nathan.chase

Hi everyone, I need help getting my brake drums off a 2.2 Impreza Sport. I tried getting off my brake drums and both sides wouldn't pull off. They aren't stuck to the hub but the grooves in the drum and pads I assume are not allowing the drum to pull off. Parking brake was off. What size is the bolt you can screw into the drum? Am I missing something else, perhaps you have to adjust the brakes off or something? thanks for the help.

thanks. You were right! the box is hard to line up and it wasn't making a good seal.

I just got this car. I replace the air filter and started noticing it bogging down under full throttle. up to 1/2 throttle it's fine. push it all the way down gets interesting:Motor gets loud. fog horn sound. like it's bogging down, Slow pickup lke it's not advancing. Possible Causes: Do these filters need to seal down in the box? Can you put these in reversed, does that matter? Maybe the filter seal or some vacuum line is messing with the vacuum advance? 2.2 Outback Sport which has a the big rectangle box under the hood scoop. Thanks for the help.

How much time does it take to replace a trani? How much effort for a backyard mechanic? I did my first timing belt in about 6 hours to give you an idea of how fast I work. thanks

Hi, Trying to diagnose what sounds like bad bearings in the trani. The typical grinding, wiring sound of a bad bearing. thinking of buying this car. 130K 5sp, list$1500. Symptoms: No noise when clutch pedal is down noise when in neutral and clutch is out Lots of noise when accelerating no noticeable noise when coasting or decelerating (could be covered by motor and street noise though) some noise when the engine is off and rolling in any gear forward with the clutch down. Possible Diagnosis I've thought of: Throwout bearing- shouldn't this only grind when pushing down on the clutch pedal? why would it make so much more noise when accelerating and no noticeable noise when coasting and decelerating. other internal bearings in trani? - makes noise when any gears are moving, or when the clutch is out and in neutral (trani input shaft is still moving in all of these scenario I think). perhaps a bearing associated with the input shaft. History: car had clutch replaced at 100K. Hillstart added at this point. Conclusion: Seems weird to have TO bearing issues 30K after replacement. although TO can cause alot of noise at wierd times when they are shot it shouldn't make noise when rolling in gear and the engine is off, right? Seems most likely another internal bearing but having never worked on trani's I don't know. thanks NC

turbo is a replace as a whole unit type thing. I have never done one or even seen one on a subi just volvo's. The engine is definitely designed to run with the turbo and I assume wouldn't run with it taken out. Furthermore, most turbo's exhaust systems are shaped differently to accommodate the turbo, so it would be easy to just take one piece out. I can't imagine replacing a turbo to be much harder than replacing a typical exhaust piece such as the manifold, it just a matter of getting your hands on a new unit. most turbo's fail because they are driven hard right before shutting off the engine so they are spinning really fast with no oil pressure from the engine to the turbo bearings. The other typical killer is infrequent oil changes. My point being, if this has low miles and the turbo is going it could mean the car was driven hard and not maintained very well. Something to think about. I'd source a turbo and think about a good saturday to replace it, then see if its still a good deal.

I got it today! $1600 and she drives like a dream! 188K exactly, passed smog famously, now I am going to order a TB and Water pump kit from ebay and be on my merry way. She looks great and by the looks of the engine bay, mechanical, and interior, she has been well looked after. thank you all for your help. -nate

So they are smogging the vehicle today. If it passes I agreed to buy the car for $1600. means I just need to do timingbelt-waterpump, probably two tires for the front and I'm on the road. I think its a good deal as around here it seems worse looking cars go for $2500. gives me a $900 cushion if I need to sell it. thanks for your help

I'm looking pretty seriously at this car and I am wondering if anyone has car fax whether they would be willing to run the vin for the car. Its a 1995, Legacy, 188k, vin: 4s3bk6356s7337098 thanks

The only issue is that having a leaking water pump might make it hard to get it smogged. It does have an OBD port above the hood release, does that mean it is definitely OBDII and therefore California smog ready. I don't know what OBDI is or looks like, is that just the LED blinking on the computer? I phone a couple of smog places and they say these are usually fine so this could be a good bargaining chip to get him down on his price.

So I went and looked at it and here is what I found: 1. It drove extremely well, even power throughout the range. 2.Didn't know about the torque bind issue so I didn't check. 3. When I lifted a front wheel off the ground with the jack it had some play rotating forward and back. is that normal? THere weren't any clunks when going between drive and reverse. MY BIG QUESTION: I couldn't find whether it was california emissions ready, no sticker. Somebody told me that 1995 and up are all built for Californian emissions standards. Is that true? if anyone has car fax it would be great to get the info on the car. I don't have carfax. vin: 4s3bk6356s7337098

Dear USMB's, I am looking at 1995 Outback L, 188k, 2.2L engine for $1900 tomorrow. So far the owner says it needs: 1. water pump replaced right away 2. should probably do timing Belt too w/ pulleys and all if I am doing the water pump. 3. register the vehicle in California from Washington. (smog, brake/light test) He mentioned that he had the coolant tested for exhaust and had no issues but said Subaru's at this high mileage tend to need head gasket repairs. Seems like he is trying to cover his rump roast, or he is genienly trying to be honest. Or it is lacking power and he was trying to figure out what was wrong. I used to have a '87 GL so I know a little about Subaru's from repairing it. In your experience what should I look for with these cars? What goes at 188k? Do the 2.2's have head gasket issues? seems the EA 1.8L didn't @ 220k, but the EJ2.5's do. What would one of these car's sell for in good condition if I wanted to get rid of it after repairing the pump? your expertise is highly appreciated. -nate

nice idea but because it stops so abruptly it seems like something more electical perhaps. maybe not, I'll have to check. thanx

forgot: normal diagnostic mode I got code 6 which isn't supposed to be a code -nate

Hey all, I have had my subaru parked for the past few years and just put it back on the road. It started up just fine and has run well. Last weekend I drove ~250 down to SF and the next morning when I started it up the computer light came on and the car just about stalled and had no bottom end power until it got alittle warm. Symptoms: this Only happens on start-up when cold stalls without some gas pedal, no cold high idle I have to flick the gas pedal to get it to climb in RPM stalls if gassed hard below 2000RPM computer light on computer light goes off and it works fine but flickers back on and almost stalls no low end power I coded the engine and got: 11&14- crank angle sensor/circuit 13- injector 1 21- coolant Temp 24- air control 51- neutral switch (I always get this) I was told this computer is questionable so perhaps it is just ************ing up. This idle thing is wierd and I can`t imagine what would cause it and these codes seem like a rat race. My dear friends.... Ideas? nate 87 SPFI d/r wagon 240K and getting 30mpg