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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    If no individual cam is more than 3~4 teeth off, you might be lucky and have no damage. You need to take off the covers, and reset the belt to correct position (inspect rollers and pump before this) Hang a belt on it and do a compression check or just try to fire it off......If it runs right, Order a new timing belt, rollers, and water pump and do the work. 22mm socket for the crank pulley. You can stop engine from rotating by putting a large prybar or screwdriver through the flexpate (access hole under rubber cover at back of block)
  2. Gloyale
    Learn about differentials. Also any chance this rig had a "fulltime" 4wd box and the center diff as not locked? When you can answer that question, you will have learned enough to understand.
  3. Gloyale
    Todays progress: CEL light wire connected Fuel pump ground run direct to body (instead of through XT6 ECU) Fuel pump relay wiring tested. Pump runs with key on. Test connector plugged in with Key On/Engine Off....Fuel pump runs and engine solenoids click. CEL flashes XT6 Engine wiring loom and ECU removed. XT6 Electric steering, Trans, and air suspension computers and wiring for Trans and Electric steering removed. ***notes 1) Fuel pump wiring had to be scavenged form engine loom....otherwise the whole thing comes out of the trunk standalone from other wiring like lights and fuel gauge. 2) Center console wiring for Blower, Fog lights, etc. did need to be scavenged from the plastic casing that eh trans wiring runs in. This is what I was able to pull out of the car. IMG_2946 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had wanted to remove the "passive" aggressive seatbelt system AKA self strangulation device computer and wiring as well. However, probably since that wiring was common to all XT4 and 6 of all trims and tranny's, it's all entangled with the wiring for all the other lighting and HVAC and body electronics.
  4. Gloyale
    with the DOHC 2.5 almost a guaranty. Especially with manual trans. Sometimes with an Automatic, the engine will stop rotating while car rolls to stop, so slight chance on no damage. BUT.......since you've been cranking it over without checking belt either way likely all cyls have bent valves.
  5. Gloyale
    broken timing belt. Probably bent valves. Pull the outer timing covers and take a look.
  6. Gloyale
    Wobble is likely in the pulley, not the crank. I can't see the crank snout "softening" espescially since it has nearly zero force on it's end compared to the massive forces at the rod journals. Might want to check that it hasn't moved on the keyway. Gotta pull it to reseal the oil pump too. Did you use the correct reinforced O-ring from subaru for the oil pump?
  7. Gloyale
    Nah. The parts cars are out back on blocks! The plan is to completely remove all the XT6 Engine wiring and ECU outta the trunk and to remove the XT6 electric steering, air suspension, and Trans computer wiring. Even after the trade off for the EJ wiring , this will shave 30 lbs of copper wire from the car! And it gets the wiring out from under the carpet. And it will hopefully leave the remaining XT6 wiring a bit more simplified, and the EJ ECU/TCU/CCU mounted behind glovebox or under column (haven't finalized that yet)
  8. Gloyale
    Hey all. Just finding myself int he bowels of absurdity with the wiring in this XT6 project. IMG_2940 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Engine, trans and Harness are from the same '01 Outback wagon 2.5. IMG_2945 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I pulled the original XT6 wring bulkhead grommet and removed all the Engine, Cruise, Air suspension, and electric steering wiring form it. And then stuffed the few remaining needed wires (wipers) back through the larger of the 2 Outback harness grommets, and fitted it through the firewall. The second smaller grommet of the EJ harness I used a hole saw and punched through were the RHD steering column would go. IMG_2944 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr When I thinned the harness I left all the ECU, TCU, and Cruise wiring intact (some cruise wires had to be cut to remove and thin) All the ECU/TCU wiring and OBD II, Ig. and fuel relays etc. stayed together. It seemed to have worked well. So far I've only hooked up 2 wires (Batt power to relays, and IG switched power to ECU "on") Turn the key and both relays click, 12v+ present everywhere it's supposed to be at Cruise and TCU as well. relays and ECU/TCU/CCU all have ground from Intake manifold. So far all good signs. But it will be a relief to actually start it and drive. Only about 20~30 more wires to go! IMG_2943 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  9. Gloyale
    If you did not pull the emulsion tubes out and clear them that is the problem with the hesitation/flat spot and possibly contributing to the idle issues. The larger "vac" ports are not vacuum thay are the air bleeds for the emulsion tubes. they need to be hooked up properly. Also the vaccum actuator for the secondaries should be hooked up too. Might want the distributor vac advacne too. I do not get why some people think "unhooking all vac lines" is ever a fix. Understand what something does before you throw it out OK?
  10. Gloyale
    My personal theory is that it's also a bit of a "pig mat" meaning it soaks up oil and other leaks. Takes about 6 years or 60,000 miles to get one filled up soaked full of oil dripping, but customer doesn't see it failing on the driveway so the leaks go unoticed unti the car is out of warranty.
  11. Gloyale
    sorry but no. There are some internal differences, but very small. They are essentially the same trans and will run fine as long as you swap the TCU as well and match final drive. Used Non-turbo trans in a turbo (swapped to 4.11), and used turbo 3.9 trans in a non-turbo legacy sedan with no issues.
  12. Gloyale
    yeah seen this twice. pull out the box and weld/reinforce
  13. Gloyale
    that looks like a weber not a solex. Solex for VW were single barrel.
  14. Gloyale
    The spec in the FSM is for a GL-5 75-90w oil. Doesn't have to be subaru stuff. Add some lucas stabilizer for good measure. 50 bucks for a gallon of gear oil is ridiculous.
  15. Gloyale
    They won't fit ont eh WRX axles. The splines on the 95+ stuff is different. Just use a WRX rear diff (or any 95+ r160) and the entire WRX axles if that is what you are planning. No need to use RX cups
  16. Gloyale
    EA82 axles will not mate up to WRX rear hubs. Wrong width. Wrong outer end hook up.
  17. Gloyale
    Just going through my old photos, found these 2 First on is my families 78 4x4 wagon. This was taken when I was almost 2, on road trip from California to Pennsylvania. IMG_0383 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And this one, I am about 6.....Taken at a horse show with my Uncle Bob the horse trainer. I had never noticed, but someones sweet brown hatch Photobombed us in the background! not our car, and probably one of on;y a few Subarus in Ocala, Florida at the time!!! IMG_0386 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr
  18. Gloyale
    I've fixed these by adding a small spring between the mechanism (in the curved part at the bottom of the opening) and the latch "frame" to assist the older, failed spring. Takes a very small spring from the hardware store. Probably won't work forever, but seems to do the trick.....the ones I've fixed have lasted years now.
  19. Gloyale
    So, I've been thinking this over. And I was under a 06 forester the other day and it dawned on me......Oh yeah......the newer rigs with the subframe bracing !!! IMG_2938 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2934 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_2933 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr ADF makes good stuff, and they aren't making products with no purpose. Wanted to put some context to this thread and why they may offer longer links. WRXs, and Forresters starting around 05???IIRC, use an additional brace that goes under the swaybar.....so on those models, a lift could cause the swaybar to hit the brace and limit downtravel. Longer links would be beneficial int his case. But to the OP of this thread, his 90's Impreza won't have that brace so the stock bar and links will still work fine.
  20. Gloyale
    You may use the rear cradle from a any of the following 90-94 Legacy, 93-02(at least) Impreza, 95-99 Legacy or Outback(don't use the outback spacers.) Forrester will not work, they are taller (like Outback but with spacer height built into cradle, instead of separate blocks) Now the sway bar links and radius arms differ (your 94 shouldn't have a rear sway bar so that makes it easy) but all vehicles listed above have radius arms that will work.
  21. Gloyale
    A single range pushbutton vacuum diaphram/cable setup is EXACTLY the same as the diff lock actuator.
  22. Gloyale
    EA82 rear axle CV cups and joints can be fitted to EA81 shafts. that's how I rehab my EA81 axles. 90-94 Legacy rear axle inner cups will work as well.
  23. Gloyale
    Just don't spin the pump backwards. You risk pulling the staked in retainer that holds the bypass valve ball. Ruins the pump. And even if that doesn't happen, you may collapse the one-way baffle in the oil filter. You want to hold the oil pump gear still while removing the nut. And on reinstall, make sure you get the flat/indexed side lined up correct on the shaft.
  24. Gloyale
    Confused by this statement? anyhow....... But to clarify, the oil pump pulley can easily be swapped. Unfortunately to do it correctly, you must remove the oil pump. I suppose if you could use some tool to hold the pulley from spinning you might be able to remove/reinstall with the pump on the engine.
  25. Gloyale
    The switch itself is right on the barrel of the ignition cylinder. But the 2 pole black "T" connector should be accessible by just removing the knee panel. It's the only 2 wire bundle with a black 2 pole coming from the column. unhook it and you'll never hear any chimes again.
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