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Sube dude

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About Sube dude

  • Birthday 04/01/1950

Profile Information

  • Location
    Western Canada
  • Interests
    Motor racing, canoeing
  • Occupation
    Semi-retired
  • Biography
    My only road cars have been Subarus since the early nineties. I've worn out a GL, tried to wear out a Loyale (400 k miles) and am now driving a one time previously owned Legacy.
  • Vehicles
    Legacy, Loyale & GL

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  1. I hope you meant 100 k miles! My two retired subes have about 400 k miles on them. The Loyale needed a replacement shaft at about 300 k miles and as far as I know the GL's is original. My Leggy 5SM is presently in a shop awaiting a transplant since the front universal bearing gave up at a mere 240 K miles. :-\ It caused a low speed vibration and a definite "clunk" when I let the clutch out in reverse. I do know there are two types of drive shafts fitted to the Leggy and I'm told they are not interchangable. Cheers.
  2. Did you replace the fuel filter with the pump? Does the "Check engine lite" come on? Fuel may be blocked at the filter. The previous (one and only) owner of my '95 Leggy never changed the filter - it quit after about ten years and 160 k miles! You might say he was oblivious to things automotive. HTH.
  3. Right on! I'm half way there with my '95 Leggy 2.2 (300 k. km.) I hope to make it 500 k. km.+ It's a second owner unit, mostly highway driven with no rust or collison damage. I've put on 60k. km. in the past year since I began driving it. This time I did have the O/P changed @ 250 km. My '91 Loyale has 600 k. km. on the odo but it got there with a transplant. I didn't know about replacing the oil pump and the original 1.8 L motor calfed at 400 k. km. :~( The transplanted engine is awaiting a head gasket job - a pin hole leak on a heater hose caused it to overheat resulting in the gasket failure. My son plans to drive it once we get the heads done. My '86 GL did close to 600 k. km. on the original engine before the body rusted away. They do seem to be tough cars!
  4. A decent auto electric shop might be able to repair it. It might just be the brushes are worn out. My '91 600 k km+ Loyale's alternator is original except for new brushes. Ditto the starter, the fuel pump, wiper motor and most of the electrical bits - go figure! The only bit I've replaced is the heater fan (gets a lot of use at -40 degrees!) Cheers.
  5. Given its' age, I'd throw in a new oil pump while the front of the engine is accessible. I'm told by a very experienced Sube wrench that the '95 & '96 EJ22 has a poor oil pump with similarily poor longevity. Mine expired at +/- 150 k mi. FWIW, I'd use a new OEM OP, not aftermarket one. HTH.
  6. Well, it's just nicely broken in then. I'd venture to say - "You done good!" My '95 had about the same mileage last year when I bought it. I'd suggest you get the oil pressure checked out - the oil pumps are less than wonderful in these. I ended up having mine replaced along with one blank of lifters at about 155k mi. If there's any top engine tapping, clicking, etc., I'd do it right away. I'd also reccomend you stick to 3k mi/3 month oil changes. Other than the OP, mine has 280k km on virtually all original parts other than the normal belts, seals, brake pads, etc. It was a one owner, mainly highway driven canoe transporter for ten years. I too use it mainly for long distances due to living in the hinterland. HTH.
  7. Are the cam (timing) belts original? They're overdue if they are. I think 60k mi. is what's suggested. What about the ALT/PSP/AC belt? The fuel filter might be long in the tooth. I'm not sure why you'd change the WP but you may want to change the coolant if it's getting old - the inhibitors may be used up. Not a good thing in an aluminum engine. HTH. Cheers.
  8. If it's a manual Transmission, take the inspection cover off the top of the bell housing and jam a wide chisel or something similar between the ring gear and the housing. If you've got some help, have the person hold it in place and torque away. A little crude but it works. HTH.
  9. I've been waiting for someone to post this problem. My '95 does the same thing as noted in the original thread. It seems to be nosiest when you first drive away but the noise comes back when you back off the thottle. I suspected something in the rear AWD system (which I don't much about as my GL was FWD and my Loyale has the mechanical/selectable AWD system but the previous post here has me thinking it might be in a bearing of some sort back there. I had a shop check out the driveline on a hoist and road test it but they didn't come up with the cause. There's 275k km. (~170k mi.) on it, mostly highway driving. I suspect all the bearings are original. Any feedback would be appreciated. Cheers.
  10. I've wondered about the revs too. My very basic Brighton has no tach but it does seem pull a lot of revs at 100 km/hr in 5th gear. My Loyale 5 spd. pulled about 3100 at 100 km/hr which seems high to me. I don't think taller gearing is available for either of them. The power loss might be due to a partially clogged fuel filter. My '95 Legacy was pretty gutless until I changed it out. I runs much better now that it's not half starved. HTH.
  11. I'm not going to guess if she'll hang together or not. I'd jack up the LF wheel and check for play in the bearings. Push/pull the wheel and tire side to side and top to bottom. If there's any movement in the wheel bearing hub (not the steering tie rod or lower ball joint) that will confirm it's the bearings. The drive axle nut may have come loose. It's supposed to have a split pin through it and torqued to about 150 ft.lb. It can happen that the nut will wear/work itself loose and cause play in the bearings. Good luck. HTH.
  12. I suspect it's from the hub carrier, not the CVJ boot. With the front bearings (there's two per wheel) adrift, the grease has leaked out and the centrifugal force has thrown on the inside of the wheel. If the drive axle and/or the hub carrier is not ratched, I think you'll find the bearings and seals (again two) not that pricey. The rear bearings were much more expensive as I recall. HTH.
  13. Check the seal on the metal coolant pipe that's between the one rad hose (driver's side [LHD]) and the the front of the engine at the water pump. I've had a leak there in the past. HTH.
  14. I don't know what the Factory reccomends or doesn't, but my "go-to" Sube guy who's worked on this marque forever tells me to run Non/Syn 10-40 in the summer and 5/10-30 in the winter. HTH.
  15. Thanks, I thought so. However, I was hoping for a different answer!
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