obskermit

thanks for the replys. I don't really want to pull the engine, but If that is the way to do it I have no choice. Since the clutch is still working okay (still doesn't slip or smell) at the moment i think i'll let it go a little longer since there is so much work involved. my first car was a 1978 mova. changing the clutch took about 2 hours start to finish and it was my first time. Ahhhh the good old days. Since it is so time consuming, I may put off the clutch all together because i plan on trading the '00 in on a newer model in the spring. Hopefully it will last through winter, then it will become the dealer's problem!

I was hoping to not need to pull the engine or drop the tranny. I guess there is no convenient bell housing that can be opened. Oh well. I think this is a hydrolic clutch. I don't think it is just an adjustment. I don't think 114K miles is too out of the question to need a clutch job... do you? also what i assume is the thow out bearing, is making a fairly loud squeeking noise when the clutch is partially engaged under throttle. it goes away when it is fully engaged or dissengaged.

Mine is about to go. '00 impreza outback sport 2.2L 5spd manual. 114K miles, firstclutch. It doesnt engage until about the last inch of pedal travel. now I am trying to avoid the additional $400 in labor to get a shop to do it. How much other stuff do you need to take down to get the clutch out? I have never done it on a trans-axel before. I have access to a full auto shop (a friend's business) I'll have his help, but his shop only works on diesel trucks so he has never done a job like this one either. Trying to decide whether to pay $350 for the parts, or $850 to have the dealership do it.

Well i changed the PCV valve and fuel filter. The PCV was all rusty and gummy so im sure it needed to be changed. From there i noticed an immediate improvement in idle (wasnt bad before but now its very smooth) and it feels a little peppier. We will see in a few weeks if it fixed the oil consumption problem. Thanks for the advice..

THANKS! thanks for the photo. that realy clears thigs up. usually i just buy the part first and then look at the engine to see what it looks like. ha ha.

X2 - Where will I find this? I looked on line at Advance Auto and found them for about $4 i'll probably pick on up on the way home. Will i need any new hoses, or is it easier to remove then that stupid fuel filter!

Sounds good.... Now how do i know if its bad?

I just broke 100K in my 2000 Outback Sport. 2.2L Manual. Still running strong. It consumes quite a bit of oil though. It just magically disappears. There are no drips in my drive way, and the exhaust vapor is pretty clear so it doesn’t appear to be burning it too significantly. ???? If I don’t add any by the end of 3k miles it isn’t even on the dip stick. Any suggestions? Lastly, I know I have a timing belt replacement due at 105K... and I’ll do the water pump at that time too. Anything else I should do at that point?

So what do i do? is it hard to take the inner door off to see if somthing i jammed up mechanically? What might it mean since the driver side switch doesnt do anything and the passenger side will put it down but not up. and it all went bad at the same time. I doubt both switches would crap out at the same time would they?

Are you talking about the actual switches on the door handles, or are there switches near the motor?

What is the regulator? and how would it get jammed up - could i fix it?

Update! - So they couldnt get the part without ordering it. and they said 3 days. so i went back and picked up my car. went to get some lunch and on the way back to my office i got the inclination to try it again, and to my suprise it went back up. I decided to throw caution to the wind ans try to put it back down, and nothing. details are. i tried to put it up from the drivers side. then the passenger side switch. the passenger side switch worked. (it did not before) The driver side had stoped working all together the day before it went down and stayed down using the passenger side switch. Needless to say now that its up, i canceled the parts order. and i have the luxury of time to address the problem.

The motor on my passenger side window has apparently siezed up. the repair bill is going to be $339.15.... Any advice before i do this? my vehicle is a 2000 Subaru Outback Sport.

Is it somthing i need to get cheked out/repaired right away? Will it be expensive? I can do a lot myself but digging into the transmission is a little above my abilities.

2000 impreza outback sport 2.2L 5spd manual 85K miles I have been noticing a low toned squealing sound from the front (maybe transmission/clutch) when I give fairly hard gas as im letting off of the clutch. It is not wheel spin. Im not sure but it may be coming from the clutch. It has only appeared in the last 3K miles or so, but it seems to be getting worse. No noticeable decline in performance though. Any ideas what it might be and a remedy? Could it be a worn clutch plate or bad throw off bearing? Thanks!