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keppelk

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About keppelk

  • Birthday 07/16/1984

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    keppelk

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  • Location
    Dunedin, New Zealand
  • Biography
    If it wasnt a Subaru.....
  • Vehicles
    '86 Vortex (XT) Turbo AT

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  1. Injectors and the CTS use the same connector. You can find replacement connectors with pigtails on ebay if you search "bosch EV1". I've used these to replace my CTS and would highly recommend it! The EV1 connectors have a much better retainer clip, and are easier to remove without worrying about breaking the plastic.
  2. I had the same thing on an EA82T not long ago. Last bolt to remove the intake manifold the head broke off. I used a long (6ft) digging bar to 'lift' the manifold while I WD40'd and twisted the 'free' manifold round the remaining bolt. WD40 + twist, repeat until enough rust wears away from the the broken off bolt to free the manifold. Once the manifold is off no drama to remove the remaining bolt. Have never worked on an XT6 motor so I have no idea if this would work. Can tell you that it worked well for me. I would have needed a trip to an engineering shop if above hadn't worked. Great shop nearby so a shopping trip is dangerous
  3. XT turbo uses the same under hood edge squirter system. Damn good when it's all setup correctly, but they are all getting old now. Maybe replace the metal 'tab' they are mounted on with something heavier?
  4. So I took the FelPro (NOK, same as Subaru OEM) seal out today. Put a 1.5mm hole in it with a drill then used a hook to remove. Seal was in perfect condition (very unhappy when I realised I'd drilled a hole in a perfect new seal). New Subaru seal wasn't expensive luckily. I installed it with a PVC pipe cap. All went in dead straight this time . Have it mostly in, but am getting an engineer friend to come and help me line it up. With the 0.3mm maximum out-of-squareness the FSM gives I figure I should get it perfect to avoid leaks. Not hard to be out over a 100mm diameter seal by 0.3mm, which might explain some leaks after replacement (no offense intended). Forgot to mention in my original post that the old seal was leaking a lot. The cover plate between bellhousing and transmission was coated with a thick layer of oil+clutch dust goop.
  5. I started putting in a new rear main seal today (Fel-pro, but NOK like the Subaru one). Got the old one out no probs, using a self tapping screw and a claw hammer to pull out. Greased the new one, lined it all up and started pushing just with my fingers. Pushed harder and harder with no movement, until it suddenly gave. One side has gone way in, the other side not so much. I've tried gently tapping my way around the seal with a hammer. Then tried using the old seal as a guide, and tapped on that some more. Can seem to get the 'out' side any further in. And can't think of any non-destructive ways to get the 'in' side back out. Question is should I keep trying to even up the seal by pushing in, or admit that I've cocked up and order a new seal (pull the un-even seal). Any tips much appreciated, as self-taught mechanic and definately still learning.
  6. @rxleone: there are a fex companies who often have JDM front cuts or engines listed on TradeMe. If you were after an engine, I'd ask a question on an auction and see how you go.
  7. My 2c: EA82 head gaskets I've seen Subaru OEM and Fel-Pro permatorques. Both seem to hold as well as each other and appear to be similar quality, but since the Fel-Pro is cheaper and doesn't require retorquing I'll use Fel-Pro. Only gaskets I swear Subaru OEM on are intake manifold gaskets (Fel-pro are just cutout gasket material, where Subaru is a multiple layer metalic gasket), exhaust gaskets (for the same reason), and thermostat gasket (OEM is multi-layer and very different material to the cork or paper aftermarket options). Having said all of this, if a gasket is installed correctly onto a well prepared surface at the correct torques etc, most should seal adequately. No seals last forever without replacement anyway.
  8. Resurecting an old thread because I just stumbled across the MPGuino too. Going through the FSM for my '86 Vortex (XT 4-cyl turbo), I found that the trip computer has a speed pulse line. Since turbos are MPFI I have an injector wire too; so have all the inputs I need (tap injector signal #1 as it comes through the firewall en-route to trunk mounted ECU). Can easily tap into power via the stereo harness (+12V constant and ground). Not sure if there is a speed pulse signal generated in other models without the trip computer? If there is, then no reason you can't use an MPGuino. There is an OBD-II version too, for the younger Subaru.
  9. There are a few different versions of the FSM for 80's Subarus about. I think this one http://pdftown.com/Subaru-EA-82-Service-Manual.html will be what you are looking for.
  10. Awesome how this thread got up to 12 posts before someone spotted 4EAT is electronic! lol Always good to check out the FSMs to see what should be there, rather than what is there Looks like there should just be a short length of hose to allow venting without sucking in crud. IMO should cap any vacuum lines and run a short vent hose similar to the factory setup.
  11. Completely agree with you on all counts. Normal 91 octane (R+M) is US$5.94 per US gallon here already, so change is definitely looking like a good idea. Fuel millage here Subaru R2 type S 2wd: 19.4 km/L = 45.63 miles/gallon Subaru R2 type S awd: 18.6 km/L = 43.75 miles/gallon This model gets best economy. Higher tech engine. Supercharger engine doesn't get Variable Valve Timing. Subaru R2 R 2wd (DOHC 16 valve VVT): 24.5 km/L = 57.62 miles/gallon Subaru R2 R awd (DOHC 16 valve VVT): 22.5 km/L = 52.92 miles/gallon By my reckoning it looks like it won't take long to pay off the purchase vs my '86 XT turbo auto millage! Not a huge step in power either (can take small cuts to save wallet:-\): Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 0.238 kW/kg Jaguar XKR Coupe 0.137 kW/kg Subaru Legacy (gen IV EZ30) 0.108 kW/kg Subaru XT Turbo (auto) 0.072 kW/kg VW Golf (standard model) 0.063 kW/kg Subaru R2 type S awd 0.053 kW/kg
  12. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH3jG-91ZAw JDM crash test video on Youtube for it. Seems to handle it OK. Gets a high-ish rating too. http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.subaru.jp%2Fr2%2Fr2%2Fequipment%2Findex.html&sl=ja&tl=en&hl=EN&ie=UTF-8 Loads of specs at above links. Can click through the menus on the left and it keeps translating them.
  13. I'm looking at getting a 2003-2004. Ballpark cost landed in NZ is $12,000 - $13,000. But that is for the top model (type S). That link is a pretty low non-supercharged, non-AWD model. Quite steep for that model, but 24000km and looks tidy as.
  14. Anyone here know anything about the Subaru R2 (or R1)? Ever driven or ridden in one. Thinking about importing one over here (NZ) from Japan. Would love to get a 660cc supercharger AWD model, which is the type S. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_R2 http://www.subaru.jp/r2/r2/equipment/index.html
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