Cold Chuck
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Location
Colo. Spgs, CO
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Vehicles
'87 Wagon GL 1800L carb
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Possible problem with front axle (FIXED)
Cold Chuck replied to Cold Chuck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sube, Got it from this guy... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Right-CV-Axle-Shaft-85-85-SUBARU-ALL-SUBARU-All-Engine_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3efca048c3QQitemZ270526335171QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories and it delivered in 4 days by UPS with tracking #. It is quiet and no more vibration or pulling anymore. I bought this on GD's recommendation. Works well for me. GD, I think both shafts are orginial. Car is 76,000 miles. The shafts has hump in the shaft and splined socket ends where EMPI are smooth shaft with smooth outer diameter of the sockets. The bearing cage just broke apart in 4-5 pieces and the balls was just between the socket (hub side) and the shaft end and thusly no power transferred to the socket. I apprecate your insights and time honored experience. I was, too, suprised to see it as I thought it would be driver's side problem given that it kept trying to pull the car to the left. Strange. Chim, I hope this is this is the last job I'll do. I'm a long time heavy truck diesel tech and used to getting BFH on everything. You could probably rebuild a older CAT 3406 engine with a hammer and crescent wrench. Right now, I run the shop not the tools. -
Possible problem with front axle (FIXED)
Cold Chuck replied to Cold Chuck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Car finally quit moving. Found that pass side outer joint failed completely and the shaft was spinning but not transferring power to the hub. Put it in 4WD and went home. Next day, I pulled tire, brake caliper unbolted the swaybar link to lower arm, unbolted lower arm to chassis. Unpinned the axle and removed castle nut, simply tapping the axle end with a hammer and pulled axle out. Put on antiseize on splines, bearing surfaces and reassemble whole thing. Just for kicks, I removed the boot on old failed shaft, found the ball bearing cage shattered and ball just fell out of the race. This failure is on passenger side outside joint. Inner joints are ok. Drivers' side shafts are ok but I replaced both sides anyways. Whole thing took me 3 hours or so. I have air compressor and impact tools. ON EDIT: the boots are not torn or leaking. Grease still present and not milky or degraded anything like that. Just failed bearing. -
A lesson learned: Decades ago, I was working for small car shop doing oil changes. One day, I was in a hurry and distracted abit, I performed LOF on a car and parked outside. Next morning, my boss got a phone call from customer saying there is a puddle of oil in driveway. He had it towed back to shop, I looked at it and found the drain plug had fallen off. An old timer told me this which I do pass on to my younger charges these days.... DO NOT PUT ANY HARDWARE (bolts, plugs, clamps, etc....) BACK ON ANYTHING WITHOUT TOOLS TO TIGHTEN FIRST AND DO ONE THING AT TIME. What he meant is that unless if you have the tool in your hand, do not reinstall the hardware back on because sometimes you can get distracted by something and forget to tighten. I hope this helps.
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Can I Not trust any garage anymore? :(
Cold Chuck replied to hatchsub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I am still ASE master certified medium and heavy duty tech with L2 endorsement. I worked for Kenworth, Peterbilt, International and Mack dealerships for decades then I left to work for fleet shop (mining) and now I am no longer wrenching, I'm one of those few guys working in managment and still have full set of tools in 90 something inches long toolbox. I have more than few guys in 60's and 70's years of age still wrenching on large equipment. Granted they don't do much of electrical/electronics work but they still work with their arthritics hands and back. I am always grateful for their years of exeperience and care in doing the job done right the first time. The higher ups in management always wants to increase productions but reality hits that in order to keep the overall cost down and increase reliability, we must take the time to do the repairs and preventive maintenance properly. In dealerships, I pretty much have seen them all as mechanic, lead mechanic and foreman. Some of things really disgust me more than service writer lying to the customers in order to 1) save company's face or 2) increase the bonus of service writer. Most of the truck dealer mechanics are not flat rate and they don't earn bonus at all. And yet, they have tool truck accounts, uniforms fees, safety boots, some of them have to pay off student loans, insurance premiums (believe me insurance rates for blue collar jobs are lot higher than white collar jobs!! ). -
Possible problem with front axle (FIXED)
Cold Chuck replied to Cold Chuck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
ordered 2 EMPI 80-5504 axles off ebay 51.95 each. -
Possible problem with front axle (FIXED)
Cold Chuck replied to Cold Chuck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
So is there a hand test to shake to see what falls out? Lift vehicle and shake the shaft to confirm? -
Gents, While driving in 1987 wagon GL with 5 speed DR, it makes ticking noises (somewhere in the front) under power and goes away when coasting. Steering is fine. Now what is strange is that after sometime on highway that the steering wheel keeps tugging (like a child trying to pull and let go and pull again over and over) to the left and smoothes out when going faster than 45 mph. The steering wheel tugging gets real bad only when accelerating from slow speed or from stop and it goes away only when coasting or braking (no power). When the car is cold - it does not do that (exepting the noise) but when after driving for 10 or so miles -it occurs and progressively worse. Putting into 4wd makes little effect. Does that mean the driver's side CV joint is failing? If so, does anyone have a EMPI part number for both front axle? I dont know how many spline counts I have in the transmission. What about possible spider problem inside front diff? thanks
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front drive shaft angle
Cold Chuck replied to Cold Chuck's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
GD, I realize that scenario but perhaps I wasnt clear before, I am asking for general rule of thumb based on experience on what worked and what didn't For instance, it was said before that you can lift a GL up to 2-3 inches before you have to lower the transmission down in order to preserve the lifespan of the CV joints during typical street/light trail driving. Perhaps I should be asking for recommendation on what brand or make CV joints that I should consider in place of existing Subaru axle shafts. We could weld on parts together to make things work better or last longer at steeper angle. I take any of you and other member's word at my own risk and make best decision. -
Esteemed folks, I need to know what is the maximum operating angle of the front drive shaft before it falls out of the sockets on EA82 with MT 5 speed dual range. I am considering installing subaru eA82 drivetrain and engine into a small buggy for trail riding (no extreme rock climbing and speed limited to 30 mph). I have angle protractor tool. Any thoughts? Thanks a bunch fo your assistance. Stay warm.
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After reading 1987 FSM. I think I got air injection system if I am not mistaken. Those two black canisters on both sides of engine are silencers, correct? If so, what do I need to do to remove this completely? Crimp the steel pipes that leads out of the exhaust side of the heads - will that work? Any ideas? That big round sphere tank and other stuff I believe its cruise control and I have not confirmed it yet so I'll leave it alone as I do want cruise control feature. thanks
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This is my car looking at passenger side fender. Do you see a grapefuit sided black ball? What is that for? Also there is a electrical vacuum valve above that ball (little to the right) - what that is for? Anything do you see that needs to be removed? This is my car looking at driver's side. Do you see the black box that is connected to exhaust system underneath and to crankcase vent plumbing system.? what shoud I do about it and for pass side circular canister also (not in photo)? thanks
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Yes got them. Problem 1 is that my wagon has grape fruit sized vacuum reservior. Donor car does not. Is this part of cruise control? It is mounted on passenger side of fender above the axle. Problem 2, there are round plastic canister located on rear side of the pass side cylinder head. it was connected to egr valve and to air intake and to pass side exhaust manifold or exhaust side of head. Donor car does not have them. Problem 3. there are sqaure plastic canister on drivers side of the cylinder head right by the disty. It is connected also to drivers side exhaust manifold/or to exhaust side of the head. It is connected to the air filter. Donor car does not have it either. What to do with them? Thanks. I have photos but I can't upload it for some reason.
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For past few days I have been reading up both write ups on conversion. Today, I went to u-pull yard and pulled entire wiring harness from ECM all the way to the head light. That includes two relays and 4 relay banks, fuse panel and so on. I did not sever any wiring. I left all the wiring harness under dash panel alone. Pulled intake manifold assembly and all stuff that is attached to intake manifold. I pulled entire fuel pump and bracket and hoses. Is that all that I need to pull? Oh by the way my car is 1987 Wagon GL converted to 5 speed dual range from 3 speed auto. It has factory a/c and cruise control. It had carb but Im pretty sure its not california but it has wiring to the carb itself. The donor car is 1988 legacy with 5 speed and no automatic seat belt and it does not have a/c. ECM is black color. All subarus in the yard has exhaust pipe cut off right at the head and removed the center portion (cat?). :-\ Where do I install O2 sensor on and where do I get the bung to weld on? When I got home I started on my car and noticed that my car has more devices than the donor car so I will need assistance in determining what stays and what goes into the trash. I'll be sending up photos. thanks.
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Okay. What does it take for me to get possession of all the parts I need to convert my 1987 EA82 49 state carb to SPFI setup? thanks
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I may be interested in SPFI setup to convert my carb to SPFI. If you give me fair price and what you have already to convert to SPFI setup, I might buy them. My email is vestharris (at) comcast net.