labatt13

Last night Iw as thinking if I had the money I would of went and purchased an XT parts car for parts, a legacy for parts and who knows what else just for building one bad ars car. It never hurts if your a project maniac like me. Always tinkering.

I am the same way I was just trying to get the job in before my money got here. I havn't cracked them open yet either. Also DO you know if I have to open the drum to bled them or is the fitting outside on the rear? FOrgive me I never done drums before. Going off topic hows your mayor?

So now that I did my front brakes last week I will be doing my shoes this weekend. Can you believe they charged me a core charge on shoes! The guy said these older cars they recycle the metal! I hope they used good glue on the ones I purchased. Ok so all I purchased was shoes. They have some brake shoe hardware kit as well I didn't buy. I never did shoes so my biggest guess would be springs and whatelse? So if my parts are still holding my old shoes intact can I get away of not changing all the springs,etc? Or are there some parts that have to be replaced each time? Darn need a socket for the hub! Autozone wanted 16 bucks for a 36mm socket! Believe that!? Thanks

Ah never though of that. DId you do this? Any pics?

I was looking at these studded Nokians and was curious to main things about them. 1) What material are the studs made from? 2) Will the studs be worn out very fast as they see pavement? I have been trying to pick a snow tire and have been attracted to max grip in snow and ice but concerned with the studs just getting grinded down whenever they see tar. Also the 82 GL I have came with two different branded tires and was concerned it was the proper stock tire size. I want to enter TSD rallies and will need my speedo working exact. Does anyone know how much a speedo is affected by so a 70 side wall versus 80 versus 85? I was thinking 5 mm is very small and figure tread wear can be a few mm which would affect speedo just the same, Please give me input.

I was looking on rallylights.com and at 17 bucks a piece I could pas. SO than I look on ebay for urethan sheets and its more expensive per square foot. Is there an alternative material or source? I just assumed going and buying trucker mud flaps and cutting them up but they have goofy prints or designs groved in them. So any ideas? Anyone have pics of their mud flaps after install?

how far is it from you 75subie?

congrats! I would buy you the sticker but they are 8 buckeroos! Maybe we can go in on it

Chim How do you like that location for lighting? I always thought it would help light up the sides very well. Also always see it on safari rally preped cars.

I was just reading some rally school site and saw this: So I was thinking ok if you lost traction lk en the case above and the potential was there to regain traction via acceleration. At what torque do you want going to the wheels? After reading above I was think bare minimum. So would I be correct in say if at the time of traction loss you were in 2nd gear at 30mph at say 2800 rpm would you want to shift into 4th before acceleration to attempt to regain traction?

Whats EA81 and 82 bolt size/pattern? Also is there a gallery showing all the old wheels available for older subarus from the factory? Whats the stock offset and max range for aftermarket? Sorry not to hi-jack the thread.

I have a set of the wheels you orig posted about. If you don't get 75subie's contact me.

What years did that carb come on? If someone has a Hitachi as well maybe they would snal a few pics and post to compare where the lines are installed. Also the line that is giving you problems what does it plug into on the other end? I am not sure the carbon mine but it looks the same. Does anyone have apic of the other carb Subaru ran?

waimacks- When was that filmed? The reason I ask I noticed the battery with the water caps. I have not seen those anywhere forsale in a long time. Good vids! Found a short water drive through with a GL http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8555405249636186814&q=subaru+gl

First I am curious how many have done this and your method and results. The original thread was great but no one followed up with experience. I heard of using a vacuum line and letting your engine suck up some ATF in the past to clear minor deposits but I got interested when reading the ATF flush with the engine. I saw one post of someone concerned it would clog the oil filter and the dropping gunk going to the bearings. So I was thinking since I don't know th history of my new purchase of the 82 GL that I will do this in segments. My first Oil Change Add 1 quart ATF Dexron III Idle at 15 minutes. Than drain Second Oil Change Drain all Oil add two quarts ATF add two quarts of oil idle for 20 minutes third oil change Drain all oil add 3 quarts of ATF add one quart oil drive for 10 minutes (low speeds) drain I just figured it would be much more safe this way plus getting the full benefits. I am unfamilar if I will gain all benefits from just adding one quart and let idle or not. I would like to hear your thoughts if I am just doing an overkill.