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glkiller

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  • Location
    Lapine
  • Interests
    subs, dirt bikes, stereos
  • Occupation
    Granite Fabricator with CNC
  • Biography
    Short dork:)
  • Vehicles
    83GL EA81, 92 Legacy

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  1. OH HEEEEY 1 more thing... Your secondary throttle on an ea81 hitachi carb is activated by vacuum, if you have a major leak it won't work turning your car into a 1 barrel. I say this mostly for iceracer. plug all the stuff and check this out, I've done it and it works great! At first I had a problem with it sticking open but a small adjustment to the .02$ wire fixed that. (it would flood and be hard to start) But if in question check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49976&highlight=secondary If you remove the secondary diaphram like I did be sure to seal the hole or you'll make a vac leak.
  2. now that's a cool car! I found somewhere in here a pic a guy took of his ea81 that had all lines plugged and I run that way now too. Like mentioned before though, it won't give you more power just eliminate any vacuum leaks from your 25 year old emission system. On a newer fuel injected system there is almost nothing that you should plug off, even the egr, leave it alone if you want it to last. BUT on the ea81 THE ONLY LINES YOU REALLY NEED ARE THE FOLLOWING Cabin vacuum- for the heater controls, long vac line out of the firewall, can't miss it. PCV Valve- anyone who tells you you don't need this is a blubbering boob. Brake vacuum hose- brakes are no fun to use without SOME help Distributor vacuum advance- tells your ignition timing to advance when engine is under a load = more power. I connect this to above throttle port vacuum left side tube, bypassing the thermo vacuum switch wich switches the vacuum from manifold when cold to above throttle when warm (just another connection and part that can and does go bad. I've been running like this for awhile now, doin great. TAKE SPECIAL CARE IF PLUGGING EGR THAT YOU GET IT TOTALLY PLUGGED and be aware that by design the egr system is supposed to cool your valves and reduce emmisions old cars carbed, plug away FI- don't be ridiculous Balky......
  3. That's awesome! It could be a plot to pollute the water supply with oil u know:dead:
  4. 83 gl ea81 exhaust rotted off I let it go for awhile... before winter I fixed it cheaply of course, but did a good job, too good... Now I can hear a rod knock, and a baaaaad valve tick, AND toasted front wheel bearings (both sides), AAAAND knocking bad left halfshaft. and yes there's even more... if I hadn't fixed the exhaust, I would have never heard all this, (sob) bear in mind that all these problems are well earned for this car, every workday yearround this car goes down a 1 mile heavily used dirt road, (3 feet of snow this year has been fun) up into Newberry Caulderra about 7500ft from 4500ft, (did I mention the snow?) and back daily. It earns the love it needs. A few times recently this suby plows the trail of fresh powder 1 ft plus deep, passing the stuck large trucks with wide tires, one day passing 6 stuck cars, the last being a truck with a snowmobile trailer turning around, as she passed he said "You won't make it!" the car pushed over the last ruts of the trucks and kept on going...(imagine that) this car is adjusted for max clearance but otherwise stock... It runs great thanks in large part to this forum and it's great members helping me master the vacuum crap. Thank you all!!!
  5. good call on the lug nut, my wife had a wheel fall off after a certain large tire shop changed the tires. if the noise changes very dramatically like that it prob is lug nut. I find most thunks are axles, and most grinds are bearings though if those lugs are tight.
  6. GD called it pressure plate had a rust outline of the clutchplate after I PRIED it off. Clutchplate was also stuck to the flywheel. Clutch looks pretty thin, so I'll throw another one at it. good call gd laterz...
  7. Good to see you here still GD. I'm hesitant to take the pp off the clutch splines look wet and possibly a bit rusty, the input shaft and the bell housing werew pretty gunked up, (I've been busy) but you are right I should at least take off the pp and check things out further.
  8. Hi All! So check this one out, I have a 1983 GL 4WD Wagon that everyone here has helped me keep alive and actually get the motor to kick a little butt again, thanks much. But today a new gremlin is visiting. My wife drove the car wich was acting normal down our road and went through a 2 FOOT deep mud puddle on my nasty road. Went through twice and came home and parked the car with no problem about a 1.5 mile trip. The next day she tries to leave and the car won't go into gear with the engine running but it will when it's shut off and feels fine. We always park the cars in neutral. So I put it in gear and press the clutch and try to start the car. It lurches forward like the clutch isn't engaging. At this point I came in the house and searched the forum for a problem like this and found several good threads. I thought maybe the pilot bearing had seized and sure enough I found a thread to agree with me :)hehe. I put the clutch in this car when I bought it about 5 years ago, it has never had any problem until this all the sudden. I had my wife push the clutch while I watched the arm move, tried to adjust the cable, and so on eliminating the obvious broken or slack cable, there is no noise, all sounds are perfectly normal. SOOOOOOO thanks for your patience.... I rented an engine hoist and pulled the engine out and I found that the pilot bearing feels very good by sticking my finger through and turns with no effort at all hmmmmm.... I have not yet pulled the pressure plate as everything seems to work ok. BUUUTTTT!!! There are signs that it may have had alot of water in the bell area with the clutch and there is NO grease or lubrication on the splined shaft. So the only theory I have left is that the clutch disc simply wouldn't slide on the spline shaft. Wich means ALL I have to do is clean and lube that shaft and trow it all back together (basically) and it would work. My question is should I take no chances and just replace the clutch or am I right and I just lube everything back up after my mud puddle clutch washing episode? THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!! Update: I pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket and found mucho metal... looks like a bushing ripped and twisted in half metal chunks stuck in the oil intake screen thank god it's got a screen:) to be continued...
  9. thanks GD! So I should just return the pos beck disty and get my old one fixed up eh? Bummer as the countdown to snow is on... But I will do as I should and stop fighting this darn thing... Thanks for the link and all the help!!!!
  10. I would like to hear what the Junkie and GD think of this, they seem to have done it all... Thank you for your replies!!! From what I've read the ACV actually just puts fresh air in the exaust so I think I can eliminate that. My exhaust is shot and has been backfiring for awhile now, haven't done the quarter trick yet, (but oh I will) Anyone got an extra EGR cover? Aluminum near the Central oregon area? No question= no answer right? I can buck up for some metal if i have too:)
  11. From what I've read here, esp by General Disorder, going straight to the carb does very little harm, only advers during warm up. so I'm going with that, might just strip the whole intake of all stuff like that save fuel in out disty advance and MAYBE the Air control valve, if it's used in altitude compensation.
  12. That thermo vacuum valve to the right of the carb that ties into the hard lines, giving it manifold vac at certain temps and ported vac at others (vice-versa?) Something like that? I' want rid of all things not needed and am working on stripping all crap from engine compartment.
  13. I have that power steering belt by my disty, will have to get hoses and a connector out away from there to do that test, could a bad vacuum valve cause vac advance vacuum to fail? It prob is the wrong disty or something stupid like that but they look identical, hmmm. Thanks for the quick reply!!!!!
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