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newsoobdude

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About newsoobdude

  • Rank
    Subaru Nut
  • Birthday 06/30/1980

Profile Information

  • Location
    helL A/ NorCal Foothills
  • Interests
    anything with and engine and tires
  • Biography
    I eat, breath, and sleep cars
  • Vehicles
    EAs aplenty and 2 EJs
  1. JEBUS!!! This is gonna be awsome! DEFINATELY gonna need the D/r. That or loose the 3rd pedal . 28" Tires with an EL headered EJ25 does not climb anything in low RPS. That is the ONE thing lacking in my Outback and I don't have the funds to get one shipped from Down Under and want to keep the AWD aspect so no EA82 5spd swap either.
  2. newsoobdude

    EJ 18 Questions

    Been a long while USMB. Good to be back in the Pancake World again. Posted this in the Newer Subie Section as well as the last time I visited this sub section did not exist that I noticed. Picking up an EJ18 for my 82 BRAT today and want to know what to check for and change out (1) before firing up since its been sitting for a few years and (2) what should I address while out before dropping into my BRAT? I am gonna change the fluids and WD the cylinders and hand turn a few times before intitial firing but what else should I address? Any help appreciated and good to be back
  3. Long time no visit USMB!!! Bee away for a while but trying to get back in on the Subie fun. Picking up a 95 with an EJ18 that has been sitting for a few years and am wondering what I should check for before firing it up. Im gonna change the fluids and am not worried about ANYTHING other than the motor (being put into my 82 BRAT ). But just wondering what I should check before putting into 82 and firing up). I know its a "stupid question" but every engine style is different and have their quirks and figured I'd ask the ones with the specific knowledge and experience. Any help would be appreciated and its nice to be back in the Subie world.
  4. newsoobdude

    Another BRAT to the collection

    So I did a compression test and found out the #4 cylinder was down on compression so I pulled the engine and replaced it with the one from my 86. Still didn't want to run right so I decided to put a Weber on it and now the rpms race at start up after back firing a couple times through the carb itself. Now what? Tried searching but didn't find anything useful in the couple searches I tried. Any help would be appreciated as I'm about to give up and give it to a mechanic to play with even though I cannot afford it.
  5. Just trying to figure out what manual transmissions interchange with my Legacy. Most Subies in my neck of the woods are autocrapics so wondering what years Impezas, Foresters, Leagacies manual transmissions interchange without modification.
  6. Doing a Weber swap on my 82 BRAT and getting ready to take it for a drive soon. Waiting on the IM gaskets from Subie to show up to I can reinstall the IM after pulling all the extra hard lines off. Then it's time for a frame install if all goes well .
  7. I've got a 98 Outback and one of the best improvements I did was the snorkus delete. It's free and lets the car pull all the way to red line instead of falling on it's face around 3500. All you do is pull the contraption in the inner fender well of the passenger side that all the fresh air comes in from. Another is OBX Equal Length headers. I'm running 28 inch tires under my Outback and it has more power know than before I lifted it and put the bigger tires. Wish I had done it before the lift so I could have played in the corners beforehand. Grimmspeed made intake manifold spacers to keep the intake cooler and they also offer a thermal coating (I don't have yet). Group A did a throttle body spacer but are no longer produced but someone else might be. You can get a cold air intake off e-bay for an Imprza RS and cut it down to fit also. Other than that you are looking at cams from Delta and some port and light polishing work. IF I remember right, Delta can redo your heads and improved cams and porting all for a great price and all you have to do is re-bolt the heads on, no cam lash adjusting or any of that stuff.
  8. wondering were you got ur bumper? looking for one for my 96 impreza

  9. Got the rack replaced and dealt with more fun (see my other thread) but finally got her ready for an alignment and will deal with the radio drain another day.
  10. Alright so I replaced the starter with yet another one from the 'Zone and ran the + Cable to the post and the solenoid wire (the only 2 wires that were connected since I know of [didn't remove a 3rd that I can recall and I haven't gotten all goobered up recently soo.....idk]) and ran a nice fat cable from the upper bolt to the battery and went to start it. Fired right up!!! :headbang: Went to go tighten the battery up and realized I forgot to hook the ground up soo, idk again, but, ran it to the battery anyways since it was long enough. It's off to the alignment shop via flatbed and I finally moved the steering wheel over a tooth to straighten it out .
  11. Jarl, there was only two wires going to the starter, a heavy gauge from the positive side of the battery terminal and one smaller (12g?) that came from the firewall and had a spade connector end on it. Both OEM or quality replacement (think I replaced positive cable couple years back but not sure and not important). No other wires to or from the starter so you got me there..... Don't recall ever seeing a starter with 3 wires but it's been long while since I've changed out a starter and this 98 Outback is the newest car I've really worked on. Also don't have good access to a computer as my lap top top a dump on me again and I gotta get that fixed too Suba9792, OEM? And if do, what gauge should it be and where does it connect on the block? 1 Lucky Texan, unfortunately I don't have any good friends local nor are my neighbors able to help and I also pulled the starter out so I can replace it with the new one when it comes in on Thurs. That and the alignment is all buggered up and loose as I'm getting it flat-bedded to the alignment shop once it runs again as it has a new rack under it now (one of the reasons it was down for so long was getting the funds and time to take care of that). Looks like it will have to wait til I get back from the ranch this weekend:(.
  12. So my 98 Outback has been down for a while now trying to get fixed. Replaced my steering rack after a few weeks of waiting for funds and then the car would not start. Replaced the alternator as previously mentioned in another post. Also replaced my battery and starter due to both being dead. Now the car cranks over twice and NOTHING more. Better than the nothing before. Mind you when it comes to electrical work I release the smoke from the wires so I don't play unless I have to. Went to replace my e-bay special grounding kit but do not remember what all grounds were originally on the car before. I have the ground from the battery going to the body but, is there any place else that I need to ground? One guy said my re-manned starter is no good and to replace it with yet another one . Of course being in LA there are no Outbacks or anything to look at to compare and I really don't have the money to be dumping into this to guess what it could be. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated. I did have an FSM but my computer crashed and took it with it and the Chiltons/ Haynes are special order for Subarus in LA.
  13. Where abouts in LA? There is one is Chatsworth that I know of but never dealt with them or anyone else locally. Check nasioc and see what they say as they have an LA area and deal mainly in Impreza's/ WRXs.
  14. newsoobdude

    intake and exhaust sizing question

    I have a 2.5 and am running a 2 1/4" exhaust. Will be going down to a 2 inch pipe after an EL Header swap down the road. 2 1/4" Exhaust flows nice and runs great but I don't have low end torque. I should have gone 2" . I don't know if Grimmspeed is still making manifold spacers for the 22 but they sure are nice to have if you have the extra 10mm of space above (haven't done nor seen an EJ swap yet that wasn't lifted). I know 1 7/8 pipe is good for an EA but not sure on the EJ and didn't keep the OEM exhaust nor measure it when I replaced it.
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