CzarMohab

and prolly 10 times that in laughs

Relating to the CV, I read somewhere that you'd need a hydraulic press or something similar for the changeout... is that true, or is there some work around? Other than road tests or jacking up the front end, turning it on and putting it in gear, is there any way to test this to be sure? I don't have the tools for boot replacement, let alone CV replacement, so I was hoping to postpone that until I either had the $$ for tools or $$ for shop work. If thats all it is then I'm good, but if its something else, I'd like to get that done at the same time. Is there anyplace that does free balance checks for tires? I'd like to knock that one out as a possible issue right away. I know that at least two of the tires are sears brand, so maybe they will.

OK... I knew there was going to be something new. This car has reliability on two fronts... Always gets me to where I need to (eventually), and always finds something new to break. After reading several posts on the subject, I have discovered that it could be anything from timing belts to desperate need of a tire rotation. First off, the symptoms: Abnormal vibrations while steady between 30-40 +/-3 MPH. Continues if performing a non-braking (rolling) stop to ~7 MPH. Continues while not in gear. Continues with engine off (so at least I know its not there). Does not occur while accelerating. Recurrs ~74+ MPH, but may just be from high speed ops. Can occur less than 30, but is rare unless slowing. From inside the car it sounds kind of like whom-whom-whom and does vary with speed. Cannot hear any sounds from outside due to wind/road noise. Vibrations vary with turns in the road, but in no way consistent (i.e. right turn they go up, next right turn they go away, left turn no change, next left turn they go down, etc.). Known issues and possible causes: Driver's front outer CV joint boot torn, no noises from joint that indicate impending failure, however watching it closely. Small bit of TB on tight turns in 4WD due to difference in tire size (I think) front to rear. Vehicle recently towed with rear wheels on ground, in FWD, for ~15-20 miles. Loss of main fan/water pump pulley may have caused damage to underside of car. The person that owned the car before me was mechanically brain dead (hence, all the issues). I am going to rotate the tires this afternoon to see if that clears anything up. Also going to inspect the underside for visible issues. Is there anything else that I should look into? Anything that I can see without resorting to a mechanic?

hehe Think Machinist as in a person's job, and punch as in what pugilists do... Similar to Torpedoman's punch, HT punch, etc. only much stronger. Sometimes used in a group with others, ex: "Go back aft and see where they feed the shaft seals, and while you're back there, get a machinists' punch and a bucket of steam." There's a list of 'em a mile long... but not for this thread

He kinda seems like one of the guys we'd all screw with back on the boat... "Go get me a machinists' punch" kinda deal. So just as long as they aren't relative bearings we'll be ok. Why do I have a feeling this might end up in the O/T area?

I haven' a clue who/what/where/why/whatever the true story behind BGDork, but I've got to hand it to him, this whole thing made me laugh... alot... I hurt now... It was/is a great laugh, thanks all. :headbang: :headbang:

My radiator is toast from recent events, however prior to them I did rewire the electric fan to an in cabin on-off-on switch (all I had at the time) and I did notice a difference on those hot days. Now, and until I get a new rad, that fan is on whenever the car is on (its the only part of the rad that wasn't damaged) and it makes a surprisingly huge difference. So is it needed? Maybe. I'd say it would depend on your situation. If nothing else, do like you said and put in a switch in the cabin. Czar "Hope that was helpful" Mohab

From looking at the hoses, I think this is how it goes: Water pump -> Engine block -> T-stat -> Top rad hose -> Rad -> Bottom rad hose -> Water pump Water pump -> Engine block -> Hot heater hose -> HC -> Cold heater hose -> Water pump Like I said, I *think* this is how it goes. Only things I can imagine it being are 1.) what nipps said, electrical issues or 2.) its so dang hot out that its putting heat into the coolant. It was so hot today that I didn't even need to wait for the car to warm up, it already registered temp on the temp meter/gage thingie. 110F on the digidash thermometer. So on a different note, yet the same... where should the temp gage hang out normally? Mine seems to have taken residence at 50% lately (all the "hot times" not included). Seen it hold both colder and hotter over the last few months. Need to know so when I get new rad in i know its working right.

Quite the analogy I would use. Buck's been your love for a long time. But just like a good horse, if you can't provide for him anymore and someone else can, then don't feel bad. Lots of old horses get sent to "horse retirment" where they get to live happily for their last years, no more work or riders or whatever. Just love and good hay. Don't give up the Buckster if you can give him the love and work he needs. If not, let him move on to greener pastures. I don't want to sound evil, so if I did, I appologize. Sometimes even horses just need new shoes...

Not sure where you can get them, but I would highly recomend "pig matts" for under your car until you get that oil leak found and fixed. They absorb oil and oily products and ignore things like water, and will keep the driveway free from oil stains. Or lots of human hair woven into matts. For some reason it works; they used it in china or something last time there was a big oil spill in the ocean (it was on the news, but it was also like a year ago). Best part there is it can be washed and reused. :banana: Either works better than a cardboard box.

I don't know if you noticed. I don't think anyone did. The dude on the bike in the background. He wants to look. He wants to make a rude comment about the 'ru. I can see it in his face. Well, least you have a car and he has... that bike... Looks really nice. Needs more mud, IMHO.

I honestly think that with as many issues as my car has had in the last 7 months, I should just post a summary of everything that has happened so everyone is up to speed. Nipper: New alternator. No issues noted after installation tests were run, and courtesy check after water pump replacement work was done revealed nothing abnormal, but I will have someone look at it when I get the chance. Hopefully, this is all it is. Dave, et al: Pre-overheat: Water pump pulley, fan, and water wanted to go play on the highway. One of the studs holding it all together sheared (in the water pump drive end) and the other 3 were wanting to. This destroyed the water pump (hence the water on the highway) and cost me over $500 to repair (*&^% schucks and their sales, NEVER AGAIN from them will I buy anything that could cause such damage; but at least I got my money back for the defective pump). Overheat (red zone) time was minimal. When the fan & pulley went, they tried to take the radiator with them hence the warmer car (alot of fins were bent, I spent well over an hour unbending what I could). Car was fixed almost one week ago. Post-repair/overheat: It only climbed into the red zone going over those bloody hills heading into Yakima. Ironically, almost the same spot where all the BS started. Turned heater on to help dissapate the heat (heat sink = heat out so in theory, and as i9t had before, it should work) and after cresting the hill at a measly 20mph, not in the red zone, I left the heater on. Finished the other 2-5 hills (depends on how you call them hills) at 60mph no issues just REALLY warm. Then traveled about 45 miles with the heat on and no real change in engine temp, just not as warm, when I was getting too hot so I turned off the heater. Temp went down. Alot. Got to speed up to the speed limit of 70, too. I understand the physics behind it. I understand the heat transfer stuff behind it. Theories and texts and equations... yeah, I got the idea. Seen some strange stuff in my day (ex navy nuclear operator), but this takes the cake. If Nipps is right, then its no big issue, but if it is something else, then someone please explain to me how in the world a heat sink is adding heat to the engine?

5 pictures were taken in chronological order, and within 20-30 seconds start to finish. I can't seem to get them to upload to this post, but they are in my photo's section. 1st is Temp gage at almost red mark, 2nd is showing heater is on full blast, 3rd shows outside temp, 4th shows temp gage alot cooler 5th shows heater off. Basically, I didn't think that anyone would believe me if I said that the heater being on makes the engine hot... and turning it off makes it cooler... Not the AC or fan on cool, just the heat being on hot. I know that the radiator is more or less a goner, and I am in the process of procuring a new one. But seriously, I have to ask, what strange new disease is plaguing this car? I turned the heat on to help cool it down going over some long, tall hills, and didn't turn it off because it never got cooler again. I decided that it was too bloody hot to have it on and as soon as i turned it of, the car went cold. had to do it all over again so I could get the pics, but other than that, heats staying off for a while

Are you saying you have to pay to tour your jy? I'm very sorry. And I hope with the upcoming move, I still won't have to. I just tell them I want to go look at the 'ru's. What I likes I takes off and pays for... ...except the bolts and washers... and now bulbs. Never thought of that one.

Well through no fault of my own, I stumbled upon the answer. Yes, Yes you can do it. Dumb car... I posted someplace that the high beams like to turn on more or less on their own. Hadn't noticed before, but the lows stay on too. So at least for me to do what you are proposing, my steering column just needs some mechanical agitation (good hit) to jar the switch and both go on. Its only 15 miles from work to where i'm staying, 10 in the darkest dark of all dark, and very little traffic. So, for at least 10 miles, you can have both on no problems. Hope this helped some, and sorry for the delay on the testing.

If I recall correctly, there is a fuse (not sure if it is insert or remove) that changes your beastie from AWD to FWD, so you may only have to play with the fuse. Someone else will either back me up or correct me.

Daeron, you've helped me out of a few things, so hopefully this is helpful to you. The bulbs for our headlights are the same that were (hehe) in the 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I borrowed from my brother's ex wife, and surprisingly the same as the ones in my now long dead 02 Ford Taurus. Both of those vehicles had similar high/low switches to ours, but when you clicked the stick for high on, then off but held it on, both filaments would stay on. I would drive like this for as long as possible at night. Now, I did notice that the lows kick off when the highs kick on on our car; and being creative, I will try to just hold the stick so that both are on. Harder to do on the 'ru, but it should work, and since its darker here (E. Wash vice W. Wash where I kinda used to live) and alot less traffic durring the hours I drive, I can probably get away with it for a good long haul. Sure, *might* run the life out of the filaments, but I haven't ever noticed on the other two. I'll run this test for you and get back to you, but it will be about 4-5 hours before I can see. As to the Jeep, well, I needed new lights. And even with all its troubles, I'd rather have the 'ru. Perhaps if you get the thing wired up and tested and all that, you could post the results for us?

I'll help where I can. 1.) *Probably* not good. Probably very not good. Could be simple fix (tighten drain plug) or something more complex. Does it smoke (blue exhaust)? Is there a puddle and/or associated drip line from a potential leak? Finding the oil leak should find you the appropriate cure. 2.) Why, oh why, would you want to keep the R-12? Aside from the fact that you may not have the $ to convert, there really isn't any good reason to keep it. R-134/134a are now more common and environmentally friendlier. The US Navy still uses R-12 on some (albeit very few) platforms, and even they are converting to 134a.*IF* your AC is out, or you are low on freon, then go get the upgrade, otherwise, I'd say hold out until you can afford to do so. 3.) Ebay. Autoparts store (autozone, napa). Library. Swap-meet. Amazon.com. Poke around through the forum, lots of goodies here too. 4.) Good question. For starters, tune-up, plugs, air filter, air system cleaning, fuel filter, fuel system cleaning, oil & filter, etc... Others will fill you in more on this one. But really, I don't think that there really is all that much you can do that is *simple*. Engine swap to a turbo model, or add a turbo, or swap to a more HP output engine, should net you some extra HPs. I'm pretty sure, though, that that falls outside of *simple* just a bit. 5.) Not 100% sure, so I won't answer this one. 6.) Same as #5. I've never dealt with a 'ru CEL. 7.) Autoparts stores, et al, should offer some interesting add ons. Also, try Ebay, etc, and look around the pics section to see what others have done for some lighting inspiration. As for sounds, well, again, look around autoparts stores, ebay, wherever. Even junkyards if you are happy with a stock radio. One last thing, not 100% sure, but I think even a 92 loyale might fit under "Newer Gen".

I am now equipped with 3 mouse killing products. The pair of Hawks that roost here at work, the Owls that do the same, and mouse bait. I see him again, its dead. Ohhhh... there's the coyotes too... Hehehehehehe. Happy me. *MOUSE* As to the pulley, the hill is about 2 miles up and 2 miles down. Fan fell out about 2 miles before the hill. It didn't give any indication that that was what it was. Pulley fell out going up the hill. Engine got hot, turned it off, coasted enough to peak and go down the hill. Again, I didn't realize what it was until I stopped. Thought it was rocks or some other less important component. That's all part of the long story that I failed to include. Besides, there's things like giant bugs, semi-deadly spiders and snakes, and all kinds of nasties that live around where it popped out. I'm pretty sure it bounded into the grass that grows along side the highway there. Someone heading to Yakima before Manastash ridge (heading east on 82) that chances to see a fan and or pulley, its prolly mine.

OK. Seriously. When should I expect for things to stop breaking? VERY long story short, water pump pulley and fan decided that falling off the car and bounding down the highway at 70mph was a good idea. Pluses: Didn't hit anyone with stray parts; didn't really like that fan anyway. Minuses: the violence of the whole thing broke the internals of the BRAND FREAKING NEW water pump; got stranded on the side of the highway where everyone is either too stuck up to stop and help, or don't read English enough to understand "PLEASE SEND HELP" or "I NEED TO USE YOUR PHONE". I hate Yakima. 3 hours of waiting and trying to make home made repairs is painful. Of note, You cannot make a temporary pulley out of anything plastic. Burger King drink cup bottoms included. The part that hurt the most was looking at the studs that were supposed to hold the pulley/fan on. One sheared off completely. The other three were almost gone themselves. When I get a chance, I'll post a picture, including one of what the old pump looked like, just for a comparison. As of today, I have spent more money on repairs than what I paid for it. Kind of disappointing, really. Two more things. Are 'ru's like salmon, wanting to head back to where they were bought and therefore driving happier? I realize that the entire cooling system got a big shock, but after a few miles it started running warm. The closer i got to Richland (where, way back in 1986-87, the car was bought and kept for 14ish years) the cooler it got in the engine, and the hotter it got outside. and 2, I don't know where, when or how, but I got a mouse in my car. Cute bugger, and quick. Saw him poke his head out from under the hood as soon as I stopped the car. Should I worry? Czar "no response required, just needed a place to vent where someone could laugh" Mohab

Ha ha ha ha... yeah there's a sticker there. yeah I *should* have read that. And deep in the forgotten first chapter of the Hayne's manual, right there in B&W, use Dexron II ATF for the PS fluid. Now since I did put the wrong stuff in, is that going to be detrimental, or is it going to be ok (for the system, the pump I realize is prolly toast either way)? Will the system need flushing out or can I keep it as is? I'm assuming flush, but I have not the time to do such things right now.

ha ha ha ha ... um... ok ... tad late for that. didn't see anywhere written that it was that way, so... So with PS fluid vice ATF, what can I expect to happen? and assuming, say, a small leak at a later date, would ATF with stopleak in it be as effective as say PSF with stop leak? on a similar note, prolly gunna just replace the thing anyway. Kinda tired of all the "original equipment" failing. But I guess thats age for you...

Good news: found the rattle Bad news: can't seem to make it go away. Rattle was from Power Steering Pump & Res. It was low. But now that it is not so low, it still rattles, took most of a bottle of PS fluid to fill, and I think that I could have added more without worry. Would this warrant a PS pump swap/rebuild, or should I just keep fillin it with fluid? I do not see any place where there is an obvious leak, but still... If its just a refill job then I'll just add some stop leak to that and see what happens. Czar "At least its simpler than it could have been" Mohab.

I'm just full of questions, aren't I? OK this one should be simple. Recently, and usually when its colder (like morning or evening) whenever I hit a bump, or turn signal auto-returns, or sometimes just because, the high-beams come on! All by themselves. I'm figuring its the control switch; turning them on then off alleviates the issue until the next bump, but the last thing I need is to get pulled over for this. Could it be something else? Is it an easy fix? Czar "This car is getting annoying" Mohab

Yup. Alternator. Never noticed before, but it was the original that came with the engine. Wonder whats next on the "Original Equipment" list to break... And, sadly, the rattle is still there. There goes my hopes for an easy fix. On the plus side, headlights are a tad brighter now. Go figure.