['80-'84 part numbers]

This is from my 1984 parts manual.  What does the module look like?

[want two hitachi carburetors for my Brat]

*Two*  Hitachis... my god, why?  

['80-'84 part numbers]

Dang, I have the book somewhere, I will look for it.   It has all the part numbers for 1984

[Video, loose wheel bearing ?]

7 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:

"Without the hub on, there is no preload on the bearings. Re-install the hub and torque to spec. Now put the wheel on. With the car securely in the air, try to move the wheel. If you feel any slop or rattle, there is something wrong. Check balljoints and loose bolts first. If not, it's a bad bearing. "   ....

I did this, I re-assembled the hub and wheel, and pulled on the wheel while it was off the ground. 

The bearing feels tight with the 36mm  nut tightened.   

 

Thank you, group!

 

mkoch

 

[Video, loose wheel bearing ?]

A video where I ask the question:

 

Is this ok? Slop at rear axle, drum removed

The bearing can slide in and out with very little pressure.

 

 

[Is exhaust the same on ‘85 Brat and Gen 2 (‘84) gl wagon?]

Thank you, silverhelme

[Is exhaust the same on ‘85 Brat and Gen 2 (‘84) gl wagon?]

The engines on my 84 gl 4wd wagon, and my ‘85 Brat look pretty much the same.

Are the exhaust systems the same?

[85 brat weak crank , good battery, clean terminals]

Update!

I swapped the starter with my ‘84 GL.

Success!   The engine now turns over with gusto.

The old starter just did not have the power (torque?) to do the job.

Is it common for a starter motor to go to 30% power?   I thought  they just failed outright.

[85 brat weak crank , good battery, clean terminals]

we Problem solved, thank you for the advice!

The problem was a hokey dash mounted aftermarket starter switch.

The switch is a rotational one, which breaks contact when the knob is rotated beyond the start position.  The problem is, the switch has a fussy approx. 5 degrees of contact in “start” position.

 

 

[85 brat weak crank , good battery, clean terminals]

My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month.

I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try.

Things I did

Replace battery with  a proven strong one.

Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter.

I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL!

What should my next step be?

 

 

 

[Is an 85 Brat similar to a 84 Gen 2 wagon?]

On 1/23/2020 at 9:25 AM, skishop69 said:

For the majority, yes. What exactly are you planning?

When my '84 GL wagon frame rusts into nothingness, I plan to what parts I can on the '85 Brat.

[WTB 1983 GL replacement tan dash pieces]

You're in Oregon, this should be easy!

Maybe call these people.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/johnsubaruautobody/about/

They seem to have a lot of old Subarus.

 

[85 Brat exhaust, resonator needed]

The Y piece, catastrophic converter is available from RockAuto, and the muffler, surprisingly, available on eBay.

The piece between them, I guess called the “Resonator “ costs $180 from Autozone!   Is this my only option?;

[New Brat, ‘85, now, the windshield problem..]

I just bought a 1985 Brat!!

I am pretty sure the parts are the same as my ‘84 GL Wagon.

I need to replace the windshield.   It is the same as a GL, 1984, right?

I am in St. louis, and the closest windshield I can find is in Chicago.

Group mind, do you have any suggestions?

mkoch

[Is an 85 Brat similar to a 84 Gen 2 wagon?]

I am wondering if the 85 Brat uses the Generation 2 parts an 84 Gl wagon uses.

[pre heater hose route]

Make sure the stub the pre heater hose connects to is a true air heater.

 

Many aftermarket y pipes just put a dummy pipe there.

[Where to mount tow bar, 1984 wagon]

1984 Subaru, I want to be able to tow this one.

 

Should I connect the tow bar to the tie down points, (safe, secure)

or, to the bumper (convenient, iffy)

 

?

 

 

 

 

[1984 GL 4wd wagon, rear alignment, Possible to adjust?]

3 hours ago, DaveT said:

Look at the trailing arm.  Does it have 3 bolts on the side?  If it does that's the adjustment point.  If not then it's a version I am not familiar with.   A FSM would have the information. 

There are three bolts, it looks like I will have to grind the holes to change the position of the bolts.

[1984 GL 4wd wagon, rear alignment, Possible to adjust?]

Can the rear alignment on a 2nd generation 4wd Subaru be adjusted by mere mortals?  

[1984 Subaru GL with 255,000 miles]

Looking good!

 

Yes, the rust problem around here are horrible.  I bought a California car, and it rusted in 12 years here i  St. Louis.

 

 

[Do I just tap the axle spindle back into the bearing housing??]

I was able to tap the axle spindle out of the bearing housing... that was pretty easy!

”How To Keep Your Subaru Alive” does  not mention that as an option.

A Youtube video shows tapping the housing back in to the spindle.

Can I do this without harming the CV joint?

 

[Double-tap, delete please]

This was answered in the duplicate thread.

[Front, replacing axle shafts, etc. Should I replace wheel bearings?]

Oh, and adding, the clicking noise happens mostly when decelerating.  

If I turn hard, left or right, the clunking sound is not effected.  

To me, that means the problem is the DOJ, (inboard) not the CVC.

 

mkoch

[Front, replacing axle shafts, etc. Should I replace wheel bearings?]

Thanks for the advice. 

I brought the axle shaft/ bearing housing to a place that has a press, and they acted like it is a big risk to pop the axle shaft off.  The tech said the axle shaft might be destroyed.  

I am looking at another option...

Same old CVJ and bearings, new outer boot, but new DOJs and boots.  

The mechanics here have me spooked about removing the axle shaft.  Where would I buy another bearing housing?  

[Front, replacing axle shafts, etc. Should I replace wheel bearings?]

I need to replace the front axle shafts.  The seriously "clunk clunk"

I plan to replace a lot of other stuff while I am at it, such as tie rod ends, ball joint.

I have new wheel bearings and seals.  The ones on the car seem to be holding up just fine.  Replace them, or not?