Bluestone

I grazed something with my drivers side view mirror and now I can't adjust it-left button won't work; mirror too close to door, now,no field of view. How can I fix it? Get button to work, again.

The coin tray in the dash of my 2000 Sube came out and I'm having fits trying to get it back in place. Any suggestions?

The indie shop that I used for some work on my Sube says that the cooling system conditioner treatment is just psychological….it doesn't really work but in my experience it does work for a few thousand miles and then the coolant seepage resumes. Anyway, as I understand it, as long as the coolant level in the reservoir is kept up there's normally no overheating to contend with unless perhaps the thermostat, waterpump or radiator cooling fans fail or belts break. I'm referring here to the 2.5L engine of course. This past summer I drove my 2000 Legacy wagon in 90-100˚ F weather for extended periods with the A/C going full blast and the temp indicator remained in the lower quadrant of the gauge…. the cooling system handled the hot weather driving with aplomb.

I'd imagine that towing anything, certainly anything fairly heavy, would, eventually, take its toll on the clutch, no? I guess that it's not a problem if that issue doesn't matter to ya.

I'm using NGK G-Power platinum plugs #BKR6EGP. They're not expensive...I think that they're no more than $3 a piece. Smooth, responsive power in my 2000 Legacy wih these installed. I've also got NGK SP wires as well. I always smear some anti seize compound on the plugs' threads before installing them....makes for easy removal later on. I don't use a torque wrench but tighten by hand; never had a problem with overtightening

My 2000 Legacy with MT does the same thing after a cold start…..was fine during spring and summer weather but now that it's getting chilly, it happens every time. Could someone post pictures of where the idle air control valve and temp sensor are located? Can they be effectively cleaned?

PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads....they're kevlar ceramic, offer superb braking power and fade resistance. They're available for $50 front and $40 rear. I also put DBA slotted rotors on the front with the PBR/Axxis pads front and rear...incredibly good system. The PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads don't last quite as long as some of the pricier pads but their performance is second to none. Truly outstanding!

Any thoughts about the newer smaller oil filters being less efficient than the original larger ones? Think that they're good for 3k miles of effective filtration? Or would you just go for for larger filters instead? I'm focusing here on non turbo applications. I would think that for turbo engines, the smaller filters give only marginal protection.

Do you or anyone have a photo or drawing showing where the idle air controller is located?

After starting up with a cold engine, the idling speed on my 2000 Legacy wagon will surge to 3k RPM. It'll drop back down if I goose the gas pedal. Any adjustments that I can easily make at my end to eliminate the too fast cold idle? There's no snow and ice here, just temps ranging from 35° F - 65° F.

Yeah, sell it and buy a high mpg vehicle when you get back. With gas prices likely $6-$10 per gallon by then, a WRX does make a lot of sense.

On further checking wheel bearing replacement cost in my neck of the woods, it seems that $350-$400 is closer to the going rate. One indie garage says that they actually do use a hub tamer when replacing bearings; says that they replace "an awful lot" of Subaru wheel bearings.....Subaru wheel bearings are not of the highest metallurgical standards and rarely last 100k miles. Also AWD is harder on wheel bearings than 2 WD.

Can anyone point me to evidence showing conclusively that Subaru's pricey OEM coolant IS, in fact, superior in performance to lower priced ones? I'm looking for FACT, not opinion.

165k miles? Hah! My Sube is pretty low mileage with just 64k miles on it. The bearing in question (LF) was replaced under warranty at 15k miles.

A front wheel bearing on my 2000 Sube is getting noisy and needs to be replaced. The going rate here in the East Bay , Northern California area for wb replacement is $500(it's a 4 hour job at $100 per hour). The bearing noise is currently not loud. At what point does the bearing noise indicate that it demands attention?