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Everything posted by cobcob
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No oil pressure, clicky valves...
cobcob replied to Ether Circus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'd be all over it if it was in Missouri!:-\ -
At least the bed will stay a bit drier on the return trip! All the best!
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'70 FF1 Coupe JY N/E Calif.
cobcob replied to worknwood's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
+1 on the need for saving this one!! Heck, if the owner needs some "coercing" I'd probably be able to chip in a little $$ if needed... not a lot but it'd be worth it to me to see that car saved -
If you called them to cancel they know you don't need it so I wouldn't be fussed... Worst case they call you and you say "I tried to cancel the order"
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Order the $10, then call NAPA and tell them that you don't need the one they're ordering
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5th post down in the thread I linked ==================== Ditto dudes and babes. I've scored about five or six parts from them. They are going out of business so grab em while you can. Ridiculously low prices. I scored some wagon trunk lid supports for like $2.00 ===================== If the $10 don't work then at least you KNOW that NAPA will have one
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This thread was posted earlier today about them... others gave good reports... I have no experience with them myself though
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I believe it's a going out of business sale...
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Ohhh! That's a pretty Brat! kinda the evil twin to mine, urs being black and mine white and all that... Digging the topper, I like it better than the low one I've got... And I'd KILL for a high console with arm rest... that's the one thing I wish mine came with! Incidentally, I think that your post has influenced my Brat, the switch in mine has decided it wants to be ornery, I have to push the key in while turning to get it to start, and even then I have to do it a coupla times before I get any response out of it I'm adding it to the list of things to do this weekend along with valve adjustment, oil change, tune up and vac out the interior.
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THIS...THREAD...IS...USELESS...WITHOUT...PICS!! If it's giving multiple clicks try tapping the end of the starter with a hammer, if that don't work it may also be the starting solenoid...
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Rear Wheel Bearing removal tool?
cobcob replied to Numbchux's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'd suspect that it's been dumped from their catalog due to the age... It might be in their paper catalog if he has a copy and can be bothered/coerced into looking... -
That should do the trick just fine! definately got long enough thread... how many didya get? I run 4 on mine, 2 front and 2 back per side, I'm sure that you could use 2 in a pinch, maybe 1 front left and 1 back right just to get ya back to Lowes...
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Rod/crank bearings?
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Direct from HTKYSA... "Transmissions: The engine has an optimum rpm range that gives you the best economy, power, and longevity. This range is basically between 2,300 rpm and 3,700 rpm. Driving with the engine below this range is called "lugging" the engine, and driving with engine above the optimum range is called "over-revving. " For economy driving, it's generally best to keep the rpms to the lower end of the range rather than the higher end. There are exceptions, though. For example, it's better to shift to a lower gear when going up a steep hill so the engine is turning easily at a higher rpm rather than lugging and struggling along at a lower rpm. The tachometer (if your model has one) enables you to keep the engine speed in the proper rpm range. If you don't have a tachometer, you can learn to regulate the rpms by the sound of the engine. Manual transmissions: You can easily use the transmission gears to keep the engine within its optimum range under varying circumstances. While driving, don't rev the engine to the top of the rpm range between every shift; just rev it high enough so that when you shift up through gears, the engine will still be turning fast enough so it won't bog down or lug when you release the clutch. Shift up to higher gears as soon as you can without slowing the engine below the optimum rpm range."
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Any excuse to bash some back roads! Course the coppers around my area don't take to kindly to the "no insurance/no plates" thing so I might just have to put it in the drive way and free rev a bit. To answer the previous Q, the vac switch tests fine, I haven't been able to test the light yet though...
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Just throwing some suggestions out there, check ur fuel filter and lines... maybe some crud in the filter that moves around a little...
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I haven't driven it much yet, down the road and back but due to it not wanting to idle and I live on a bad dirt road I'm not really able to do a road test too easily, it dies if I try to let it idle down the road. It does run OK at increased RPMs, not smoking at all though... It WAS smoking before I replaced the MAF sensor. I've been advised to check the fuel pressure regulator as well as seeing if one of the injectors might be sticking open... I haven't had a chance to get a compression tester just yet, they'd sold out at Harbor Freight when I was there the other day!
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It's not a complete eye bolt though, it's more of a "J" shape... In a pinch you could get by with some threaded rod, washers and nuts. I'd be pretty sure that you'll be able to find something that will work at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards (not sure what you have in your area) or Fastenal...
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Someone rocked my Hatch.. can anyone help??
cobcob replied to SuBaRiNo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Not a problem mate! Glad to help you out!! I'm still trying to figure out a cheap way to get you another hatch body but I don't see that happening until I win Tatts! -
Excellent! Thanks a million Jerry! really appreciate it! I'll scan it in and email it to ya as soon as it arrives... PM me your email addy
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Wow! Guess I shift waaaay low compared to you guys then! I've been driving my '82 Brat for almost 2 weeks now and I tend to shift around 4000 and let 'er cruise around 3200... (4spd EA81) I'll probably be a bit more comfortable winding 'er up a bit more once I've had the time to do my valve adjustment and tune up...
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Here's a snap of the bolt that I have holding my top down... there are 2 on each side of the bed, they hook into the load tie in points on the wall of the bed. My topper can't weigh more than 30-40 lbs... If it didn't flop around so much I'm sure I'd be able to lift it myself, it's just so dang awkward to try and carry alone...
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Mine has some stainless steel 'hook bolts' that hook into the load tie in points on the wall of the bed and then slip through a small piece of tubing welded to the frame of the topper, I'll snap some pics and upload them first thing tomorrow if you'd like... a picture's a lot better than my hacked up words:headbang:
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I managed to score a little time with the wagon the other day when my wife wasn't looking... not too long, just enough to check and confirm that the vac switch connected to the turbo light is still good. I also fired it up with the garage door shut (haven't done that before, always have the door open) and she's running so rich that a very short time running the engine made my eyes water for about a minute! Starting to suspect maybe the ECU is jacked up...
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Having just begun to reaquaint myself with the joys of driving an older manual I owe it to this thread for reminding me of double clutching... been about 6 years since I last double clutched my way through the gears and I'm loving it now as much as I did before! I'd be +1 on the tow dolly... I found them locally for $45 a day at Uhaul, some of your local rental shops may be cheaper/hour