest answer is the right one, but it escapes me. Where to next?

EJ_cr_matrix (1) (1).pdfEJ_cr_matrix (1) (1).pdf Maybe this?

Get the front end off the ground and holding at the sides, then on the verticals, see if you have play. Check the ball joints by prying between the A arm and the knuckle. Make sure all your lug nuts are tight. Double check the axle nut. O.

same as Subaru :::Stant 48457

Subaru Factory Service Manuals (FSM) - Every Model - USDM/EU (sl-i.net) Look up your model and year and go to the wiring diagrams, find it there. O..

PZEV started in 04. 89-93 1 94-98 2 99-04 3, etc. these are US models. every 5 years, include the year you start with I am partial to the 5th gen styling, but I like the 4th also. O.

pics of your gasket would help. O.

Lift it as you turn and apply inward pressure. When fully seated it should be out about 1/4 inch from the housing. O.

If it's leaking oil from under the timing cover it can only be the cam or crank seals. I've routinely used Fel pro for years and have never had issues with them. Can't speak for other brands. Check #4 plug for oil. Also remove the cam sensor and make sure it is not covered in oil and dirt giving bad signal. Check the crank sensor for all the teeth .

Check blowby on oil rings. After warmup hold clean paper in exhaust and see if you get oil.

Never knew that!!!

Finally got around to checking the timing. Spot on. Checked continuity for both ends of cam sensor wires. Good. Did not get to the ECU side. Suggestions?

Don't know what brand you used, but I've never had a problem with Fel Pro intake gaskets. O.

Haven't done all the suggestions yet, so that is the reason I have been slow to update. Immediate return of code YES. Cam and crank sensors are fully tightened. The cam sensor has been cleaned with carb cleaner, will do crank tomorrow. All installed and tight. I half checked the timing belt ( only checking the alignment of Bank two and the crank mark. Will pull all to check that all three are aligned.)

Car 2005 Legacy. CA emissions. Short block from 2003 recently swapped. Got P340 cam sensor code. Never had before swap. Pulled connector to check for 5 volts. No 5 volts, but the car started and runs w/o a hiccup!!!! Where do I start?

Also could be security lockout. Is there a small black button to the left of the steering wheel at the lower part of the panel? If so, you have to hold it in when turning the key to start. O.

Can't answer that question, but I have used the specs as I gave them for 2 different SOHC blocks. One from a 2005 which was Fed emissions, but I have an 05 with the the CA emissions. Put my heads on it and ran it for at least 30K, but the rings were going bad and I was burning a lot of oil. Finally got another block with a little over 100K and again put my heads on it. Running like a top, A little over 2k since install. O.

You misread the post. It's not talking about backing off the bolts, but the tightening. O.

2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 21.4 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Retighten all bolts to 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (4) Back off all bolts by 180q in the reverse order of installation, and back them off again by 180q. (5) Tighten all bolts to 49 Nm (5.0 kgf-m, 36 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 — 90q in alphabetical sequence. (7) Tighten all bolts by 40 — 45q in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts more than 45q. (8) Further tighten the bolts (A) and (B) by 40 — 45q FSM : Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru (jdmfsm.info) Basically after you tighten them all to 36 ft lbs. You do the angle tightening of 90 deg. Then ALL for 45 deg. Then ONLY the center 2 for an additional 45 deg. O.

No they are not. Some are threaded and some were a press fit into the manifold. Take a picture and go to the auto parts store. Not hard to match.

Generally the thickness is stamped on the inside of the rotor, IIRC it is 22mm. O.