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pksjeep

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Everything posted by pksjeep

  1. I am about to do the carb conversion from the hibachi carb. There is a plastic spacer under the carb, do I leave it or remove it when I put on the Webber and adaptor. plate? I am thinking it is for a thermal barrier, but that doesn't seem to make sense because water is allowed to contact the bottom of the carb which i think is used to heat the carb.
  2. You could possibly bend a tube the same diameter and cut the one on the bracket in half along the length. Cut the ends far enough away from the bracket to put hose clamps on it to secure the new bent tube in place. Looking in the service manual, it looks like factory used a chunk of hose on each end so i think if you got high heat hose it would work OK. The widget is an anti-after burning valve. I don't know anything about that, but perhaps it is not allowing the gases to flow thru, and this allowed condensate to build up and corrode the tube. My best guess would be to pull the hose off the EGR valve and see if there is suction while the car is running.
  3. On mine the pin comes out. You should be able to get some at any auto parts store.
  4. I don't know for sure on this car, but most sending units are in the gas tank.
  5. Check the electrical connectors, maybe some dielectric/ silicone grease around the connectors to block moisture. Try not to get on the contacting points because it doesn't conduct.
  6. I have one with R on the light housing, so am assuming it is for the right side/ Passenger side. I want $150.00 for It plus shipping from zip 99216. The lens is good, but one of the wires has become disconnected from the connector at the plug.
  7. I have one with R on the light housing, so am assuming it is for the right side/ Passenger side. I want $150.00 for It plus shipping from zip 99216. The lens is good, but one of the wires has become disconnected from the connector at the plug.
  8. I think I got mine from a EA82 engine, it has a yellow handle also. The original one the handle gets broken off when the spare tire is removed. At the time I just compared mine to the one I pulled out of a wrecked car.
  9. There is a small rubber hose behind the distributer, check that. Paul
  10. It looks like you replaced some hoses. There is a small one that runs behind the distributer on the passenger side of the engine. This one leaked on mine, I didn't know the hose was there. The hot coolant would mix with the oil and grime on the engine and look like oil was dripping, I also had a cracked plastic plug in the radiator. Check the heater hoses. There is also a small hose that goes from the heater hose to the carb. there is a plastic thermo device that cracks and leaks. The best way to check for leaks is to do a pressure test. You can get the tool at HF, on possibly rent/Borrow one from Autozone or, O'Reilly. You pressurize the system and wait to see if it bleeds down. Plus, you don't get burnt looking around the hot engine parts.
  11. The car is 1986 brat, The key/switch will not turn the engine over. I can jump the starter, with the switch on and the car will run as normal. I do get power thru the switch when it is in the start position using a test light. All the fuses and fusible links show good on both sides with a test light. Is there a starter relay? If so, where is it and what does it look like?
  12. I am assuming that you should be able to push the car by hand if the transfer case lever indicates 2wd but is in neutral.
  13. Brat only. Ask in the wanted section. FYI I believe I have a passenger side, $100.00 plus shipping. Let me know if you are interested and I will check. Paul
  14. Try safelite AutoGlass. I had mine done in April 2018. Check on line, they will give you a quote. I got a discount as time went by about a month went by and I setup the appointment.
  15. Could be that fuel has dried up on the inside and stopped it from working. Has the donor car ran recently? Paul
  16. If you look from the bottom of the car where the passenger side pipe comes out of the head you will see the tube that sticks out pointing to the front of the car. The tube from the air cleaner slides on there with the clamp that was mentioned in the other post by Bennie.
  17. 6 1/4" long x 4" deep x 1 7/8" thick. shaft centers 5" Paul
  18. Maybe you can get one of those inspection cameras that is on a tube and look around, I think it is called a borescope, or and inspection camera. I think I got mine at Costco years ago. I think Harbor Freight has them. It is handy for looking inside pipes and cylinders bores.... It may show you where you need to try to grab the dipstick. I hate to be negative but I don't think there would be enough to grip with the tools mentioned above or enough surface area for a magnet to work. I agree it would be best to get it out of there, but if the length is long enough it may not interfere with any gears just hitting the bottom of the case and laying on the side of the dipstick tube. Can a new/or used stock dipstick be inserted in the tube without any interference from the broken dipstick???? I haven't pulled a dipstick tube on a Subaru, but some are retained with a bolt and a bracket and a o-ring is usually stuffed inside the transmission around the tube for sealing, The o-ring usually gets hard. I would try to wobble the tube around a little to try to see it the will loosen up the tube, try not to deform the tube any more that you already have. Try to pull up as you wobble. My thoughts , and good luck. Paul
  19. If it is the stock header it should be on the passenger side near where it bolts to the head. I have also seen a pipe tack welded to the header on the passenger side . The pipe isn't welded solid it must allow a little air flow around it . Copy this description into eBay and it shows the pipe sticking out. Magnaflow Catalytic Converter Direct Fit 1980-1987 Subaru Brat 1.8L Paul
  20. Try the dimmer , turn it up an down a few times. this will hopefully clean the contacts and the lights may come on. This usually works for me. You may have to leave the switch in a slightly different position.
  21. I also have an 86 Brat. I have not seen the light yet. Can you tell me how to reset it? Paul
  22. You state have spark from the coil. I am assuming that you tested from the coil wire that goes from the coil to the distributer cap when cranking the engine, by looking for a spark at the end of the coil wire as it is place close to a ground.. I am assuming you attached a spark plug to a wire, grounded it and saw no spark, using the new distributer. I am also assuming you are using the same spark plug wires from the distributer that made the car run, proving the plug and wires are OK. The only things left are the rotor, cap or that the wires are not pushed into the cap all the way making a good connection., I think you could use an digital OHM meter and check for continuity between the plug connector and the terminal inside the cap. If it shows open line the problem is at the cap/wire connection. Check all connections if you don't have most of the plugs firing the car wont run. I have never done this but I have checked continuity on plug wires this way. I if is an Open Line look at the connection point. Do you see a metal connectors where the plug/coil wires are pushed in?? Does it look like the wire connectors scraped the metal a little ?? See if there is continuity between the coil metal connector on top, and the button in the center of the cap. Does it look like the rotor center connector has a wear spot from the cap? If so this would indicate there is a connection at that point. Is there a metal connector at the end of the rotor, maybe it broke or fell off? Again I have never done this, bit I think you could check for continuity between the center of the rotor to the end of the rotor. If all this proves out I got to believe that the rotor or cap is not correct. Maybe you could try to measure the distance from the center of the rotor to the end. and the center button in the cap to the terminal on the inside. They should be close to the same measurement with the rotor being a little shorter. I don't know what the difference should be, but if it seams like a lot I don't think it will transfer the spark energy. That deals with spark. Do you believe you got the firing order/ timing in the correct positions?
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