voodstoc

Ok, thank you, guys! I will try to remember to post my results for future people. I feel bad because I usually only get on here when I have a problem... ~J

As far as a vacuum leak goes, a coworker once told me to use starter fluid to spray the hoses while the motor idled and when the motor revved, then I found the leak. Not sure if that works (I never tried it). I figured they just didn't want any responsibility, so refered me to the dealer. ~J

122,000 miles. They read the code for free, but I suspect it was a subaru-specific code. ~J

2000 Outback limited, 2.5 auto wagon. I took the cat to Autozone and this code came up along with two others they wouldn't give me (or couldn't he didn't make a distinction) other than telling me the dealer would have to look at the car and mentioning something about a vacuum leak. OBD 2 code p0468 " The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from the evap purge flow sensor is too high for the current engine operating conditions." I have a Haynes manual and this code is not addressed. The car is my girlfriend's (we both have the same car) and she is getting about 270 miles per tank, whereas she is used to getting closer to 350 or more from 12 to 14 gallons. Any help you guys can offer me would be great. I'm no mechanic, but since I am layed off from work I have the time to try and fix this myself. Thanks! ~J

I bought a Kicker CVR84 and it sounds much better and quite a bit louder. I will need a bigger box, though, for the sound I want. I am going to rebuild the box in layers, similar to this one from Probox. I think I can get .4 cubic feet, which will give me the sound I am looking for. It's a great idea, I just wish I had a CNC router to make it with. If I knew how to use fiberglass, I think that would be the way to go, really. I also saw an aftermarket sub enclosure for 05 and newer legacy/outback wagons which sits behind the rear wheel well. Most likely won't fit a 2000, though. ~J

No, but there is a spare below the box though it just barely fits. It limits the subs you can use because they have to be able to operate in a small enclosure. The one I bought works, but I had to stuff a bunch of polyester inside. I will eventually get a different sub with smaller enclosure requirements. The box shown is .22 cu.feet on the inside. Many higher-watt subs need at least .4-.8 or more. If you were going to use fiberglass, I don't think it would be hard to get that volume. This won't give you bass that hits, but it adds warmth to my door speakers, plus it's hidden! ~J

Thanks! Also, those wires at the bottom are for my trailer connection. They used to sit in the tray and now I have to stuff them under the box. Didn't want anyone to think I was pulling power from the blinkers or anything! ~J

Here are the pieces of the actual box, top, bottom and four of the eight sides. This will be attached to the lid I cut out to replace the tray. I used the tray as a template. The box attached to the lid. The finished product with quick disconnect so I can remove it at will. Before... ...And after. The cover will have to be perforated because it muffles the bass more than I would have thought. It also vibrates against the tray, so I will have to deal with that as well. I am thinking about screwing it together. When the cover is closed, you can't tell a sub is underneath it at all. I'm pretty proud of this and I hope somebody else can use this idea. Rock on. ~J

I found a shallow 8 inch sub that I am going to use. It's a Pyramid, but it should be good enough for now. I also bought an Audiobahn A2002t amp. I have the power wire in and I will be making the box soon. Since I can assume that anyone reading this can do the amp and wiring, I will take some picks of the box and how it fits above the tire. The really cool thing is that the box will sit under the cover, replacing the tray only. I just hope the cover doesn't interfere with the bass coming from the speaker. If it works out, it will be totally stealth. The driver that Kimokalihi mentioned above would also work (depending on the enclosure size requirement), but it was more than I wanted to spend on a driver, though it would be nice to have a ten, instead of an eight. The box will be sealed, though I think if I got rid of the spare or carried it somewhere else a ported box would be feasible. ~J

Well, I thought of using up some of the floor height, but I think I can so this without raising the floor at all and still keep the spare. If I got rid of the spare, I'd have a ton of space, but then I'd get a flat tire within hours, I know it!:-\ I guess if nobody posts anything, I will post a pic when/if I do this. I'm not going to be pushing the amp with a single eight, so it won't have to get too much circulation. Right now, I think (I eye-balled it with a tape measure) I have about 5 to 5 1/2 inches to work with. I have read some subs which are 3 3/4" (I assume this is behind the mount), which would be just about right. I will have to cut into or replace the stock lid, which is ok with me. I may have to swap out the lock-bolt for the spare, too, that would give me another inch or so. I am planning on going further when I get my tax returns. In the meantime, if anyone has some experience, pics or ideas...lay 'em on me. ~J

I work in a cabinet shop, so I can basically make whatever I need as far as amp mounts and enclosures. I use my cargo area and live in a shady part of town, so I want to keep my system hidden. I thought I might replace the lift lid and tray over the spare tire with a sealed enclosure on the bottom-side of a panel taking the place of the lid (the tray would be removed) with the carpet attached to the new lid to look stock. There isn't much depth to work with, but I think I can get an 8" to fit. If that doesn't work, possibly in the right side (looking into the cargo area from the rear) compartment, behind the plastic panel and door there. Has anyone done this or seen it done? If it is seen by one of the local thugs, it will be gone, so it HAS to look non-existent. The amp I will probably mount under the front seat, which raises another possibility of putting the sub under a front seat. Thanks! ~J

Ok, I did a search, but didn't find what I am looking for. My g/f's 2000 outback is collecting water in the rear of the car. I found a drain in the rear compartment on the driver's side and cleaned it out as best I could. I read that there are four such drains, but I can't find them. Also the water seems to be sloshing around under the driver's side doors. Any ideas? ~J

Ok, turns out to be a wheel bearing, which is good news as I was worried about the transmission. Thanks for the help! It really helped out. I can't believe how quiet the car is now! ~J

I have noticed that when I took the fuse out, the noise didn't diminish. Maybe it was my hope that the noise was less, but I think it really did get quieter when I put the fuse it. When I took it out, it stayed at the same level as when the fuse was in. What is a good wayo to check the bearings? Shake the wheel? ~J

Yes, I noticed that when I brake, it really quiets down. ~J