wildwagonz

Not sure of this is an answer to your problem, but I had an 01 Legacy that was stumbling and surging I replaced lots of stuff and it still did it, ended up being the screen on the fuel pump in the tank was full of rust....removed the screen and it ran perfectly

My neighbor owns a body shop and regularly rebuilds high end European cars....needless to say he does all my body work too and he told me to always always always remove those rubber strips

Anyone know the specs? I am thinking of tackling a head gasket job on an 02 Forester I acquired and want to be sure I get it right...The drivers side gasket is leaking VERY badly onto the ground Thanks ~Tim

Hi all, quick question Is the phase 2 Ej25 (02 Forester) head gasket torque sequence/specs the same as the phase 1 DOHC model? if not does anyone have a FSM handy and knows the torque specs? Thanks

Fixed..... New Solenoid Fixed the problem, Thanks for the help!

Well im thinking solenoid but before I go dropping 180 bucks for a non returnable one at the dealer, does anyone here have access to a used one possibly from a junk tranny lying around?

OK......so I measured the resistors ohms and it came up 12.7 figured it was within spec. Then checked the tranny connectors they were not crushed all seemed fine. Measured ohms on #5 red wire to ground got nothing, pulled tranny pan measured solenoid pin to ground still got nothing all other solenoids were measuring something around 12 ohms but nothing on the line pressure solenoid. So does that mean its bad?

I have checked the wires none were crushed and I never thought about the resistor. Would it possibly go bad on a motor swap I thought those usually never go bad. Are the clearances between the tranny pan and the solenoids that close? All was completely fine before the engine swap.

Hi all, I just finished changing the engine in my friends 02 Legacy (threw a rod at only 114k miles) No problems tranny wise prior to the engine swap, got the engine in last night and now I have a flashing AT Oil Temp light and a Check Engine light on as well. I read the CEL with my code reader and it comes up P0748 pressure solenoid circuit. Then I did the "secret handshake" to get the TCM codes and I get 7 long flashes and 5 short flashes for a code 75. I have searched all day today online and came up with the possibility of dented transmission pan when i jacked it up to drop the new motor in. I checked the pan and it doesn't appear bent but the bottom does seem a slight bit (VERY SLIGHT) caved in. Its just the ever slight concaved, and when I say slight i is barely noticeable. Could it be thats the problem? I am going to pull the pan off tomorrow to check everything out. Just was wondering if someone can elaborate on what exactly happens with the solenoid or if someone else has had this happen to them? Could it be something else? I checked all the connectors on the transmission on the top near the firewall and they all are fine. Thanks for your help in advance. ~Tim

Just a useful sidenote regarding your 90 legacy....my Subaru mechanic coworker/friend told me a while back that the 90 legacies with an early production date were notorious for the blocks cracking causing the problems you are experiencing, I ran into this with my 90 legacy as well which was made in 89. Replaced the engine with a 91 2.2 and all has been fine since. Had another friend with the exact same problem too

Ill do a fluid change but should I use a thicker oil? It only makes sense that if it doesn't do it when its cold and does when its warm that the thicker cold oil is helping right?

I'm running 80w90 in the car now I believe but the fluid has been in tere a little while for at least 30k miles

tWell my 97 legacy 5speed is grinding when I shift into 3rd. Car has 170000 with a 2.2. When the car is cold it shifts perfectly then once the engine/trans is warm it has a slight blip of a grind only when I shift into 3rd. Its the sane every time I shift just a slight grind but still runs and drives fine. I was just wondering why it does it only when its warm and no cold? Should I use thicker oil? I just want to do whatever I can to keep it from getting worse. Thanks in advance...

I still have the pan down, I was thinking it could be that, but I thought that only effected the 3rd to 4th shift....... I will replace it anyways, Anything else I should check or replace while I am under there.... I just dont understand this thing, it shifts like brand new EVERYTIME once it is warmed up Whats the procedure for checking the ATF oil temp codes, I searched and came up with gound out a pin #5 I think it was then do the whole shift through gears and press gas pedal....is that right? Thanks