akloyale

I don't have the permatorque, I have the OEM gasket. I have been told that I don't need to retorque it if I up the torque by about 5lbs. granted my source is not always reliable, but that is what I was going to do. Since I already have the gaskets I am going to use them, but do you really think I need to retorque them? Thanks

OK sounds like the yellow 3m pad its the way to go. Thanks for all the help I will let you guys know how it turns out.

I am doing my first head gasket job ever on an ea82 SPFI from a 91 loyale 3AT. The problem I have run into is how to remove the gasketmaterial. it seems to be burnt on the block around some of the bolt holes. I have tried a razor blade gasket remover (carefully), engine degreaser and a sharpened putty knife all to no avail. I am worried about ruining the aluminum block and have run out of ideas. I am hesitant to use sand paper or something like that but I am about out of options. :confused:Thanks for all the helpful posts up to this point that have kept me fro completely ruining the job by being over zealous with the razor or something.

I have a 1990 loyale EA82 with a 3AT. I started having overheating problems about a year ago, but no indications it was the HG so I reworked the whole cooling system, but it still overheated. At the time it was my families only vehicle so we continued to drive it daily overheating it fairly regularly (1-2 times a week to about 2/3 of the heat gauge). Of course this resulted in the HG leaking. I just to drive it and refill the coolant for another 6 months or so. It finally died when I parked it overnight in -20 degree temps and the piston froze to the block. it has started and driven since then but Now I don't drive it anymore since it bubbles over the overflow and won't idle. I am wondering if this extreme abuse has destroyed the engine or if a rebuild is worth it. I have another engine from a guy who pulled it with 160K because it had a loud tick. I figure it ticked because it was a subby and probly just needed an oil pump. My plan was to replace gaskets and seals on the extra engine and put it in with a new water and oil pump and scrap the old engine. Should I use the old engine or the extra and should I do the rings and bearings while it is out of the car? Any thought or advice would be great. this is first time I have done any internal work with any engine. Thanks for and help, advice or guidance.

just did my timing belts for the first time. It was surprisingly simple and didn't take very long. Just some encouragement before the attack. I used to breaker bar and starter trick to get the pulley off. good luck.

sounds like I am gonna replace the t-belts. What is the best way to remove the crank pulley on at AT EA82

Just pulling into the drive and it died. No noises or smoke. Pulled the disty cap off and it doesn't turn when the engine is cranked, but it is attached with the screw. Pulled the driver's side t-belt cover and the belt is in place with all teeth attached. when car is turned over, the belt moves a little (1/4"), but no other movement is seen. Any help on diagnosing this would be great. I haven't had experience with this part of the suby yet (just cooling and cv's so far) so I am not really sure what to look for.

thanks for the input guys. I was just wondering if it could be anything else. I think I am gonna replace he axle and the wheel bearing on the driver's side. lots of fun

I have recently replaced both front axle assemblies on my 1990 loyale nonT driver's side about 5000 miles ago and passenger side 200 mi both brand new. After replacing the passenger side the car still made a bad thunking noise on hard right turns, so i returned the axle and got a new one, with no change. Now I am sure it is coming from the driver side, but that axle is new and didn't make any noise when first installed. It is now a thunking/clicking and occures on all right hand turns and while going stright under acceleration. It is it clicks/clunks in relation to how fast I am going and only occures during acceleration. Checked and double checked castle nuts (150 lbs) and all other nuts and bolts and brakes to ensure proper torque and no warpage. Still making the noise and continues to get worse. Any suggestions? I can't believe the new cv would go out in only about 5000 miles, but it sure sounds like that or a wheel bearing, but I don't have experience with that sound. sorry for the long post and thanks for all the help.

I bought a cheap cd player for my 90 subaru loyale no turbo and put it in a while ago. I bought the wiring harness for the car to simplify things, but of course it didn't fit:mad: . I ended up just cutting the wires and connecting them myself. I didn't cut anything not going directly to the radio. after that I have no dash lights and it seems the radio power is routed through headlights (when headlights turn off radio has no power) . another weird thing is the headlights turn off when the car turns off. I don't know if that is normal for this car, but isn't the case with other older cars I have owned. some previous owner installed a remote start and did a real chop job (random wires everywhere). I have installed plenty of radios before and have never scene this before. any help would be greatly appreciated.

well turns out it was two things wrong. I didn't have the selonoid wire connected to the correct tab:banghead:. and the relay was bad, it always gave continuous power through it regardless of the voltage coming in the switch wire. I ended up using the original starter and putting in a push button. thanks for all the help guys I feel like an idiot but that is how I learn.

I am going to check installation and try the original starter to see if it is the wrong starter. I checked the voltage in the selonoid wire when ign is on and it only has .024V. I am not savy to car electrical but I would imagine this nowhere near the amount of voltage needed to start a selonoid (possibly not even enough to power the relay every time?). I am going to install push button for now and will report back.

I put in a relay to for the starter because it was suggested on some other threads that the clicking was from a lack of power coming through the selonoid wire. The relay uses the original selonoid power wire as the switch and is then wired from the battery to the starter.

the starter is a brand new one. I am sure it is put in all the way and the parts store was sure it is the right one I made him check twice. when it starts spinning I have to remove the direct power for the relay (either from battery or to starter). I really don't think it is the battery because it has lots of power usually, but I am gonna check when I can (no other car or battery to use)..

My 90 loyale has slowly developed a starting problem; It would click, but start. after a week it would only start when hit with a hammer. Now only makes a repeated clicking when key is turned. I replaced the started and them read all the posts here about starters, relays, push buttons, bad connections etc. I installed new battery cables and cleaned all terminals and grounds, then put in a relay. still just a click. Unplugged the ignition switch wires (I think thats the name) under the steering column no burning or browning. However, after plugging it back in I tried to start it and something in the starter just spins. really high rpm/whining noise like a jet engine. spins continuously until power wire in relay is removed. I'm thinkin that means the ign switch is sending continuous signal even when key is off (bad switch). but shouldn't the starter engage??? I am total stumped and don't know what to do. why just the whining noise and no starting?? and why does it continue to spin after the ign is turned off. Also starter doesn't start when I bridge the gap from the positive battery cable to the selonoid cable, just the same spinning noise and lots of sparks. thanks for all the help so far.