jimbo747

2007 Outback with the H6 engine. Over 295,000 miles, mostly (80%) highway. Oil and filter changed religiously (every 5,000 to 6,000 miles) I've just developed a dripping oil leak at the bottom of the timing cover. I have two philosophies: 1) Preventive Maintenance is good 2) If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I have hear somewhere that Subaru timing belts should be replaced at 300,000 miles, but I cannot verify this. The shop manual (yes, I have the official shop manual) only gives service intervals for timing belt, not chains. Other sources say only replace the chains if I am overhauling the engine. I am not having any timing issues, nor am I hearing any rattling sounds coming from the engine. So, do I simply remove the cover, clean it and reseal with 3-Bond (and replace the crank seal), or should I replace the chains at the same time? Your thoughts and experiences are greatly appreciated.😀

2007 Outback LL Bean Edition. I need to replace the propeller shaft -- front u-joint is going out. My dilemma is whether to purchase new from dealer (just shy of $700.00, including tax and discount) or a rebuilt unit from Cardone (via Rock-Auto) for half the price. I've previously had good luck with Cardone rebuilds, but a few months ago replaced my front CV axles with new OEM from my dealer, primarily based on what I've read in this forum.

Turns out it was the battery after all. It took four months, but the battery finally quit. When I replaced it with a new one, the problems I was having with my audio system went away.

Nope. Original starter and alternator. It's starting to look more and more like the unit itself.

@ OneLuckyTexan -- Yes I do have the original alternator. Sorry I didn't see your post until just now.

Thanks, Justin To answer your question, I only lose the presets after I start the engine. If I turn the key on, everything is fine; once I start the engine, the radio resets. Someone else pointed me to the Legacy.gt.com site where I found detailed instructions on installing the aftermarket stereos. I have found a company in Lakeland, FL that does factory stereo repairs. I may check with them and see what it would cost to have this unit repaired.

Thanks again. Your points are what is giving me heartburn over this. Losing radio presets doesn't seem to be a big enough symptom, which is why I posted the question in the hopes that someone else experienced similar issues. I was just out on ebay looking at new audio systems. There are some that really caught my eye (a backup camera would be awesome), but my LL Bean edition (I used to ask myself, "What kind of pretentious d-bag buys the LL Bean edition?" until I saw this one on the lot for a great price) has the automatic air conditioner system. All of the kits I've seen online are for vehicles equipped with "manual" air conditioners. If it comes to that, I may be making a new post on the forum... Thanks again for everything!

Thanks for your inputs. A co-worker also suggested the dead-cell theory. Given the fact that the battery is 3 1/2 years old and I (and the car) reside in Arizona which is notoriously hard on batteries. I'll have it checked out.

Everything is factory orignal

2007 Outback w/3.0 H6. When I turn the ignition on, everything comes up as normal. I can start the car no problem. There is zero hesitation indicating a weak or weakening battery. However, after it starts, the audio system completely resets. Presets lost and everything. This happens on the 1st start of the day; and occasionally on subsequent starts during the same day. Problem started about a 2 weeks ago. Battery (Optimal Red Top) is 3 1/2 years old.

I've got a 2007 Outback 3.0 H6 with 170,000. I live in the Phoenix Metro Area, where daytime highs have been exceeding 105 degrees for the past month. When outside temps are below 100, the temp gauge is right in the middle, where it should be. But when temps are above 100 and I'm driving on the highway (65+ MPH), my temp gauge creeps up -- not to redline (yet) -- but around 3/4 to 7/8 of the way there. I tried draining and refilling the coolant, but no change. 1) Should I be concerned or is this normal? 2) Should I try a cooling system flush (like Prestone?) 3) Could it be a thermostat issue? Thanks

After many years and over 325,000 miles of faithful service, I have traded in my 1993 Loyale for a newer (2007) Outback. I want to thank all of you in this sub-forum for all your help, advice, and sometime humor in helping me keep my ride rolling. Perhaps I'll see some of you over in the "Current Generation" forum. Again, thanks for everything! Jim

I also have a 1993 Loyale with an EA82 with 254,000 miles. 10 years ago I had a shop reseal the engine, then I did it myself about 4 years ago. It's leaking again and I'm considering tackling the job again this summer. Mr. Loyale said "I think Subaru is Japanese for 'leaky engine'." Another common joke is that Subaru's don't leak oil, they mark their terratory. Mine has marked the entire block. I read a thread several years ago entitled "Why I hate Subaru." In short, the poster had obtained one to use as a farm vehicle and would drive it until it died. The problem was, it wouldn't die. It was leaking oil, blowing smoke, and making all sorts of ungodly sounds; but it started every time and did what he needed it to do. The OP said he was apparently going to have to drive it until it rusted apart. He then went on to say that he felt sorry for those of us (like me!) who live in the desert southwest. We are stuck with our Subaru's forever!

Thanks so much!

My 1993 Loyale has 235,000. All the way to the moon! Now, just like the NASA technicians on Apollo 13, I'm trying to bring it back home.

Definitely off topic, but I do own a 93 Loyale and have gotten lot's of help here in the past. Anyway, my son is looking at a 2001 Sebring. (I know, not a Subie, but it does seem like a good car for his needs). VIN is 1C3EL45U41N602294 I tried the tips in the post about getting a free vin check, but it looks like the backdoor has been closed on that one. Thanks guys and gals! Jim

1993 Loyale with EA82 SPFI. After replacing damn near everything else to fix a drivability issue (Plugs, Wires, Coil, TPS, IAC), I finally replaced the fuel injector and VOILA -- problem solved -- almost. Now it idles fast (1500 rpm), and I can't figure out why. When I pulled the old fuel injector out of the throttle body, a small metal ring came out. It looks like a spacer of some kind, with three black (rubber) feet on it. I didn't see which way it was installed, and I'm not sure which way it goes back in. Anybody familiar with this spacer and the proper installation? Thanks!

You will most likely discover (as I have) that those little coils have disintegrated. Next you will discover that a replacement is pricey. Fortunately, this issue came up a few year's ago, and a solid-state solution was posted. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14184&highlight=resistor I've tried this and it works great. Good luck.

You may have noticed that I've been having a very similar problem for that last month myself. Turns out that my fuel injector was bad. A new one is pricey (in the $300.00 range), but you can get a rebuilt one (like I did) for about $27.00 (plus core) from RockAuto.com. Good Luck!

Solved the problem. After replacing the IAC, the TPS (needlessly -- that's a whole post in itself) and cleaning the MAF, I bought and installed a replacement FUEL INJECTOR!!!!! Started right up and is purring like a kitten. Thanks for all the advice.

Same thing happened to me about 2 months ago. Found a replacment bearing from a place called VXB bearings in CA. Total cost, including shipping was $9.29. You will need a 15X35X11mm sealed bearing.

I've cleaned the MAF, and checked to wires to the coil. Coolant temp sensor is also giving specified readings. Everything seems to be as it should. I also replaced the TPS (that alone is a story for another thread). Anyway, I'm now thinking it could be: O2 sensor MAF sensor Fuel Injector itself (this is an SPFI) Any thoughts?

I visually inspected the MAF sensor and it looked clean. I think I sprayed it with some electronics cleaner, but I will try that again. Also, I will look at the coil and distributor wiring. Thanks.

I replaced the wiring harness with a brand-new one.

1993 Loyale, 5 speed , EA82 SPFI Vehicle does not idle smoothly. Engine speed will fluctuate +/- 500 RPM at idle. It also seems to occasionally misfire while cruising. There has been no check engine light, and no codes until I replaced the wiring harness (see below). Around 6 weeks ago, the car would stall when ever I stopped. This continued for about 25 minutes, and then suddenly started working fine. Same problem occurred about 4 days later, and started working normally later that day. November 27th, I replaced the leaking power-steering pump, and while I was at it, removed and cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced the connector at the wiring harness. Vehicle has been running great until December 9th. Last weekend, I replaced all four spark plugs, re-examined the IAC valve, and checked the mass airflow sensor and the TPS. These components seem to be working within parameters. This may be a “red-hearing”, but I have noticed that if I “jiggle” the wires leading to the MAF sensor, the engine will either “smooth out” for a few seconds, or it will stall. But I can’t do this with any consistency. I have tightened the tension on the throttle cable to temporarily increase the idle speed to make the car “drivable” until this problem can be diagnosed. I took the car to my local dealer. The mechanic apparently found that “the IAC circuit was open”, indicating a short and recommended replacing the wiring harness. I purchased and installed a new wiring harness and a new IAC valve, but the problem continues, and new problem has occurred. The new wiring harness was apparently for a “California” car, and had a plug for an EGR temp. sensor. Now I’m getting a code 55 (EGR temp sensor). Is there any way I can just jumper this plug, or should I pull the pins on the harness plug where it attaches to the main bus? Does anybody have any ideas as to what could be causing my idling / stalling problems?