soobme

U beat me to it!!!!!!!!! I'm doing the same thing to my wagon I have the H190 rear with 4.37's and an R180 with 4.37's for the front, and the transfercase. How did U do the front? I plan on custom long travel struts for mine. How much lift is that all together? And what size tires are they? It looks GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry guys, I'll have to skip this one I'm sooooooo backed up on orders right now that I have -0- time to play

No, but it is a little eazyer if U jack up the front of the car while U do it U can use the car as a spring compressor on the rears, just leave the car on the ground and un screw the nuts on top of the center upper mount. Then jack up the back and the spring will be free. When U go to put it back to gether start the nuts back on as soon as there is enough of the stud stiking through the mount, if U let all the weight of the car down on it 1st U don't have enough room to get the nuts back on the stud.

Just wanted to let U all know (I have been asked MANY times before) that U can now get any of my products POWDER COATED I now have a deal worked out with a local shop to do all my P.C. for a very good price. So now U all have a choice (other than just bear )

Now THAT is what I call fabrication!! That thing looks GREAT! I would ask U to make me one, but I don't think I could talk U in to it after the time it must have taken

I am making some for the front, they are for off-road use but a shorter version would work for a streeter I went through Monroe's size/fitment charts and found a strut CARTRIGE that is off of a heavier car (stifer valving) and plan to make new strut bodies that will have adj. mounts for 3" OD coil-over springs. I am using big ball-joints into a steel plate for the upper mounts. They will be tuff, adjustable, have NO rubber bushings/mounts at all! And I can change out the springs for any size/ stifness I want

12x1.25, that's the threds, as for the size of the lug nut it's self I think they are all the same.

I don't know about re-placing it, but I do know that it's glued in with the pollyurithane that holds the windsheild in place. Mine came out real eazy, but every car is diferent.

A sammy case will work too. What U are looking for is a case that has the front and rear out puts in line, and the input off-set. This arangment makes for the best mounting of all the drive train. The Datsun is the best fit, but there are others out there that will work too.

Go for it!!!!!! The rare C6 bit is true, I would trade some one for a C4 (smaller, lighter, eazyer to fit in the trans tunnel). And an R180 or R200 in back would make it reliable too It will work with the R160 for now, but if U end up likein' it U could up grade to the R200.

It should be just a mirror image of the pass. side arm.

If U can get a good deal on one, a Samy case is THE WAY TO GO! U can get low range sets for them that reduce the high range as well (as in lower diff gears, with out the R&P set )

I sold those Kelly Metrics when I worked @ a tire shop, they actuly are not bad tires. Just keep them inflated right (22PSI or better) and they will hold up well.

I would go with 205-70-14 snow tires with out the studs, should look just right

CR will be 48.2:1, (1st=3.636, S.T.C.=1.462, D.T.C,=2.07, R&P=4.375) will work better than it sounds I'm gona use EA82 shafts(longer) and do just a little machine work to the DOJ (to get a little more travel) housing. I can put the Subaru R160 stubs in the R180 so they will fit right up

Yes, I plan to take many pics I'm using the R180 front dif for my front, the H190 (solid axle) for the rear, I am building my oun front strut bodies (found a cartrige with 9" of travel ) and using dodge "screw in" ball joints for the upper mount (no rubber uper mount to tear out ) and they will use 2.5"ID coil-over springs (14") I will be able to adjust the front ridehigth to what ever I need, should get 10" of wheel travel, and they will be 3X stronger than stock struts! I will be making lower -A- arms with hime joints.

I'm doing the "Tansfercase mod" (as some of U know) and I got a compleat '81 Datsun 720 4x4 PU. The rear axle is within 1" of the width of the stock Subaru suspension (EA81) I had planed on doing a strait axle swap any way, but that was icing on the cake The '80-'82 720 4x4's have the R180 front dif, and the H190 rear (I'm told the -H- is for Hitachi ), in 4.375:1!!!!!!! So now I will have KILLER gearing

U can take 6 lug wheels for a Yota, Datsun/Nissan, Chevy, Isuzu, ect. ect. and drill 2 new holes in them and they fit! 2 of the Subaru studs line up with 2 of the 6 lug patern, and then U drill the other 2 holes. The webber swap is the norm here on the USMB (2bbl progresive) but in my neck of the woods we are using all kinds of diferent carbs. From 1bbl's of of older Fords and Dodges, to Holley 500cfm 2bbl's. A big 1bbl is great for torque, and the 2bbl Holley (or a Motorcraft of of an older Ford V8) is great for HP in the uper RPM range

U will be fine so long as U don't use 4WD when U have good traction. U can still use it in low traction stuff no problem (ie:mud, snow, hard rain) I usualy run a little bit of tire stager in all my 4X4's. A little bit biger tire in front helps the rig pull staiter in mud and snow, and I hve NEVER had any problems with this. The wagon I'm building right now will have stagerd gears front to rear (by just a little) so that I can run the same size tires all around for once

I would be down for that if I had a 3rd car, but alass..... I know it sounds crazy, but tire size and style can help out alot too. Space saver spairs would be ideal, but I don't know how long they would hold up :-p some little 165SR13's on aluminum wheels would work, and they are CHEEP. It helps to get the least agresive tread patern, and run them @ the max air presure. And make sure your'e toe is set dead on (1/32nd toe out for front drive cars) I have picked up as much as 3MPG with this trick in the past

I NEED that car!!!!!

Now all U need is one of those swoopy roof racks that bolts right to the roof It looks good I like to see others work in Krylon

Well..... there is not much in the way of interchange between a gen.II and late model stuff. U can get the type of suspention U are looking for, but it will be ALOT of custom work and $$$ to get it up to par for a pre-runner(wich is what it sounds like U want to build) U could make new strut bodies for the front and use Monroe PN#73963 for the cartridges (this will give U 8.875" of trav. in the strut and stifer valving). While making the new body convert to 3" coil-over style springs (14" long 225lb springs should be about right)and that will help with tire clearance and body sway.

Well, my bumpers start out @ $99. The price varies depending on what options U want to add on. (brush guard, -D- rings, recever, ect.)

Without bagin' on youre idea Yes! I have thought of leaf springs, but that's because I'm going to a strait axle in the back If U plan on keeping the IRS then leaf springs are not a good idea at all. There is not enough room to still have good sus. travel with leaf springs. Air shocks or a good set of coil-overs in the back would be the way to increase load cap. Now if U are talking about going to a strait axle leaf springs are very doable, but a 3 or 4 link set up with coil-overs would kick @$$.