subaruplatt

Hi this happened two weeks ago I was in the middle of a left hand turn during a yellow light which became a red light which the silly nob drove through. I was in shock and didn't know what to do for several minutes. The other driver wanted me to go to the collision centre to report it but I insisted we call the cops and have a proper report done on the spot. The Cop took my side of the story, so he put the other driver in the at fault or left column on the report, and incidentally the nob denied all wrong doing. The Cop said that because nobody stayed to witness he couldn't charge the guy ( rush hour ). Better than nothing I suppose. Yes I could have driven it but I was afraid the airbags would explode in my face so I had it towed. The alignment of the car wasn't even disturbed! And yes the Caddy that Zigged as the ad put it was probably a wright off. We really hit hard. I was impressed by the hole the subie poked into one of the strongest parts of that car without sustaining structural damage to the frame or sub frame. Accident 8:25 Driver reports time acurately because he is late for work and rushing. Driver reports that during the whole time of the accedent the coffee he had in hand was never spilt. Driver reports to the police officer that he changed lanes just before the intersection. He was initially behind a car in the inside lane who was already stoped at the yellow light. By the time the driver changed lanes and entered the intersection the light had aready turned red. The driver not only took a chance racing to get through the intersection he did so blindly because as as he was passing this stopped car he would have been unable to see my car proceeding through the intersection. The driver tried to drive arround me after he reallized the collision was immanent. The front left corner of my vehicle hit the surface imediately behind the drivers front left wheel well.

Yes that was one of the Euro bodies brought into north america in 97.

Three more pics

I have since discovered what it feels like to spear the left front corner of the imp into a cadilacs driver-side A pillar. The subaru took a terrible pounding in a collision a couple of weeks ago. It has already been repaired by a dealer authorized body shop. With $4500 worth of parts $7600 after labor, and it looks great! :-) Also the Alignment specs appear impeccable! I was also told that the sub frame components were never altered. Subaru coolant additive used in fresh rad fluids. Even the hoods clear-coat appears to have that plastic like gloss I remember. Interesting to note how the Subaru front bumper rail has hinged corners designed to redirect force upon impact. Will be test driving it some more and will verify all is well but it is at least a relief that it has progressed so far back to normal.

New Wagon warms up faster than any car I have ever driven. A plus! My old VR6 used to warm up after more than 20 minutes of winter driving!. Major Oil contamination issues. Still miss the oil temp gauge though. Seems like the subaru is made for winter driving in the city. Seems like the Jag isn't. Still 10/40 amsoil synthetic would probably last the winter in the jag. Cheers! No kidding. So the fix? We had to pull each and every plug (coil over plug, and lots of cowling bits) and dump 2 ounces of oil down each cylinder to reseal the rings - then crank that sucker for like 10 minutes before it finally kicked over and then smoked for 20 minutes as it burned off the oil . Yep - that's the reccomended fix from the jag shop. Who designs crap like this?? So no - I wouldn't own one. Especially with their reputation - even on recent models, and the way they basically rebaged the Taurus with a Haldex AWD add on. Crap. On the same jag that we had the sealing issue with it blew a rear wheel bearing around the same time - 36,000 miles on it. Nice interior - poorly designed mechanicals. GD

" the 4eat awd system is proactive and will activate the center clutch before any difference between the two VSS signals." It's like the car is always ready to climb a hill! The car is set up to do a couple of mph without depressing the gas pedal. I feel the awd pushing against all 4 wheels when holding it back in drive. The cooling system has to work harder to cool the transmission as the car is literally fighting itself stopped and in drive. I readily shift the car into neutral when I am stopped at long lights. I hear that the new model actually throws the transmission into neutral itself after the car is stopped and the brakes have been depressed for a matter of time.

That's not clear at all - the larger pressure in the front is designed to offset the extra weight in the front of the vehicle. With 33/30 there is still more compression on the front set than on the rear. It's not like they are making the tires equal in diameter via air pressure. At least they are not the same diameter when the car is at rest. Then I wondered if centrifugal forces had an effect and what effect they might have on wheel diameter.

Weight distribution ( not sure ) Tire pressure ( factory is the only guide there are no charts for greater pressures ) Electronic clutch when does it act? 60/40 ? Wheel diameter pressure vrs weight deflection vrs temperature and expansion Open differentials? It is clear to me that with factory tire pressures 33/30 the front ones seem to have an effective diameter which is less than the rear do to greater compression and because of greater frontal load ( weight balance). Doesn't this cause the front tires to spin a little faster than the back ones and upon take off effectively bias the all wheel drive system to kick in quicker? Does throttle position effect the all wheel lockup? Do the centrifugal forces tend to equal the varying diameters after a certain speed? Do increased temperatures exist up front that work to equalize the difference front to back diameters? Once again how does it all work together?

Thanks all.

Is there a dealer ( subaru ) approved way to lift the 06-07 impreza wagon?

Check the hubs too when the rotors are off. Was the car ever curbed? If you find your new brake job going south prematurely check the hubs.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2088351653

Most of you live up north, I would use 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic year round and be happy. Today's 10w30 synthetics flow better at cold temps than every conventional 5w20 that I know of. A large portion of engine wear comes from cold starts. Use synthetics at 7,500 miles intervals with a quality filter and be happy. I used 15/50 mobil synthetic for years in my out going VR6. Years of winter starts! Thick as hell in the morning but after it had warmed up you could beat the @**@ out it and would never hurt it. 12 years of daily red line flogging +300K Km on the original unopened engine and still going. The car used to take up to a half an hour to fully warm up with the lowered friction index oils! The engine would however perform normally after 3 or 4 minutes warm up. Subaru probably can't have that problem because these engines seem to warm up extremely quickly! I ultimately settled on Amsoil 10/40 as the ultimate high performance/everyday Oil.

Thanks I'm cruising flat and steady, (37/33.5psi rm. temp) Most mellow ride by far. Not going to worry, will wait till I get there.http:grin:

I know it might be too soon to tell. It is with added VVT for 06-07.5. How much of a redesign was it? We are driving an 06 2.5 Imp Wagon and I was wondering what you guys think I should ultimately expect out of the head gaskets?

I vote for brembo rotors and pagid (black) pads. Zimerman rotors are exquisite, can you get them for subaru? Had this mechanic who meticulously drill wire brushed the cad plating off the contact surface before pad installation. He claimed the cadmium would forever contaminate the pads. Best brake job I ever had!

Just wanting to add something..... Last month I returned home coming south from the east side of algonquin park. There where long steep hills and I found that fourth gear in the auto didn't provide the engine breaking necessary for the cruise control to work effectively down steep hills. I was reaching speeds of 140+ KPH . I discovered that it was quite convent to downshift the auto into third. To my amassment the cruise control didn't kick out and with the increased engine breaking the speed was really well controlled without touching my breaks, or the gas. I didn't even think that revs were really that excessive. I believe the cool circulation of air does adequately offset the increased engine RPMs. Not talking about dropping the shifter and flooring it or revving it upwards throughout the gears. Just talking about wisely anticipating the decline and picking your gears accordingly. I believe that truckers state that you should always go down a hill in the same gear as you went up the hill. We did feel the car down shift on some of the inclines, especially if we were trying to gain momentum. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Fog lights ( yes ) just need the switch and the actual lighting fixtures installed. They come ready to match your paint. No to heated seats. Not sure about the mirror wire but I would like to have that mirror too. Not sure about the rear lighter plug if it was pre wired or not? It is also prewired for additional tweeters in the front doors, also other upgrades like a subwoofer are ( I believe ) pre wired under one of the front seats.

Yes and no, good bearings can be pressed into bent or spindles You know the ankle bone is connected to the knee bone.... Rotors are connected to.. And the front half of the subaru is front wheel drive, and the rear end isn't all that different either.

I had this problem with my last VW GTI VR6. After at-least 3 expensive after market break jobs in about 6 months a real mechanic noticed that a spindle was warped. So the warm rotors were conforming to the warped spindles, one warped rotor was causing the other to warp and vola another break job was necessary. Since then ( years ago ) the breaks are wearing beautifully as the new owner drives the @@@@ out of it on a daily basis.

Difference in tire pressure from front to back is calculated to compensate for the decreased diameter of the front wheels as they are more compressed due to greater load bearing. I noticed that the front dampers are tuned for moderate tire pressures after that you get bounce back. With new struts and better tires who knows? On the auto the torque is regulated so that the normal slip front to back is 60/40. That is because normally 60 % of the traction will be available from the front wheels. This is once again a weight thing. I have read that You get 58/42 on the wagon and 60/40 on the sedan http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72585

On My 06 impreza wagon the factory tire pressure is indicated at 33 front 30 back. Thats 11/10 ratio. Tires can expand from a normal cold state as much as 4 pounds. On the side wall it says that the maximum tire pressure is 40 pounds. So In the front I put in 36 cold and in the back 32, could go 33 according to 11/10 ratio but there is hardly any compression on the back tires even at 32 and we all know that radial tires actually are properly inflated when they look just a bit soft. Anyhow 36 front vrs 33 flattens out the roll and wander nicely.

I agree that even the worst looking Subaru can be to appreciated for it's engineering. That being said the legacy wagon is one great looking automobile and there wasn't a debate about that. Yah know what I mean?

"sorry to piss all over your cotton candy" Wow! What Magic you have with words. I feel honored! But thanks for informing me that Subaru has not only messed up the impreza they also have messed up the legacy too.

Thanks I finally found it at allsubaru.com Part # 95055FE000 for 07 impreza wagon should fit 06. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=394964&siteid=214117&catalogid=3754 54.53 includes shipping to me here in Toronto!