dfoyl

That's at the upper end of a WRX EJ257 can handle, above that you'd be going to a brand X engine and a whole new drivetrain to support it. By which stage there isn't much BRAT left... Why 300whp though ? A BRAT is a light-weight vehicle, and even half that power will be enough to make the vehicle fairly twitchy.

I have a brand new one for retail cost of $75 AUD (about $49 USD) + shipping. I'm stateside from Sunday and could post if you're interested. Message me if interested.

That's Aussie dollars though Bennie, and that would be a very clean example - most are still $4-5k. In US dollars it's closer to $6k for $8-10k AUS, and $3-4k US for a decent daily driver.

The rear caliper comes in 2 size pistons - I can't recall the sizes from memory - and only one of the two sizes is readily available. The other has been sold out for some time. There are a few remanufactured options available but I have found they are poorly rebuilt using piston boots that don't fit, bleeder valves that are way too big, and no rust protection other than a coat of paint. Measure the OD of your piston, and I'll see if I can find the links I had.

You can still buy them new from the dealership, quote part numbers 784910670 (LH) & 784910660 (RH). If they're more than $60 US each, you're being ripped off. They are ex-Japan, if the dealership says they're not available they're not trying hard enough.

I believe an early Impreza auto box will yield the correct tail shaft length Bennie ? That may be Brumby/BRAT specific though, not L-series.

I would love to see evidence that a single or twin barrel carb can get the same performance as a MPFI setup. Carb vs SPFI I'd agree, MPFI I doubt very much. Even Subaru's own EA82 shows a marked improvement from carb to MPFI (9kW, minus what was gained from increasing the C/R).

You'd be surprised Jono, it's more that Australian powder coaters only support a small range - they start the week with white, and end it with black. Dulux list 4800 different colours for powder coat. Prismatic in the US offer 6500. I'd suggest asking your coater which brand they use, and if you have a wheel with some original gold left, see if they have it or can get it (and what the cost will be if they have to buy stock).

Bennie is the gearbox master here for what you are looking for. You need an early EJ box and your L-series, plus Bennie-level skills to put it together.

Bennie, by phase 2 I assume you're referring to the engine - ie. an EJ202 instead of a EJ20J (for example) ? Which is anything post 1999 up to an unknown date. So, a phase 2 EJ box will take the L-series 5 speed bits to make your bitza box. Have you tried an EA (standard 5 speed L series non-AWD) box (which is what our Floridian friend is trying to achieve), and added a phase 1 (1989-1997) EJ gearset to the rest of the EA box ? Assuming it all fits, what parts are required from the EJ phase 1 box ? (it would have to be cheaper than sending an entire box o/s ?). Thanks! Dean.

Those look very similar to EA82 rear hubs. I can't tell from the angle, but the EA82 might be a bit wider.

I was aware the EA82 oil pump was NLA, I don't believe the EA81 is ? If someone has a part number I can confirm.

The VIN is engraved/stamped on the flat on the lower vertical corner of the bellhousing. Right side.

$200 for a FT4wd box all day ? Gimme!

The clips are one of those parts getting harder to find, you'll almost certainly break a couple taking the door trim off (the short pieces in particular are hard to access, and hence more likely to break). Yell out if you need a spare and can't find a donor MY in your area.