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mkoch

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About mkoch

  • Rank
    USMB Regular

Profile Information

  • Location
    St Louis
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Judo
  • Occupation
    Manager, repairman at a violin shop
  • Vehicles
    1984 Gl Wagon 4wd

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  1. mkoch
    The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay. The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone! Is this my only option?;
  2. mkoch started following Double-tap, delete please, New Brat, ‘85, now, the windshield problem.., 1984 GL 4wd wagon, rear alignment, Possible to adjust? and and 1 other
  3. mkoch
    I just bought a 1985 Brat!! I am pretty sure the parts are the same as my ‘84 GL Wagon. I need to replace the windshield. It is the same as a GL, 1984, right? I am in St. louis, and the closest windshield I can find is in Chicago. Group mind, do you have any suggestions? mkoch
  4. mkoch
    I am wondering if the 85 Brat uses the Generation 2 parts an 84 Gl wagon uses.
  5. mkoch

    pre heater hose route

    mkoch replied to turfman454's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Make sure the stub the pre heater hose connects to is a true air heater. Many aftermarket y pipes just put a dummy pipe there.
  6. mkoch
    1984 Subaru, I want to be able to tow this one. Should I connect the tow bar to the tie down points, (safe, secure) or, to the bumper (convenient, iffy) ?
  7. mkoch
    There are three bolts, it looks like I will have to grind the holes to change the position of the bolts.
  8. mkoch
    Can the rear alignment on a 2nd generation 4wd Subaru be adjusted by mere mortals?
  9. mkoch
    Looking good! Yes, the rust problem around here are horrible. I bought a California car, and it rusted in 12 years here i St. Louis.
  10. mkoch
    I was able to tap the axle spindle out of the bearing housing... that was pretty easy! ”How To Keep Your Subaru Alive” does not mention that as an option. A Youtube video shows tapping the housing back in to the spindle. Can I do this without harming the CV joint?
  11. mkoch
    This was answered in the duplicate thread.
  12. mkoch
    Oh, and adding, the clicking noise happens mostly when decelerating. If I turn hard, left or right, the clunking sound is not effected. To me, that means the problem is the DOJ, (inboard) not the CVC. mkoch
  13. mkoch
    Thanks for the advice. I brought the axle shaft/ bearing housing to a place that has a press, and they acted like it is a big risk to pop the axle shaft off. The tech said the axle shaft might be destroyed. I am looking at another option... Same old CVJ and bearings, new outer boot, but new DOJs and boots. The mechanics here have me spooked about removing the axle shaft. Where would I buy another bearing housing?
  14. mkoch
    I need to replace the front axle shafts. The seriously "clunk clunk" I plan to replace a lot of other stuff while I am at it, such as tie rod ends, ball joint. I have new wheel bearings and seals. The ones on the car seem to be holding up just fine. Replace them, or not?
  15. mkoch
    The problem is “no start”. She cranks well enough, but just won’t catch.
  16. mkoch
    On my 84 gl, the clutch pedal box bent. As the pedal became less efficient at pulling the cable, it felt like the clutch plate was going bad. Look ook at the assembly that holds the clutch pedal, and press the clutch pedal with your hand. Does the frame which holds the pedal deform? I wish I had done this before I replaced my clutch plate!
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