neximile

Hello, I am trying to post pictures of my Subaru. Any help on how to post pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thank You very much Djellum. I will do that.

Thank You very much Naru. I will do that. I also just found this when I removed the hood over the turbo. A wiring harness was wrapped around it and it appears to be damaged. One end of it goes to the carburator and starting solenoid. Could that be the problem? Need to edit this post. Looking at it again. I see that one end of the wiring harness goes to the distributor and starting solenoid. Not the carburator. Djellum, you are right. There is no carburator in our XT. Sorry for the missspeak.

Hello, We have a 1986 xt turbo. one day it started bogging down, runnuing very rough. Than it stalled. Now when I start it it revs very very high (2-3000 rpms. Have to shut it off quiickly. Also sounds like the turbo is running.. Anyone have any thoughts? Also, how can I check the ECU codes on this? Thanks.

Absolutely FAntastic! That's what you guys are., I found the coolant sensor and pulled the connector to look at. It was green with corrosion. I cleaned it up and put it back in and VOILA! The XT is running like a dream. NO ECS light anymore and no stalling. And it starts up immediately everytime with no need to push on gas pedal !! I am Flabbergasted!. I don't know how long i would have been rooting around trying to figure out what was wrong. And you guys pinned it down right off the bat. Thanks much Ruparts and MilesFox. You saved us alot of time, trouble and money! We've benefited alot from looking st this forum. Hope someday to be able to repay the favor to someone else in need. Hope you all had a great Memorial Day. God Bless America, And all in our Armed Forces! You ARE America!

Hi Ruparts, Thanks much for the info! I tried getting codes by turning the ignition to the "on' position(not starting up engine) and this is what the ECU flashed for me. Code 13 and code 33. If I read them correctly. ie. 3 longs and 3 short means 33, is that correct? Anyway, For 1984 through 1986 Fuel Injected Models I read that code 13 = "Starter Switch On" and 33 is "Coolant Sensor or Circuit". I would not have thought that the coolant sensor would have that effect but now it sounds like a real good lead after what you say about the problems with those sensors. I will find it and give it a look and let you know what I find. Thanks for the the quick reply. Again I say "The folks on this forum are awesome!"

Hello, Our 1986 turbo xt 1.8 fuel inj subie starts easy first thing but laterr in the day is harder starting. Also, after its driven and warmed up( maybe 5 min.) than it tends to want to stall (All of a sudden Goes down to 3000 rpms)and has no power when pushing on the gas pedal. Have to keep foot on accelerator to keep rpm's up .After a while( maybe 5 min it seems to return to normal but might act up at any time. Sometimes it seems like it stalls easier when heading or sitting on a downhill slant. ECS light has been staying on more frequently. Any ideas/input will be appreciated. Last few times we accessed the forum for help you guys were awesome . With your help I did things I didn't know I could do . Thanks

Much Thanks! to everyone. I will check the cable ( Hopefully without disturbing the bezel). Ill let you knwo what I find.

Anyone know how to troubleshoot the speedometer on a 1986 turbo xt. It is a digital dashboard. The rpm's work and also everything else but the MPH part does not work. Thanks.

TURBONE AND NORTHWET!!!!! ......You both have my undying gratitude! It worked. Even though the governor looked in good shape, as you suggested I went ahead and opened it up and deburred and cleaned it as best I could. That link you sent me, Turbone, was awesome. Whoever wrote that piece did a great job. Very easy to follow. Put it back together, started it up crossed my fingers said a litttle prayer and took it for a test drive. BAM! Shifted smooth as silk. Can't thank you enough. Did not have money to spend on fixing it or buying one. Hope this lasts for a while. My wife is overjoyed. She says to thank you guys too. Also thanks to All_Talk, Skip, Kibs45 and GeneralDisorder who's posts I read and all lead to same conclusion. This Forum is great!! AND YOU GUYS HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!....Mile and Jill http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc252/neximile/subie1.jpg

Thank You for your input Northwet. I was thinking about doing that very thing. Can't hurt I guess. I certainly appreciate Turbone and you giving me advice. It sure beats flying blind. If this doesn't work out, at least I've gotten some education out of it. Makes me wonder if I could have fixed the cars I've owned in the past that had tranny work done to them. You know what they say; "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"..... Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what I find.

tahnks again Turbone. I guess thats what I'll try next. Hopefully it does the trick. Tell me this if you can. Will we be able to drive it around manually using 2nd gear for a while if we keep the rpms around 30-3300?

Yes. I had already drained and replaced the fluid and the filter. The fluid was dirty but no large amount of metal specs in it. The filter had a hole in the metal screen! Never saw that before. So I replaced it but still have the same problem.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc252/neximile/101_2489.jpg Just removed the governor. Looks in very good condition. No apple coring at all. The valve/plunger spring assebly moves very freely with no binding at all. Should I take apart and clean anyway? If this is good what else can I look at/for. The transmission modulator looks kind of cruddy. Should I try replacing that. Thanks.

Thanks Turbone. I was able to get to that link in my serching endeavors and it seems to have provided all the info that I need to get started on the governor. I have located the governor and am about to take it out. Hopefully all goes well.