Zootal

1994 Subaru Legacy. FWD. 4dr. Non-turbo. 230,000 miles or so. Normally purrs like a kitten. Symptoms: engine will idle, but miss intermittently, every few seconds or so. Sometimes it's better, sometimes it's worse, sometimes it will stall and sometimes it won't idle at all. When it's acting up, it is hard to start. Has good power otherwise, no noticeable problems at higher engine speed. It's been doing this for weeks, but today it got so bad that it won't idle half the time and now my wife refuses to drive it (I don't blame her). Here is where it gets interesting. With the key on and engine *off*, the tachometer jumps every second or so. It will jump up to 500-1000 rpm point, then drop to zero. The frequency of this is ever second or three, and is the same frequency that it stumbles at idle. The check engine light is *not* on. This eliminates a whole slew of possibilities, and narrows it down to some weird electrical problem. It doesn't get worse when I hit a bump or slam the door (my old chevy vega would stall if I slammed the door, but that is another story). Anyone have experience with this model and recognize these symptoms? I'm not sure what to do other than check the various electrical connections and think about replacing the ecu. PS: The battery is fully charged and is fairly new, it cranks very well. Alternator is fairly new. It charges just fine when the engine runs. AFAIK there are no obvious mechanical problems, nothing makes noise, it normally just purrs and runs fine. Until this started happening. With the engine OFF and key ON, the tachometer jumps, but the lights do not flicker, and no other lights or instruments act up.

Any recommendations for a replacement transmission? I can get a rebuild kit for less than $300, and while I worked as a mechanic many years ago, my specialty was electrical and carburetors (that is how long it's been, I use to make a living overhauling carbs). I don't really have the tools and expertise to rebuild an auto tranny. $2500 gets a rebuilt unit from the local parts store. $500 gets a junkyard unit. Any recommendations?

Actually, I'm in Phoenix AZ now. Was in Lebanon, Oregon. From rain to hotter than hell, July and August days are almost always in excess of 110, and 115 is not that unusual. Thanks both of you. I actually bought a set of strut mounts. When I did the front struts, the mount bearings/bushings were getting bad, so I don't expect these to be any better. I haven't pulled the wheels so don't know if I can repack the wheel bearings or if they are pressed into a hub like the front ones are, but I'll be sure to check those. I have a set of pads and new rotors. I always reuse the factory clips, though the set that came with these pads are surprisingly sturdy - usually, the clips that come with new pads are flimsy and I just throw them in the trash. Inspect brake cables, though the front ones were not cracking at all. I replace the front axles every 2 years or so because the after market crap axles just don't last. The boots split after a year or two.

1994 Subaru Legacy FWD 4 door sedan. 280,000 miles or so. I'm replacing the rear struts since they are quite old and have been leaking for a while. Anyone with experience with this model that can suggest other things that should be done while I have it apart? I've never done the rear brakes, I figure I should probably do them while I have it apart. What other things should be done on a vehicle this old?

Here in Phoenix, AZ, they still run them on the dyno for about 30 seconds. So I replaced O2 sensor, detonation sensor, plugs ( plugs were clean, did not need replacing), air filter. Took car out and got it good and hot. Test. Pass. *barely*. HC at idle was 216, limit is 220. I looked up previous tests, and the HC at idle two years ago was about 20 or 30, very low. I think this cat is on it's last legs, as nothing else seems to be wrong. Plugs were clean, tailpipe is clean, idles as smooth as can be, runs great, gets great mileage. If we can get another two years out of it, I'll replace the cat next time around, but I don't expect it to last another two years. The transmission shifts hard and it's burning about a quart of oil every 1000 miles. My wife is a lead foot stop/go driver, and the tranny clunks every time she steps on the gas or lets off. Didn't used to do this. I've felt it slip a time or two, and I'm just waiting for it to finally die.

4x4 labs has a direct fit front cat and pipe assembly, $300. Looks like that will be my next stop if it doesn't pass.

Tyvm everyone. Knock sensor - huh never would have thought. Got one on order. O2 sensor - also cheap - I'll just replace it while I'm at it. Any suggestions as to where I can find a cat that actually fits? All I've been able to find are after-market generics that need to be welded in place. AND just to make things interesting - "Honey, did leave the engine running while in line, right?" "No, I shut it off so it wouldn't get hot". At which point I start banging my head on my desk but sadly all that did was give me a headache....<sigh>.... So yeah, I'm replacing knock sensor and O2 sensor this weekend, and this time I'll make sure the engine is HOT and see if it will pass. If it doesn't, I'll go for a new cat.

Bad knock sensor? Weird...it must have kept retarding the timing, thinking it was knocking. That would definitely effect performance, because the ECU will retard the timing if it thinks it's knocking. But you would not think that would cause emission failure, but who knows? They are dirt cheap, maybe I'll slap one in for S&G. No vacuum leans that I am aware of, it idles as smooth as can be. Engine temp is good, it has an authentic Subaru thermostat. Can you even adjust timing on these things? It doesn't have a distributor. Fuel economy is good, power is great. It runs great, nothing has changed - except high HC. Could the catalytic converter be failing because of the high mileage?

Oh I forgot to ask - at this high mileage, should I be thinking of fuel injectors? Do these need replacing after a while?

1994 Subary Legacy. Non-turbo. 4dr at sedan. 240,000 or so miles (might be 280,000). Burns a bit of oil, but maybe one quart between oil changes at the most. Today it failed emissions, hydrocarbon too high. It has new plugs, new air filter, new fuel filter. Plug wires look perfect, coil is clean. Runs perfectly, no misfire that I'm aware of. Check engine light does not come on. Fuel mileage is the same as always. I haven't checked compression, but it turns over evenly fwiw. What else is there that can go wrong to cause this? I hate to start throwing parts at it, but I'm thinking O2 sensor next, and then what? Any kind soul here have any experience with these older cars and emissions and know the things most likely to cause this?

I could probably return them, but I think I"ll stick in the trunk of the car for next time. I finally got the thing put back together, and it is running fine. I got lucky, it didn't overheat enough to do any immediate damage. I went ahead and replaced belts, hoses, plugs, filters, etc. We should be good for another 50,000 miles at least.

Yes, that is what I meant, idler pulleys. One rough, one iffy, two OK but I don't want to have to tear down the front of this thing for another 60k miles, when the timing belt need replacement again. The look like big rollers because 3 of them run on the back of the timing belt, where the 4th is geared. I called the dealer - between $90 and $100 each. I was able to find a kit, with belt, for $350, Napa (hope it's a good quality brand. The car overheated enough to sputter, and when it did my wife stopped imemdiately. Also, the water pump was turning some, enough to prevent overheat at idle. That is what threw me, it would sit there and idle all day without overheating. If I wasn't 14 freeway miles from home, I would have idled home instead of having it towed. And to tell you how stupid I can be LOL. I did not know the thermostat was bolted to the bottom of the engine, I assumed it was under the intake manifold because the upper hose went into a pipe that went under the mainfold. So, being the genious I am, I went and spent $30 or so on some tools at K-Mart because I didn't have my tools with me, pulled the intake manifold, and... no thermostat!! Then, when I put it back together, the intake manifold gasket bent at the end and I had a big air leak.

Update: I stripped the front of the engine. Waterpump had seized. If I didn't damage something by overheating, then we should be good to go. After I spend way too much money for water pump, rollers (2 bad, might as well replace all 4)(OMG, you would not believe how much these cost!), timing belt, belts, hoses. $20 for air tool fittings because my air tools have different fittings then compressor. Oil, oil flter, plugs, air filter, antifreeze (might as well service it while I have it apart), $105 for tow job. $50 for tools while I'm stuck in K-Mart parking lot and don't have any tools with me. $50 for t-stat and manual. $20 for pizza and soda for kids while stuck at K-Mart. Somehow I've spent $800, and I just don't understand where the money goes.

Coolant system is intact - I have not yet pulled water pump, though, and everything I hear points to water pump. I'll do that first thing in the morning. At this point it's water pump or head gaskets. Water pump is relatively cheap and easy to do. Head gaskets is not....

Symptoms: engine temp guage went to top, radiator started dumping antifreeze on ground. If I shut it off, it cools off - real fast. 5 minutes later, temp guage is at halfway point. I start it, it idles fine, fans come on. But if I try to drive, temp shoots up real fast. I replaced thermostat, as that is the most likely culprit. No change. I had a shop tell me that the head gasket was blown, but I don't think they actually did anything but lift the hood. I had another old timer tell me to replace the waterpump. Based on my brief description and your knowledge of this engine, any suggestions? Does this sound familiar? I had one person suggest I replace the waterpump before I start to yank the engine, which is my next step. If it's blown, I'll overhaul it myself, but don't want to do this unless it really is blown.