cobcob

My reply in the other post was to try and give him some pointers on things to check... I've been working a lot of overtime this week so I haven't had a chance to tinker with the GL-10T, hopefully I'll be able to wrench on it a bit this weekend, I'll check the MAF again (it tested OK a week or so ago) but it could well be the ECU...

I'm fighting the SAME problem with my 88GL10T wagon... Still haven't found the problem at all, things I've checked are cam and distributor timing, vac leaks, spark plugs seated properly, distributor in properly (not 180 deg out) intake manifold bolted down properly, AAV functioning correctly... Still no joy at all, I can get it to idle if I remove the inlet piece from the turbo to the throttle body but then it idles at 2k rpm! Not sure if any of that will help you at all but it's some things to consider

Lugnuts?? We don't need no stinkin lugnuts!! Just drill through your wheel stud and slap a split pin in there then duct tape 'er up she'll be right!

Found these online... $162.81 each but dang they're pretty! (5 bolt pattern shown) clicky "We are proud make 15"x6" 10 spoke Superlite Wheels available for 4x140mm Subarus, pictured below. They differ from the standard 8 spoke design in that they have a lager hub section that accommodates the larger bolt pattern."

Ya know, if I can find one (or 4) that I can ship back for a reasonable price I'd be happy to!

Awesome!! I might look you up when I'm in Melbourne this coming Easter, my olds live just North of Sunbury... Lotsa wheelin and rally driving to be had through the Wombat state park and Lerderderg on the North side of Melbourne, I used to love tearing round the back side of the Dandenongs late at night too

Here's some info that might start you on your search... "Some people use the OEM A/C compressor for their vehicle. Most people, however, use the York-style A/C compressors used by AMC, Ford, Volvo, Porsche, IH, and Oldsmobile in the '70's and early '80's" linky JY time!!

Here's the link for the LSD conversion pics How To

not sure about a vac diagram... I'm at work right now and the car is 30 miles away... I do have vac diagrams from Alldata and my *spit* chilton's manuals though so I'll go over them also

Thanks guys The original MAF was causing the ECU to throw the 33 code, replaced it and the code went away. (the '88 MAF is the hot wire style so there's no flapper to open or close) The turbo appears to be OK, it spins and if I rev the engine a bit with the turbo-throttle body piece removed I can hear the turbo spooling as well as feel the output from the turbo. I removed the oil check tube last night while I was wrestling with the timing belt covers, I'll double check that when I re-install. I'm going to check the distributor again tonight, I just popped the cap off last night to check if the rotor was in place properly. Could be that it is 180 deg out but the engine runs fine at higher RPM so I don't think that's the problem. I know the check valve in the brake booster line is bad, when I pulled that hose off and discovered the cracked end, the spring and ball came out of the tube also, can't get it to go back together right so I'm going to have to get a new check valve. I'm down to picking at obvious things now (probably where I shoulda started) going to check that all the spark plugs are seated, also going to run a coat hanger through the turbo-throttle body piece to make sure there's not a rag or something stupid stuck in there although there doesn't seem to be.

OK, officially flummoxed... yep, flummoxed... checked the cam belts just now, they're set correctly, middle mark on the flywheel lined up with the mark on the housing, left sprocket mark is down, right sprocket (drivers) is pointing up. Checked the plug wires are all connected correctly and the rotor is firmly attached to the shaft... any other suggestions? One thing I did notice when removing my battery for charging is that there's a black wire coming out of the fusible link block that goes directly onto the +ve terminal of the battery I assume that's the correct spot for it but there's no crimp terminal on the end of the wire, it's just sandwiched under the bolt on the battery I'll be in the garage threatening the engine with a 12 gauge to see if I can scare it into some form of normalcy...

I've seen it done on some trail rigs, mostly Suzuki Samurai's and Geo Trackers... Makes sense, won't scratch easy and it'll hold the rust in place

Good thing you can get them through Rockauto then isn't it? On the Brat, looks great! Wish I had been able to get the one I was looking at but the seller thought it was made out of solid gold as bad as he was on the pricing...

Edit... scratch that... I'm an idiot

Good luck at the DMV, it can be the armpit of satan in there some days!

+1 for the axle boot... if no clicky clicky when turning then you can probably get away with replacing the boot... if the boot's not torn it's still most likely your axle, which is, of course, an excuse for us to hit some junkyards and find us some parts cars!!

Boy Howdeee!!

Looks just like mine!

*slaps forehead* nope haven't had the time to wrestle the covers off yet...

I haven't checked the timing yet, need to get a timing light. I have no idea if the intake gaskets are upside down or not, the car is in the same condition that I bought it in, I'm about to the point of pulling the engine entirely and starting from the ground up (so much for a quick repair project!)

OK, Tried it last night with the test connectors hooked up, still no idle. tried adjusting the idle speed screw, still no idle. Found a vacuum leak in the line to the brake booster, also seems that the check valve in that line is bad because the brake pedal 'floats' with the RPM of the engine (more gas, the pedal moves away from the floor)

Too bad they 'fell off' on the road when the exhaust rusted out right? *wink wink*

No trouble codes, no leaks, haven't tried the test connectors yet... I guess I'll try the idle screw tonight when I get home...

Sounds like you've got way too many terminal problems with that car and you'd better give it to me...

I thought of that late last night. Put it all back together and I've got a non-idling situation. I have to give it a bit of gas to get it to stay running, it'll run for about a second or 2 and then die off. I hardly have time to crank it over (reaching through the window) and then jump to the front of the car and grab the throttle cable to try and keep it running. If I back off the gas it'll sputter and jerk, maybe run for a second or so and then die.