subaruplatt

As the title says my 2006 impreza wagon now has 4300 degree Kelvin 55 watt HID H7s in the Low Beams. The short story is that they still have a really good cutoff they aren't blinding and they are brighter. These bulbs appear to me to be 100% compatible ! I have a standard conservative DOT beam pattern! Perfect! The H7 HID bulbs are a direct fit for the OEM low beam projector lamps, including arc gap etc... The 55 watt HID bulbs actually run cooler than the 55 watt halogen bulbs they replace. HID bulbs give off more light in the visible and ultra violet spectrum and less into heat/infra red region, but with halogen more than two thirds of their total energy gets wasted in the non visible infra red spectrum, fact. HID 3 times brighter per watt. They are busier making light than they are making heat. No they are not as bright as your typical uber riche mobile. This is simply because the factory lens and reflector system in the lamp is smaller, from simpler times. I got the 55 watt ballasts but didn't require the canbus version. I did require capacitors to keep the daylight running voltages from causing visible flicker. Note... Get bigger capacitors for 55 watts as most of them will be made for 35 watt. This advise should also apply to the identical 2007 impreza. The 2006 sti which had HIDs as an option used a very similar almost identical headlight assembly but the bulbs they use are 35 watt D2S base. Cheers! I spent money on every thing I could and including a very professional/clean installation it came to 180$ + tax. I got it done at https://www.facebook.com/jvghid JVG Auto Customs Inc.

6.5jj, offset 48, bolt pattern 5-100 2005-2004 X, XS, XT 2003: X, XS 215/60R16 94H M+S 6.5 jj, XS, XT, alloy, offset 48 (1.89) 2002: L 205/70R15 95S M+S 6jj, offset 48 (1.89) 2002: S 215/60R16 94H M+S 6.5jj alloy, offset 48 (1.89) 2001-1998: S 215/70R16 94H M+S 6.5jj alloy, offset 48 (1.89) 2001-1998: L 1998 standard 205/70R15 95S M+S 6.5jj, offset 48 (1.89)

My buddy had his whole front end replaced by a subaru dealer. 2003 forester like yours. There is a suspension recall on them. Don'y worry you will get either free rustproofing or a new suspension. Are you sure that it's not worth doing at the dealer?

8 grand is golden! Remember that for another 4 grand you could do the head gaskets, timing belt-water pump,valve clearance, re-seal water pump? maybe.new koni shocks etc. prices for used subarus are reasonable no doubt !

Now the ECU has had time to learn, the start-up mixture is somewhat leaner ( nose test ), and the idle down is quicker. Also I would swear that my warm-up time is sooner, the idiot gauge thermometer rises in just a few blocks. The auto for what it is, also seems quite smooth, is it possible that instead of delaying lockup as was previous for warm up purposes they are revving each gear a bit more instead?

2006 Impreza wagon. Car runs richer initially then idles down quicker and I feel the car warms up quicker as well. Seems like it took a while for the ecu to trim. Initially the exhaust had a rumble or louder note when cold. I'm not sure it might have gone away? Ran fine at 122 KMH for 1 hour. Smooth as silk when I put to bed.

1 Fuel one way valve gasket replacement. 2 ECM-Reprograme. 3 Inspect and punch test lower control arms. I had known about the fuel valve recall for some time but hadn't bothered to do it. The ECM re-flash is the second time the firmware has been upgraded on this car. I was told that this one improves the environmental performance of the car. http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cars101.com%2Frecalls.html&ei=uGCVUI-YHoTfyQHUzYD4Cw&usg=AFQjCNG8kpxIozX9K9-2YU6f8ev853_tpQ Because my front control arms were "like new" they rustproofed my front end instead of replacing anything. Nice just in time for winter:headbang:

These bodies are not particularly prone to rust. But if people let chips and scratches go unheeded this is what happens. Still takes forever to rust through the panels, which I might add are not structural. Have a few sections or panels painted when you can afford to. Also have the engine area steam cleaned and oiled.

$11-12k is more like it, but then again it is the newer although not newest body style. These cars got esp.

At 60 K km I found my front pads half way and my rear pads wearing on an angle (sticking pads). I replaced all four and didn't touch the rotors. At 100 K km my rotors are still pretty nice. Then again they don't owe me anything any more. Not sure but I think subaru now uses a different pad compound for replacement as it's less spongy. O yea and standard procedure is to drain and replace brake fluid every 2-3 years. INMHO

If you can suck some gas line anti freeze through the EGR. Good cheap fix. Stange some times I think mine is over idling. The glide or momentum you feel is in fact computer simulated. You find this out when you drop it in neutral.

After two major impacts my 06 impreza is yet to need an alignment. Sometimes after an impact the car gets new paint and things like new rads. it's an upgrade! Changing a fender is no big deal, they bolt it on. I would drive the car.

Just make sure the left one is tipped down a bit more than the right one. Not much say six inches at 10 feet. THIS IS A LEGAL REQUIREMENT TO PREVENT BLINDING ONCOMING MOTORISTS. The lights work in pairs and shouldn't iluminate past peoples trunks into the windows. Thats your right beam limitation. Figure out what your safe nighttime following distance is and set your lights so you don't illuminate the inside car in front of you That being said this best works with lensed ellipsoidal projector styled lamps with a projected aperture. Regular headlamps get turned down lower than the ellipsoidal kind because of the blinding factor.

What does anyone think of this head gasket? http://www.smart-service.com/blog/2010/03/which-head-gasket-is-best-for-a-subaru

My 06 impreza 2.5 NA threw a valve at around 59000 KM. Both heads were replaced by Subaru with new ones. I recommend that the first maintenance you do would be to have the valve clearance adjusted and or checked. This is a simple procedure. Mine seemed to benefit from new plug wires too. Also check and or replace rad cap. I took mine off:clap: and cleaned the seal. But I'm picky. All in-all I would say it's pretty smooth and quiet engine and has yet to leak a spot of oil.