mudman

Great information. So the direct fit is the 3rd gen maxima 90 amp alternator with the grooved pulley. Change the pulley out and presto, it fits perfectly. As far as changing the pulley, can I use the pulley from my 79 brat alternator (I doubt that it will fit from what I've read using search), or do I have to order one? Would I have to bore, key and machine a pulley, or is there something available off the shelf?

Looks like any maxima 85 and above has a serpentine belt pulley. Do you just change this pulley out? The 1984 and below maximas look like a better fit (from pics on rock auto) but those are 60 Amp alts. Which one is the right one? Attached are the pics of the 2 alternators from rockauto. I probably need the 90 amp alt, I have fried 2 stock subaru alternators already. Lots of lights. I just want to make sure it fits with little to no problem. A little fabrication is not a problem, I've got the tools.

I see that the GM 7157 alternator fits on EA81's. and 82's. Will it also fit on the EA71? I hate this voltage regulator and 55 amp deal that I have now. I need to do the swap, but I may want to try a one wire. Are there any one wires that fit as easily as the 7157, or should I stick with a 7157, like most have done?

Do the Reman Alternators from Autozone have an internal voltage regulator in them. This is for a EA71 in a 79 brat. I thought that it would be in the alternator, but my charging system is reading 16V and above. Is this correct, or are there any consequences to this? The Alternator is brand new.

Awsome, what model and year should I order from for the EA81 distributor. I know that my EA71 is from a 79 brat.

I have an EA71 with the electronic control module mounted on the coil bracket and Electronic Disty. Looks like this module is around 500 bucks. The one that I have is working (if it aint broke.....), but I think that the disty is going. I am really looking for a suggestion. I can buy a reman disty to go with the ECM for 120 bucks, and I'll be running. Or I can go with a point style disty for around 70 bucks. I realize that the ECM is a better setup, but if the ECM goes out, its 500 in the bucket. How often do these things fail? If I go with the point style, what would need to be done to make this switch? Seems like I just get rid of the ECM and go from the coil to the point style disty. Is this correct, or is there more to it?

I changed out the alternator last night and I am now getting 14.5V, but it still seems to have a bad idle. I then blocked the EGR and it went from sounding poor, back to sounding great, but only for about 2 minuites. The EGR was blocked, the PCV valve blocked, new alternator, and the valve covers venting to atmosphere. Should sound great at idle, but it still does not. Oh yeah, the entire engine was rebuilt about 6 months ago. It sounded great for quite a while and all of a sudden it just started this crap. I started checking the Disty. How much play should it have at the rotor? I have maybe .003 horizontal and maybe as much as .006 up and down. Is this too much? Perhaps this is my idle problem? It still purrs at 3000 rpm no matter what is hooked up or blocked off. But when I pump the gas a few times, the engine starts right up and sounds great until that fuel is exhausted. Maybe carb problems? What should I be looking for? Carb is rebuilt and should be worry free. I have a fuel filter, so there should not be any trash in there. Don't know much about the Webers either. It is narrowed down to either disty or carb. Is there any way to trouble shoot these items without buying something new. A reman disty is around 125 bucks, and I'm not ready to spend that yet.

Well, I plugged the PCV valve, and it ran the same with or without it. I am going to plate off the EGR. Seems to me to be the alternator. Is it possible that a defective alternator and a weak battery would cause the engine to stumble on idle? Would it throw a weak spark across the plugs? I just dont get it. If the spark is weak at idle, wouldn't it be weak at higher rpm also? If I pump the gas a few times it will idle, so it seems that I can rule out spark. I'm completely confused here.

I removed the entire alternator, and taped the wires. Starts right up now, but I think that it is trying to trick me. I dont think it likes me very much. I hit the gas a few times, and it seemed responsive. This is of course after I charged the battery back up.

I was running the other day and now my engine won't idle. I have this 1979EA71 in a boat. I just got a weber from Jerry and man oh man, the thing was running fine. I noticed that the volt meter was at 12V when I left the dock, and then up to 16V at 3000 rpm. It then dropped back down to 12V, probably because I fried it. By the time it started running bad, I was at 10V. It would not idle, but would run fine at 2000 rpm. At idle the engine would pulse, and then die within a few seconds. Well, I got it home, and if I pump the gas, it will run for a few seconds and die. Seems to me a vac leak, or carb problems. I plugged the PCV valve and it would run, but very rough. So now I'm thinking PCV valve. Changed it, and no difference. I charged the batery this morning, and now it will idle again. I ordered a new alternator, but I can't see how this is my problem. How could a bad alternator have an engine run at 2000 rpm, but at idle it pulses and dies? Does anyone think that it is the alternator, or should I try something else? First thoughts are crap in jets or intake leak, but I am 90% sure that all is ok with fuel delivery.

Sounds like an air pocket. When an air pocket reaches the engine, it creates steam. The steam bubble grows and will cause overheating. The thermostat may be in contact with steam, or an air pocket and does not open. The air pocket may also be in contact with the temp sensor, and giving you a false reading in the morning. It is designed for liquid, not steam. Gurgling is not good. You will have to get the air pocket out by getting the bubble to move to a high point, or bleeding it off. It's a pain to do, but it needs to be done. If heater is hit and miss, I suspect to start there. Try removing hoses or bleeding off trapped air from there. The bubble is trapped in a lower point than your radiator , and will need to be removed or moved to a high point. If thats not it, IDK.

The carb says rochester 2 jet, which I assume to be a 2G. Nothing fancy about this carb. I don't think that its a dual jet. Idle is a little rough at 800 rpm, but I need to advance timing some still. At 2000 rpm it just purrs. Probably because it not progressive. I have a little flat spot on the throttle response, but it's nothing that I can't live with. I have a plate to isolate each side of the carb inside of the manifold, Vaccum should pull evenly from each side of the engine I would think. The plate does not go all the way up to the carb mounting body, instead it sits about 1/2" below. I put the plate in mainly because this is what I've seen on bigger V8 intakes to regulate fuel flow to each cylinder bank. I am finding out that it is alot of carb, and very primitave. I don;t expect that it will ever be spot on accurate, but I'm gonna play around a little more before I fork up the cash for the tried and true weber.

Well, after alot of research, I've learned that the idle screws are supposed to be adjusted independently on the Roch. One barrel feeds one side, and one barrel feeds the other, so they must be adjusted differently. I feel confident that this carb will work correctly, once adjusted correctly. At 280 CFM, it should work well, but this has been alot of trial and error getting it right. Right now, I'm not sure if I'd recommend using one of these on a sube, but I will see how it performs after some more adjustment and tinkering. Might be a screamer, might be a dud, we shall see. Thanks Naru for you insight, you've helped me out alot.

If you want to set the carb before you put it on, turn the air/fuel mixture out 2 1/2 turns. (not sure about your carbs, but that is the normal setting.) You really don't have to play with the idle setting because you can up the idle if its too low after it's on already. Once you get the ilde set to the RPM that you want (I would like about 800 rpm) you can begin to lean it out. Do not adjust the idle screw while you are adjusting the air/fuel mix. You turn the air/fuel screw in to have more air/less fuel. In = lean Out=rich. Once the engine starts to bog down, turn the air fuel screw out about 1/4 turn. Hit the gas and check for flat spots. If you find a flat spot/you will need to adjust fuel/air mix, probably by letting in more fuel. Once you get it where you think it's right, run the engine for a while. Pull the plugs and check to see if you're too rich or too lean. Adjust the screws accordingly.

Here is another thought. I do not have a fuel pressure regulator. The Rochesters are supposed to run at 3-5. What does the stock subaru fuel pump deliver?