x_25

It has 48,000 miles on it. The car was my fathers when we put the engine in so he is the one that bought it. I haved asked him to call but he hasn't done so yet. When he got it the warenty was 3 years or 36,000 miles. And yes, we kept up on all maintinace on this car, I just think it is cursed. This is the third time it needs and engine out repair in the last 60,000 miles.

Piston slap is what I hear with cold starts I know that sound. This isn't that. Here is what it is doing (it is quieter when cold with thick oil.) And if it isn't rod knock it is still a disassemble the engine sound. I could do a 2.2 swap, but I need to find the time to do that. Will it just drop right in?

Well, I have a 1999 Subaru Outback auto with 166,000 miles and a 48,000 mile CCR rebuilt engine in it. It's got bunches of little dents and some rust in the usual spots. The drivers door is dented in from where it was hit by a tire and hits the quarter panel when you open it, the rocker panel is dented from the same tire and has some rust forming where the paint was taken off by the impact. Now, the big problem, it has rod knock. Getting the car fixed will cost more than it is worth, and I don't have time to fix it myself. Do I junk it? Sell it for parts? I need some ideas here, I would like to get a little back out of it. It also has a set of Nokian WR (not the GR2's) that I spent months tracking down and have ~7k miles on them. I have bought a civic to hold me over until I can find something to replace it (don't want to drive the civic during the winter). As far as replacement goes, I was thinking a 2003 OBS with a 5 speed (if I can find one). Would the tires swap between the two cars?

Thanks for the info guys. I have an auto so the FWD fuse is in. I am waiting for the junkyards to open up so I can get something. I just need to get through the week, then I will keep it as a full sized spare.

I blew a tire yesterday and the new one won't be in until next weekend. I need to be able to get around for the weeks (about 300 miles) so I was thinking I would call around to the junk yards Monday morning and see if I can find a rim with a tire on it that is usable for a week (with the FWD fuse in obviously, don't want to replace the clutch). I need to figure out what years/models have rims that will fit on my 99 Outback.

Well, I found one, it just won't be in until next weekend.

Well, I was making a left, the guy on the other side of the road (also making a left) pulled a bit wide, while avoiding him I hit the center median hard. I pull over too check it out and there are two 1/2" gashes in the side wall of my brand new Nokain WR (not the G2). I spent a month waiting for these to come in, they were the last 4 that STS Tire and Auto center had. Now I need to find one more. I had them put on November 7th and have put around 1,000 miles on them. Anyone know where I could find one in 205/70/R15?

Check it out, brand new Nokian WR (not the G2's). Also, this is going to be my 150,000 mile picture, even though I am about 8,000 miles late taking it.

The big thing is there is a long rusty bolt in a hard to reach place that needs to be taken out to do it. If it breaks I will be there all day with the drill getting it out. As far as alignment, that side happens to be out a bit anyway (inside of the tire is worn more than the outside) so I need to get the alignment done anyway.

Ok, I just got my new (rebuilt) axle from MWE Axle's. Quick service and got what I needed. Problem is, some flanges on it are bent. I want to know if these ride against the seals or if they just keep crud out. Here is what I am talking about. Also, are there any seals that need to be replaced when I do this? And because of salt rust I do not want to pop the ball joint because I am afraid I will break the bolt. Can I pop it out of the control arm with a puller? If so how does this compare to doing it by disconnection the strut? Thanks, x_25

I haven't fixed it yet. Life has been busy. None of the gauges are mechanical. They are all electronic and each has its own flexible circuit board thing.

That is a good idea, see if I can't figure out where the problem actually is. Although with how randomly it works and doesn't work, I have a sneaking suspicion that it may be caused by tachyon interference...

Cool, now I just need to get to the junkyard when it is open.

I cleaned all the screws and contacts about 1,500 miles ago and it didn't do anything. Will it be obvious where to use the screw driver to set the odometer?

Well, my car developed the intermittent speedometer problem about 500 miles after I bought it. Been living with it for the last 5,000 miles or so keeping track of miles via fuel usage. Well, I have procrastinated long enough and need to replace it. Any suggestions where to get one and how much it would be? Also, what other years would work in a 99 OBW? There is a junkyard near me with a 97 legacy and a 97 OBW (I think, looks just like nippers car though). And is there any way to set the mileage on the odometer? I would like to set it to what mine currently reads plus the amount it is off. Just in case there are differences between models. It is a 99 OBW, auto trans, with ~140,000 miles on it.