Gloyale
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Posts posted by Gloyale
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If I connect the new wire to the white wire below the link and than connect all the wires to the fuse box it works. That white wire has to power something else along the way
Between the links box and the interior fuse box there are no lessd than 4 splits.
Wire splits and goes to :
Alternator, Ignition switch, fuse 1-4, and fuses 17-18.
Additionally, if you have a GL-10 there would be a split for the Sunroof relay, and Air suspension compressor.
My guess is when you cut the wire and ran jumper between links box and fuse box, you cut out the split that goes to the Ignition switch, and probably the ALT too.
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hey I got yer spider Compressor and bracket if you need em. Pay shipping and beer oney. PM me.
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there is one position on each cam where there is are no valves open.
I ussually set the cam up so that when I put the carriers on all lobes are facing down or sideways.
It's kind of a sweet spot where turning 10-20 degrees one way begins to open an intake, and a roll of the cam the other way just begins to open the opposite exhaust.
I have no idea where this spot is relative to teh cam arrows actually. I've never needed to know. Just find that sweet spot where no valves are under tension.
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My 2004 Forester started loosing the vacuum in the canister after sitting overnight. Press on the brake before starting and it would be rock hard, start it and it works.
this is normal.
I don't think you really had an issue.
Placebo affect of having done something is making it seem better.
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This car is going to be the dearth of me. Now I have no power at the links but I got power at the wires going into the links from the bottom, still no power at any fuses ......anyone please HELPPPPP
Just to clarify. Power goes OUT on the links....not comes in. 12v from battery in on Large black wire from battery, through links, and out to systems in the car.
You need to verify that the LARGE white wire at the links box, and the large white wires going into the back of the interior fuse box, have continuity. These are all the same circuit. It's the main supply to Ig. switch and Fuse box, as well as being the charge line for the ALT.
Check to make sure that black fusible link is in good shape and passing power through.
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All of the grounds have 12 volts and the fat white wire and the single wire going to the battery have 12 volts. All links are also at 12 volts. There are 2 gay white wires behind the fuse box and neither have 12. I’m off today so I will double check all of that, I also tested all the the fat wires going to the starter and alternator all of them at 12 also
Grounds have 12v? This is wrong.
Gay white wires? I can tell you all of the large white wires in that car should have 12v to battery.....it's the same circuit as the charge wire at the ALT.
It is really sounding to me like the large white wire has corroded through where it's crimped/splits under the fender.
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I've been charging through the OBD port for over 6 years. There's just nothing better.
Nothing wrong with solar charging. Just don't be lazy. Just pop the hood and hook up to the battery.
You should not be "charging" by backfeeding any circuit in the car. This is like trying to supply your house with water by hooking up the neighbors hose to your garden faucet.
The cicuits are made to handle just the one or 2 items in the circuit. With the wire gauge getting smaller as it branches out to each smaller and smaller load. OBD port is a TINY load. It's not a circuit that's designed to handle more than a few amps required by scanners.
Personally I think all this is silly. You should not really ever need to use a supplemental charger to tend a battery unless the vehichle is sitting for months.
This is just using gadgets for the sake of feeling gadgety.
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Ditched the gaskets all together and used anaerobic sealant instead--that stuff is awesome.
If you mean at the carb base you are in big trouble.
Being in contact with gasoline will eat that sealant.
Take it off right away and get some gaskets. Or make some.
Sealant will ABSOLUTELY not hold in that application for more than a few trips. Then you will spew coolant out the base and overheat. It cold puke into the intake and hydrolock the engine on startup too. Lot's of ways for things to go bad here.
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have the 99 engines drivers side head drilled and tapped for EGR.
Then use the 2004 Manifold. Might want to swap Cam and crank pulleys to match whatever type the 2004 needs. 99 might or might not be the same.
You could run it without EGR.....no real driving issues, but it will throw an EGR code most likley.
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Congrats! XT6 radiators are NOT easy to find.
I've got a third one here that has a cracked tank. Gonna keep that one as a template to get aluminum ones made in the future.
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Idlers and tensioners are interchangeable.......mostly......
the lower smooth roller on the 99 should be the type with the lip on the back.
The upper smooth should be the same for both, as well as the lower cogged idler.
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Don't understand the concept in all sunroofs leak, would you pay $35,000 for a car that the sunroof leaked I had beads of water all along the back of the sunroof drip pan or not there still should not be any water. My husband drives a 1999 Honda passport with a sunroof that has NOT leaked 1 time.
He means the seal where the cglass meets the roof. That seal is not water tight on ANY CAR. there will be water that seeps past that as its just a sitting against the metal edge, no real "seal" to speak of.
This is how ALL sunroofs are. There is an acceptable, small amount of water that will leak past the glass. But that water should not come into the car. There is a drip rail around the whole frame, and at it's corners there are drain tubes that run down the pillars.
I have seen at least 5 leaky 2000-2004 Outbacks, that were fixed by simply putting clamps around where the vinyl hose drain hose attaches to the sunroof tray. that's it. hose got old and brittle, and didn't hold tight to barb it was attached too.
Whatever is going on with these cars, it's a drain issue, not a "leak" issue. the interior drip is happening because water in the tray is not draining properly.
****Oh and the Honda? garauntee there is a drip tray and drains. If you took them out or plugged them you would have water getting in the car. It's how these things are built.
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Along the top of the head and the Cam carrier there should be 2 letters stamped. Like "OV" or "TY". They are random pairs, but they will match between the pair carrier/head. Same matching setup they use for connecting rods/caps.
As for which cam carrier is drivers or passenger.........I look for the carrier that had the Cam sensor on it......that is the drivers side. If your engine has EGR that's another really easy way to identify the drivers side head.
Match the letters to get the appropriate head/carrier combo.
Then the Cam with the threads at the "long" end is the Drivers side cam.
It really is best to keep the rocker assemblies matched too.....as they ride on the Cam and are worn to a particular lobe. But not critical, if they get mixed up.
DEFINATELY....set the valve clearance once the heads are assembled.
IN MILLIMETERS
0.10-0.20 for intake
0.15-0.30 for exhaust
Translated to inches, I ussually set the intakes as close to .006" as I can, and then exhaust to .009 or .010
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Hey! I found the radiator! And the one for the next project car too! I had been stressing, wanting to keep an "original" radiator for the next project, as it will get an original 2.7 H6 engine. I had started working on fabbing in an EJ radiator to this current car, but now I can skip that.
2 complete XT6 radiators in one place on the planet.......what are the chances!
This is good news. With the radiator issue solved, I can actually get her up and ready to drive.
Pics of the whole car to come soon. I really want to get the window trim painted and reinstalled before I show 'er off. Oh and exhaust might be good too before running video.
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I don't plan on bashing it our anything that could be considered hard core 4 wheeling it will get trips up to ski resorts and a weekend driver mostly. And one cross country trip.
Are there problems with the single range transmissions or is the dual range just a better fit.
dual range uses lever activation.
Single uses vac solenoids.
In this case, since you don't alradey have a lever, it would be one more thing to add.
A single range 4wd from a loyale or DL might be just the ticket for ya. non-turbo so will be 23 spline and 3.9 final.
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Yeah, I though that a few time through ended up mixed up, yes every 180 on the crank one is at tdc.
Yeah I just wanted to clarify, not giving you crap.
We all get confused about stuff we know like the back of our hands.
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Ok , I guess I had that wrong. I guess all those blueish O rings I’ve used were of lesser quality ? Never had an issue. My dealer parts guy is great and an older guy so I trust him. Talking about the oil pump O ring.
So I’ll take that step backwards today and check the pump. Waggggghhhh
On the near horizon I’ll be taking the show over to a friends place and place the engine on a stand so I can comfortably get the oil Pan resealed.
I’ve seen and even have somewhere an oil pan gasket. Many folks say they don’t exist and only use Fuji-bond , etc.
What’s your method ?
lots of OE subaru O-rings that come in contact with oil are blue. Just a high quality rubber to my knowledge.
Including the reinforced one you will want to get from the dealer for the oil pump. it's blue rubber, and it has a "skirt" in the interior diameter.
DO NOT use a gasket on the oil pan. Just use good sealant. I use "the RIght Stuff" brand. in your rusty area it might be worth buying a new oil pan to install, rather than rehabing and cleaning the old rusty one which can be a PITA.
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Turn it 3 more revolutions. Each TDC will point to another plug.
Re check the timing marks. Put the crank at the 3 lines. One cam dot should be uo, other down. One rotation of the crank they should swap.
Close, but not correct. Each revolution of the crank brings two of the cylinders through TDC on compression, Then as the crank goes round again, the other two will comeup through TDC on compression.
IF you set it top TDC on #1, then Turn crank one rotation the next time it will point at cyl 2. Turn once more and it iwll be back on cyl 1
TDC for cyls 3 and 4 happens 180 degrees of crank opposite from TDC for the other 2. but only one cylinder at a time is on it's compression stroke.
dropped the Y pipe and no change in performance.
No acceleration going up hill.
On flat it's okay, but still very little acceleration.
The loss of power happened initially while I was driving on the highway.
All the sudden it didn't want to accelerate or climb hills.
I have changed the timing belts and checked for a blocked Cat. Still the same issues.
Fuel pump seems to be working. voltage to pump checks out normal.
Haven't done a pressure test yet.
New cap and rotor are coming today.
Have you set the distributor timing with a timing light?
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Tell her if it ever fails to go in a straight line in the snow with good tires at 35-40mph, the end links for the front sway bar might have snapped (these use plastic dog bone ends). I ran into that the first winter with mine and thought it was just the car.
Not to start a fight....really, genuinely curious...but....
I don't see at all how a disconnected sway bar (broken link) could afffect the steering? Espescially going in a straight line on flat ground. The sway bar has nothing to do with steering. It doesn't change the direction of the wheel.
I could see on very bumpy roads maybe could make for some effort to handle the car, but just a dusting of snow?
What function do you think the sway bar is serving, that when absent creates a steeering issue?
FWIW, when I've had trouble keeping a striahgt line in the snow in a Subaru, it's been a rear end alignment issue causeing the "ghost walk" that hte 05-09 are known for....though I've seen it in a GL with failed suspension bushings and back tires pointed like this \ /
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Wiring wise it's close, mechanically it's not.
You're right. It's more.
Mechanical mods to SPFI swap.
Disty re-drill and pin with EA81 gear.
Disty cut off ear and widen/slot mounting hole
Flip IAC valve.
Install 180 degree U-bend IAC tube.
Figure out where the hell to put the SPFI air box and MAF, since the EA81 cars the battery is here the Air box goes.
Other than wiring, EJ drops in un-modified
Mechanical mods are Exhaust, Flywheel, and slot the engine mounting holes. maybe a fiddle with throttle cable.
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There is a rag joint but that’s not the problem. I’ll look it over again after the rain. I don’t think it’s anything visible.
there should be no rag joint on a Factory Power steering equipped 84 EA81 car.
I just went out to my completely stock, 1984 EA81 sedan and looked.
If you have a rag joint, you DO NOT have power steering.
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Probably the steering column u-joint/rag joint. Get a urethane one for a VW beetle. Direct replacement.
GD
Pretty sure power steering models didn't have a rag joint.
Check the linkage obviously, but I would guess it's a valving issue int eh rack. I had one that failed somehow and made for WAAAY over boosted steering with no feeling of return to center. One little touch of the wheel would shoot you off into the ditch practically.
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SPFI swap is just as much work as an EJ swap.
I did the SPFI swap in my EA81 back in 2008.......Made it drive smooth, but no more power.....if anything a little less?
I would go either Weber swap or EJ it.
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Intake definitely has gaskets.
Coolant crossover pipe is worth removing to replace the two O rings under it. Make sure they're genuine Subaru items
Cheers
Bennie
I use appropriate sized Buna rubber O-rings for them. should have large enough diameter that you have to slightly roll them into position tight inside the lip of the seat.
For turbo cars I use the subaru Orange rubber o-rings that are normally for the case half water tube.
Definately replace the o-rings, and best to pull that heater return tube. If you unclamp the elbow hose at the water pump, you can bring that whole pipe up and out and inspect and paint while you've got the crossover pipe removed.
Early 2.2 coolant crossover pipe etc
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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"the RIght Stuff" is what I use for nearly everything.
The regular permatex gray and black tend to not stick/seal as well long term. And it gets hard and burnt/brittle after about 5 years. "the Right Stuff" stays well stuck and soft and rubbery for years and years. I use it for trim adhesive as well.
It''s friggin awesome.
One tip I will offer.
Wipe off excess that squeezes out while it's still soft. If you leave big blobs of it to dry it can get tugged on accidentally when wiping off oil at filter changes. And because it's so tough and rubbery, it's possible to actually pull/stretch it out of seams.
So wipe it off so only thin smears remain and then it can't get pulled out.