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dacecil

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    I Love My Subaru

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  1. Thanks sounds like the new boot or the OEM full axle is the way to go. Dale
  2. Where can I find CV boots for a 92 Legacy AWD 5sp. I need both inner and outer, passenger side. The parts catalog at O'reilly's only shows the outer. I need both. Thanks Dale
  3. I am interested in purchasing a 91ish Legacy Sedan AWD Turbo A/T. Which Gen is this? I prefer the newer years of that gen that don't have the automatic seat belts. Where do you guys go to find these cars and how likely am I to find the exact one like that I want? I live in Colorado which is Subaru country, but never see the one I am interested in. Lots of n/a wagons. No turbo sedans. Dale
  4. Cool, thanks Porcupine. That's probably where my problem started, doing it in "D". Dale
  5. So, then where do I get the solenoid and clutch packs? Is this a DIY job for an average mechanic like me? Thanks
  6. I recently purchased a 91 Legacy L AWD Automatic. It has what appears to be a pretty common problem-torque bind. It has 226k miles. So, I have been reading on this forum and posting. You folks have been a great help. Anyway, I decided to SeaFoam the trans and change the fluid to see if that helped the problem. I have a Chilton's manual and it said the fluid capacity was 8.8 qts. I drained the pan and also disconnected the cooler lines from the remote filter and drained the torque converter by starting the car and putting it in drive while the hoses were disconnected. BTW, for those who haven't done this, don't do this alone. The fluid went everywhere. Then, like a good pupil, I refilled the trans with approximately 8.8 qts of Dexron III as per the manual. 2 Gallons of WalMart fluid plus the majority of another quart. Of course then, the dipstick read WAY high. Then, I looked in the owner's manual and it confirmed the 8.8 qt capacity. But then, it goes on to say that when servicing, you will only add 2.6 to 3.2 quarts. What kind of trans service is this where 63% of the old fluid stays in the transmission? How do I get it ALL out? Anyway, naturally, the trans acted really weird with that huge overfill, so I have drained out the fluid again and am reservicing it. Even at WalMart fluid prices, this is getting expensive. I need help to tell me what I am missing here. Thanks, Dale
  7. Ok, cool. How do I retrieve the codes? And where do I find a list of their meaning? Dale
  8. I'll do that, change the fluid and bang on it some. Actually, I don't remember if it stil binds with the FWD fuse in. I don't think it does however. I was concentrating on isolating my noise when I was doing that. Now, the car is up on jack stands so I need to lower it and drive it to see about the binding with the fuse in.
  9. Yes, the power light flashes when I start the car, and it does have torque bind. The FWD light does come on when I put in the fuse. However, based upon the owner's manual, the flashing of the power light is normal unless it goes beyond 12 seconds or something like that. (I don't have the manual in front of me). Thanks Dale
  10. Even after I install the fuse in the FWD receptacle, the rear wheels on my 92 Legacy AWD automatic turn. I have the car up on 4 jack stands and even with the fuse installed, the rear wheels turn. I have tried putting on the park brake, but even then, it has difficulty stopping the rear wheels. Does this indicate a problem in the 4WD system? The reason I am going through this exercise is a mettalic clanging noise coming from somewhere in the drivetrain. I am trying to eliminate the driveshaft and or carrier bearing as the source by disabling the rear wheels. I also think it might be coming from the DOJ on the right side. I am planning to pull that axle and inspect that as soon as I get a 32mm socket. I went to Sears yesterday to buy one, but of course it was out of stock. Thanks Dale
  11. I was reading in the book about removing the axle from my 91 Legacy L AWD automatic trans. It said to use a "special tool" to remove a pin from the axle in order to get it out of the transaxle. What is this tool? Also, what size is the nut that holds the hub on? Thanks Dale
  12. John, Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try to describe the noise as best I can. At first I thought it might be a heat shield noise, but I don't see it. It is definitely metal on metal, it is speed related. The faster you go, the more prevalent it is. You can cause it to go away momentarily by feathering the throttle, but not completely. When I was in FWD mode, it was still there. It sounds like it is coming from the engine compartment underneath to the the transmission and driveshaft. What else can I say. At first it had the sound of a pulley that was not secured to its shaft. It also kind of sounds like the noise you get when you take a metal wheel cover and spin it on a concrete floor. As it gets closer to the floor, it makes a sound kind of like a cymbal. That's the best I can do right now. Dale
  13. Hello all, my name is Dale and I live in Colorado. I just purchased a new 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon 4WD automatic. It has 225k miles but is in pretty good shape. I recently noticed a metallic rattle or clanging sound coming from under the vehicle at highway speeds. I think I have traced it to the driveshaft area and the carrier bearing. However, the shaft does not appear to have excessive play, nor is the boot on the bearing torn. Can I safely drive this vehicle on a long road trip with the FWD fuse installed? BTW, I tried this today for diagnostic purposes, and the noise was still there. Does that eliminated the driveshaft as the culprit? I know that's a lot for one post, but I need help fast. Thanks Dale
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