Hondaslayer

98 Forester 04 struts Ironman springs 1 in spacers 215/75-15 General Grabber AT2 Full Primitive armor with 4eat pan plate 2 row radiator AT trans cooler with fan Extra cooling fan for low speed driving Solenoid C switch Hellas Britax baby seat

To follow up..... 150 miles and 1 week later and still good. This makes no sense at all, but the alternator may well have been the culprit.

Perhaps my problem just diagnosed itself......... Went out to start the car to go to lunch. *click* dead battery. Jumped car and pulled it into the shop to perform a charging system test. Battery was low, but still good. Alternator OTOH had excessive ripple. Excessive ripple eh? Funky voltage and potential introduction of AC into a DC system could very well cause all kinds of issues. Good news, a new (reman) alternator is only $63 my cost. Bad news, I missed them by 15 minutes. To be continued tomorrow (assuming they have one on the shelf)

Forgot to add, the front a/f sensor was replaced (oem) due to some idiot forgetting to disconnect it while dropping the exhaust Air filter is new Fuel filter is an interesting thought. The one on the car is new (replaced right before I bought it) but it's an aftermarket part. I was a bit leery of it, but there was no difference in fuel pressure when I bypassed it. I'm probably going to put an OE one on either way for piece of mind. Intake manifold / throttle body / IAC were thoroughly cleaned while off the car. TPS is set at .50 (ish, second volt meter said .51, close enough, still in spec) Cold RPM is 1500 - 1700 initially, dropping to 1000 then finally 750.

Normally I am not one to be stumped on Subarus, especially EJ22's, but this one has me perplexed to say the least. Vehicle: 95 Legacy :LSi 2.2 litre with 4EAT Condition: On cold starts the engine will start fine and idle normally. Problem is when I attempt to give it gas. Touch the accelerator pedal and the engine RPM drops to 500 or lower. The engine does not stall, but the RPM do not climb at all. Release accelerator pedal and the idle returns to normal (albeit slightly rough) Within a few minutes everything is fine and the car drives normal. Gas mileage is horrendous (11-12 mpg) I cannot find any vacuum leaks at all. Currently there is no CEL and vehicle just passed emissions with flying colors Previously it had a code for a knock sensor (replaced with OEM sensor after cleaning mounting surface) Timing belt is brand new (under 2,000 miles) Cam sensor, crank sensor, MAF all swapped with known good units, no change. Coolant temp sensor is new, replaced when engine was out (replaced the typical 2.2 oil seals and timing belt) with new OEM sensor Spark plugs and wires are new NGK Fuel filter is new Fuel pressure regulator seems ok (no fuel in vacuum hose) Throttle position sensor is new and set to middle of spec (.50 IIRC) Side note: When this is acting up the transmission binds badly. No binding at all when the car is up to temperature. When adjusting the TPS there was a buzzing noise like a solenoid actuating from the transmission. When this noise occured the TPS reading went way out of spec. I suspect something in the transmission (either duty solenoid C, or perhaps one of the solenoids in the valve body) to be failing and interfering with the TPS. Either way, I'm at a loss and it's a very strange feeling. Help? -Ben

Boneyard, or a dealership (prettyr sure they are still available) If not try a Hastings/Pepboys/Murrays etc...

You can use 90-91 Legacy rear strut mounts for a bolt on solution. That is what I originally did before I broke them jumping the car 90-91 Legacy mounts are made for the tapered springs, but have the same upper bolt spread as your Impreza.

It kind of works that way. It is not a full on lift per'se, but just a couple blocks between the front and rear x-members (and the front of the diff x-member) to help keep camber and toe in check. You might need the pitch stopper, steering joint and radiator hoses as well.

Well, I done killed it good. 298k on it. I had recently installed my big engine (EJ25, ported heads, delta cams, polished and ported everything) and was driving up to the Lake Superior Pro rally in Houghton Michigan. The car was running great until about 11 hrs into the trip. On a steeper uphill between Negaunee and Ishpeming (can ya tell I was in da UP?) the front differential locked up and came apart (put a piece through the case :-\ ) Fortunately my boss was coming up and only a few hours behind me. We pulled as much as we could with hand tools and had a spare set of junks wheels / tires sent from home. I salvaged the wheels and tires, cams, radiator and hoses, radio, roof basket, spare, and all my various goodies that could be removed. Sold her to the scrap yard for $100 :-\ Fortunately the wife and I were able to still enjoy our weekend (got a courtesy car from a local body shop, I could not thank them enough) and rode home with the boss. Picked up a 1996 Legacy Outback from our used lot. Total for the car $351.90 with tax and plate transfer fee and this one is a manual trans (albeit with a binding centre diff) In a decade of owning Subaru this is the first one to leave me stranded, just goes to show how tough these cars are Time to embark on a new project, certainly liking the Legacy Outback so far -Ben

Tranny cooler for your 4EAT Works quite well for my POS

215/75-15 Grabber AT2's on my Impreza w/ Forester suspension

Anyone have any updates? I have been putting it off while I tear down and part out my other toy. Hopefully once the other Impreza is gone I can really start having fun

I think the problem would be that if you do hit something you might actually break the case where the extended bolt went into.

I did not have a choice when it came to more articulation, my swaybar missed the mount by a good inch!

The 2000 Legacy? The rear suspension is different.