trikerbob

Hi guys, Just wanted to stop in and let you guys know that I got the new Duel Port Heads and Fuel injected manifold that Scott machined to accept the Weber 2bbl Carb, all bolted up to my EA82 motor. Very clean install. Of course this is going back in my Trike so there are no Smog crap on the manifold. Its been stripped clean and is now just a bare manifold with a Carb on it. I just finished putting it all back together and its just waiting to be put back in the Trike. I expect to get that done tomorrow. Pretty quice and easy job to pull the VW motor out again and hook this one back up. Should be done before noon. My only concern is that this motor might need a little more cooling than it did as a single port, but I really can't see how it would be much more. But I'll deal with that if it becomes an issue. Hope to have a full report tomorrow. Bob

To late to check now. Heads are on, cams are on, just need to install the covers and belts today and it will be ready to put back in the Trike. Probably pull the VW motor and put the Subie back in Saturday. Bob

Ok, I found the O ring oil seal. I think mine are OK though. Like I said these are new heads and never been run yet. They look fine. Easy item to miss if your not aware of them. I am now! Bob

OK GD, I'm still not sure about this, but I'll take a closer look today when I get ready to re-install my new heads to see if I can find what your talking about. The heads I'm getting ready to install, were removed from this motor without being run after it was a fresh rebuild. They are duel port heads and at the Time I needed single port heads. Now that Scott has machined a duel port intake to use the Weber carb, I'm putting those duel port heads back on. So I am assuming that these heads and cam towers will have a new seal in place since all this was rebuilt by a pro shop. On a side note. I'm real curious to see how much difference these duel port heads will make with a duel port manifold and Weber carb setup. I'm also going to use the higher duration cams that came on this motor when I got it. I expect to see about a 10 or 15% increase in power with this setup. Should be very interesting in my Trike. It was like a jack rabbit before running stock single port with Weber carb. So this has got to be a little better. I plan to post what my findings are once I get it back together and have a chance to test it good. Bob:banana:

Ok GD, I think I know what your talking about. Isn't there a little grove around the cam tower that needs to be cleaned out then filled again with a non harding sealer? This will prevent oil from leaking from the cam tower. Well no I don't think that would be called an O ring. I don't know what your refering to hear. Bob

OIL SEAL? Know nothing about no stinking oil seal.... Need more imput. I'll look and see if I can figure out what you are refering to. bob

That seems reasonable to me as well. I'll see what a couple others have to say. I think I'll look at the manual and see if it says anything about that. Bob

What kind, type of sealer should be used on the head gaskets. Should it be applied to both sides of the gasket or just one side? If 1 side only, what side? Thanks, Bob

Ok, if I understand you correctly, this is probably not a good idea...LOL I got the message, thank you. I just thought I could still do the same 3 step process and set the wrench to each specific torque setting. But I'll stick to the good ol hand held torque wrench. Thanks, saves me a trip to Harbor Freight today. I'll still get one for other uses, and yes, other bolts. Bob

Ok, now I know what they should be torqued at. Has anyone routinely used an impact wrench to tighten the head bolts? Good idea or bad idea and why? I was thinking I'd run over to Harbor Freight and pick up an electric Impact wrench and use that. Could be usefull in a number of other jobs as well, but didn't know if useing one on the heads was a good idea. Thanks, Bob:confused:

Ok Guys thanks, thats what I needed to know. bob

Hi guys, I know many of you will know this, but I can't find the answer in my book. I getting ready to install new duel port heads and the new manifold that Scott machined to accept the Weber carb, on my Trike. I know torquing the heads is a 3 step process but I can't find the proper torque figures for each step. Can one of you tell me whaqt it is? Thanks, Bob

Start by checking for vacuum leaks anywhere on or around the manifold and carb. Also check that the choke is releasing after it gets warmed up, it could be stuck and flooding out the carb. Good Luck Bob

I'm waiting for Scott to send me a duel port manifold that he is machining to accept a Weber 2bbl progressive carb for my wifes EA82 motor thats in her Trike. I recently purchased a long block rebuilt motor that had the duel port heads. I swapped them out for single port heads to make my single port setup work on my new Trike. Had the new duel port heads left over along with a pair of high lift cams from the new motor. Even though my wifes motor runs great, I know the heads are cracked in the water jackets. I have pretty well fixed the coolant leaks with stop leak, but I figured if I could get a carb to work on these new heads, I would get those cracked heads off and probably wind up with a few extra ponies out of it to boot. I will be sure to let the board know how well this works out. If it works out as good as I expect it too, Scott just might get a lot of business making those duel port manifolds except a Carb. Bob

Thanks, does anyone have a good photo of a duel port EA82 non turbo manafold? Bob

Just saw the intake manafold on Ebay for the EA81 and thought it might be good to have on hand, but I really don't need it as I still have an extra EA82 manafold on hand. The photo you posted, is that a manafold for a Duel port EA82? I would be interested in finding one of those if thats what it is. Looks like that could be machined to fit a Weber carb and not have to use a computer or other wireing. Looks like it would work for my Trike motors. Since I have a pair of duel port heads and an extra high lift cam setup on hand, a duel port manafold fitted to take a Weber 32/36 would be just the ticket. Bob:headbang:

Thannks guys, the radiator hook up wouldn't be an issue in my case as it would be for a Trike and radiators wouldn't be in the same location anyway. Thanks. Bob:banana:

Can anyone tell me if the intake manafold off the EA81 motor will bolt up on the EA82 motor? Thanks, Bob:confused:

Thanks, I have been ridding it around the storage facility several times today. I have a few minor issues to deal with, then I hope me and the wife can take a little ride tomorrow afternoon. Boy, these subie motors are sweet!!! In a light weight Trike, they Rock!!! Bob

[/sZE] SHE RUNS !! SHE BREATHS FIRE !! I really want to thank you guys for all your help. Its finally running like a scaulded dog. After reading the info in the manual post you guys directed me too, I could see that the timeing marks and the TDC marks were not the same and going by nothing but trying to find TDC then setting the Dist with that, wasn't going to cut it. I remembered that my wifes motor had a flywheel on it when I got it. I was thinking I threw it away but went searching and I found it. So I pulled the motor and removed the adapter plate and put the flywheel back on and then with all the proper marks, it was a piece of cake to set up. Hooked it back up in the Trike and hit the key and she fired up on the first stroke and purred like a kitten. Bob's a happy camper now. This is one sweet motor. I am very happy to have found such a good buy on a remanufactured block like this. This motor will live on in my Trike, long after I've hung up my ridding leathers. I just want to say how much I appreaicate all the help and efforts you guys put into trying to help me out. I hope I can be of help to some of you in the future. I now know a whole lot more about these motors than I ever thought I'd need to know. Thanks Bob:headbang:

Ok, looking at that info, it seems I have done things correctly, except I don't have the flywheel marks to go by, not having a flywheel in place. So without the flywheel to line up marks, how can I line it up. My asumption has always been, if the #1 piston is at TDC the little hole in the cam gear should line up with the notch on the back of the plastic belt cover. Left side at TDC right Side would be BDC. Set Dist in place with it pointing to #1 and it should fire..And it does, but not enough to get it to run. I just don't know how to correct whatever is wrong without the flywheel in place. Any suggestions? Bob

Of course the book refers to the timeing marks on the flywheel, but not having a flywheel to go by, I've had no choice but to just go by the only other means I can. If we are at TDC on #1 and Dist is set to fire at that point, and the other bank set in order, it should run...Right? Then the Dist can be adjusted to get the 8 degress BTDC for proper timeing. HELP!! Can anyone give detailed info on what we might be doing wrong? Thanks for any help you can give me. Bob

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8208/s6300511hf7.jpg http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9894/s6300510mf3.jpg

No, First off I was not aware of any marks on the belts. Seconedly, I don't have a flywheel. No flywheel came with the motor and I'm setup with an adapter plate where the flywheel would be to hook up to my VW automatic Transmission. I used the info from the shop manual to set up cam and belts. With cam gear in place. This is how its setup: with #1 piston at TDC on Fire stroke, left cam gear is set with the tiny hole in the gear directly lined up with the little notch in the plastic cover behind it. I think you can see this in the photo OK. Then the right side is set with the small hole in the cam gear the same way only 180 degress different. In the photo you can see how the little hole is at the top on left and at the bottom on right side. This is the same way my wifes motor was set up, and of course we have refered to that motor several times to see how things are set up on that motor, and it runs great. The Dist. has been set and reset several times to try to make sure it fires when it should. We have d iing light to watch it fire when the marks on the cam come around as I show in the photos. What are we doing wrong? Bob[/img][/img]

Boy oh boy, this has been a head knocker. Me and 2 friends with extensive motor experience, have been working on trying to get this motor to run for 2 days now, and nothing. It acts like it wants to start. It fires good for a couple pops out of each side but just won't catch. Checked and tripple checked everything we can think of and we can't get it to start. We are all dumb founded. Have no clue why this motor will not run. We have 130 to 150 lbs compression in each cylinder, we have fire at each plug, we have primed it through the plug hole, through the carb, we have used startering fluid, we have checked and rechecked wires and timeing until we are blue in the face, and it will not start. We have setup a timeing light to see that it fires on each cylinder when it should. We are stumped. The report is not good! Anyone have any ideas. I'm going to call Honest Engine in the morning to see if they can take a look at it. At this point, I don't know what else to do. Bob