michaelbteam

In Salt Lake City: CV Axle Express sells a rebuilt [in house] OEM axle for $65. They have a good reputation and good service. They'll rebuild yours same day.

I have replaced headlight bulbs on both sides now, on a 2010 Outback. The frame covers the cap over the bulb, and even with the fender liner removed it is a contortionist move with a skinny arm to remove the bulb, and you can't see what you're doing. Getting the new bulb positioned in the socket correctly, and securing the wire clip is another challenge. Getting the cap back in position is even more fun. On the driver's side I removed the battery for just a little better access to the cap, and I cut a hole in the fender liner and installed a marine port with cover to avoid removing the liner in the future. On the passenger side I removed the air intake pieces and was able with advanced contortion to somehow complete the removal/replacement process with three fingers of my right hand, after many patient attempts. Next time I will install a port on that side but access is still limited. Training a small child with skinny arms might be the answer. Somewhere there is a sadistic engineer chuckling in his sleep every time he thinks of his creation. If I had known about this beforehand, I would avoid this car simply because of this terrible design flaw.

Head gaskets for sure, IMO. I had a 99 with the same elusive issue, intermittent, and could not duplicate it in a radiator shop under continuous load. But it would happen driving 20 miles up a canyon or under continuous freeway driving. Maddening! My understanding is that exhaust gases were leaking internally into the coolant, superheating and pushing out the overflow. So I made the 20 minute drive up the canyon every morning, watching temp slowly rise at the end of the drive. And every night I would empty the overflow back into the radiator and drive home with no problem. I did not want to invest in that 200K car so finally sold it cheaply with full disclosure, which the previous seller had NOT done with me. Bad car karma. Good luck!

Fairtax, I'm sure you're right. I think I started and stopped engine for a few seconds at a time to get more to drain. Probably just got lucky, will use the "cooler line flush" this time.

I drained the AT fluid on my 93 Legacy, and then started the car just long enough [less than a minute] to encourage the remaining fluid to drain out. This was an experiment of sorts based on "advice" I had received. Anyway, almost the entire 8.8 quart capacity drained, and I changed the filter and filled the tranny with synthetic fluid and never had any problem with the transmission: this was a few years ago. Did I just get lucky? Does this actually make any sense to the Gurus on board? I was thinking of doing it again on a 2003 LL Bean.

I've never paid more than $150 tops with Techniglass. And it's fully breakage warrantied for a year, with lifetime free rock chip repair. After I found them I stopped looking for "deals."

So--If my local Subie shop charged almost $400 for one wheel bearing--sounds like a decent price to avoid all that aggravation??

Thank you. You mean I might not be done yet??

A few weeks back I asked a question about a horrendous apparent MT transmission noise on a 96 Outback, don't know where the thread went. ANYWAY--with the car on jackstands and wheels turning, I put the stethoscope everywhere and was convinced I had a trans problem, maybe input shaft bearing. Was ready to replace the trans, and finally went to my local shop where they instantly [to my chagrin] diagnosed a bad left front wheel bearing. They were right, $400 later. I've been fooled before--you can't do the listening by yourself AND advance the throttle [can you?] to vary the noise and pinpoint the problem.

I bought a 99 Outback a few years ago with a very elusive HG leak--would only leak [into the coolant] under heavy load. Radiator shop tested it for 30 minutes and could not get it to leak. ANYWAY--I used it all winter to commute 20 miles uphill from SLC to Snowbird, 3000 vertical. The overflow would be full when I got there, and at the end of my work day I would empty the overflow back into the radiator and drive home--no issues going downhill. I did this for two months and sold it cheap with full disclosure and bought another 2.2 Subie. Buyer beware on 2.5's--HG problems can be well disguised!

Thanks. Not sure if I have it in me, could be a good deal for someone if that's all it is.

I recently acquired a desirable 96 Outback with 2.2, and manual trans, which is making a horrendous noise most evident where the axles join the trans, increases with wheel speed. I drained the trans expecting debris but there were no particles in oil although it was dirty. The axles are fairly new. Any advice would be appreciated--it appears to need tranny work for sure. If anyone in Salt Lake City is interested I will probably pass this on for about 2K [firm] since I found another car. Engine runs perfect, [130K miles], has cold A/C, heated seats, many new parts, and very straight [red] rust free body. Will be advertising this locally soon.

I received my KYBs from APW [by Fed Ex] today five days after ordering. Don't mind waiting a few days when shipping is free! Also--the [black] Excel G is the same as the [silver] GR2. They say the change is to match most black OEM shocks. [?] I liked the silver.

Just paid $67 each for KYB's [Excel G] from Auto Parts Warehouse, including shipping.

Sounds like alot of money considering what it needs by the time you replace pump, belt, pulleys, etc. How about CV joints, wheel bearings, etc. Sounds like it may not have had any recent attention so there may be other issues. Clutch? Last year in SLC I paid $2000 for a nice 96 Outback 2.2 manual with new clutch and TB, 180K miles. Running strong. Also bought 97 Outback [2.5] with rebuilt trans, new head gaskets and timing belt for $1800. Maybe make lower offer or wait for better car for a little more money?