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Seizer

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  1. Thanks for that info, I had never thought of the failure being with the two. Or one causing the other. I was starting to reason the fact I couldn't find just a front diff was because it was considered part of the transmission. That sure is any eye opener. Again thank you greatly for your input.
  2. I have scoured the net and my mechanic cannot come up with a replacement front diff for my 96 Legacy. Where is a good place to get a used or rebuilt front diff. I've checked the local junkyards as well and cannot come up with anything. I don't want to pay the $2k that Subaru quoted for getting the thing so any information on where and how to find one is greatly appreciated.
  3. Ok I am sorry I was unable to find all the differential whirring posts before I was in a rush. Also I did not do a search for whine. This is just a small update to the problem. My CVs are fine. I did replace the drivers side about 10k miles ago. The whirring had already started by then, but now of course is progressively worse. My diff oil level is good and is still clean looking. Had the car on the car lift and did not note any leaks. Shook and rotated driveshaft. Had some play in it, but I did not think it had too much.
  4. I have been experiencing a whirring noise from my 96 Legacy AT, for quite some time now. It started very soft and now is sounding worse like grating gears. The noise comes whenever you are not accelerating. Throw the trans into neutral and still there. Soon as you touch the gas pedal it goes away. I've swerved back and forth trying to determine if its a wheel bearing, and the pitch of the noise does not change not matter which way I turn. When in neutral I rev the engine and no change in the whirring. I'm really getting worried and frustrated. Also I should say I don't think it is the trans, it shifts smoothly, no clunking, and no slipping. Is it possible to be a U-joint in the driveshaft? Any suggestions on which component is going to let out the magic smoke?
  5. Yow my math skills suck, but your talking in my situation where its 3:1 correct? I just want to be sure, and believe me next time I am out I will be buying the oil and filter. I've also gotten away from Frams because that's all I hear about them is that they suck. I usually buy Purolator Pure One's. Or a K&N filter. Thanks for the advice 99obw.
  6. BigMattyD I changed the gaskets on my valve covers last summer. I took off the rocker arms and inspected all the lifters, because I had a tick then. According to service manual all my lifters were within tolerance for the check, as far as I could tell. The tick comes and goes, the whole reason for the Mystery Oil was I figured I could just blast the carbon or what not that might be preventing it from pumping up right out. I appreciate the willingness to help, thanks again.
  7. Wow KStretch, that's pretty interesting. I am an aircraft mechanic too, and quite frequently take soap samples from our aircraft. We ship our samples out to a lab for checking, typically Honeywell's labs. I also knew the gist of what they do, but not to the extent you explained the process. Thanks for the input. Anyone know what a set of lifters run for an EJ22 engine?
  8. Wow after looking at "Bobs the oil guy" page I feel like throwing up. I just put an additive into a full synthetic lubricant. After reading this I think I will be going back to conventional oil too. Thanks for the info guys, and the bottle of the Marvel Mystery Oil, just says add a quart to crankcase oils and 4 oz to 10 gallons of fuel. That's why I figured on dumping the whole quart in with the oil change. I also feel like throwing up for wasting $15 dollars on synthetic oil that I will now be draining very soon. Oh well you live you learn. Just hope it doesn't cost the car engine anything.
  9. I changed the oil and filter today on my 96 Legacy. Been having a loud hydraulic lash adjuster tick. So I dumped a whole quart of the mystery oil in with 3 qts of 10W30 full synthetic. Should I change the oil sooner than normal? Should I change it in about 500 miles or does it matter at all, just change at next oil change? Thanks.
  10. What do you typically use to hold the crank pulley, a strap wrench or is there a hole I can put a punch in that will stop the crankshaft from rotating?
  11. Thanks for the hilly billy reply! I have a Haynes manual I just wanted to know some things about it before I go tearing into it. I like to be informed, about what I do before I do it.
  12. I've noticed an oil leak coming from under the timing belt cover, where a rubber gasket is, pretty much right under the crankshaft pulley. Is this most likely my crankshaft oil seal leaking? Is this hard to fix myself if it is?
  13. Thanks for the replies. Still just want to find the parts so I can do it myself.
  14. Anyone know where I can find parts to rebuild my alternator, for a 96 Legacy L?
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