crazy_squirrels

No. Not between tightening the belts and setting the timing. But I doubt the belts were off enough to change the timing 18 degrees. They only had about 15k on them. But the idle switch was not closing before i messed with the TPS. And last time i checked the timing, it was the same with or without the green plug connected.

Problem Solved! Chased a few more things, checked cam timing, everything looked great. Retensioned the timing belts, and went to check the timing, again, just to be sure...It was about 2 degrees! Reset it, and it runs great. I think what happened was last night i pulled the TPS off and tested it, and reset it. I dont think it was getting the idle switch signal, and i rememeber reading somewhere the computer needs to see that along with the green plugs conected to set the timing.

I know it can, but would it still make full boost with the exhaust plugged? And i get lots of exhaust pressure out the back, and bottom and side, of the muffler..lol

New cap, rotor, wires, and a used coil I knew to be good, reset the timing to 20, only a marginal improvement. Checked injector plugs...one was corroded a bit. cleaned it and tightened the connection. No improvement. Rigged up a gauge I had to check boost. 7psi with the gauge leaking a bit. The car starts great. Idles great. Runs smooth. And decent on flat ground. As soon as I hit a hill on the freeway its down to 3rd gear, 50-55mph. Falls completly off at about 5000rpm, wont pull past even on flat ground. Almost feels like cam timing is off. Or not advancing. Have a dirt bike that ran just like it. Ran great. pulled ok, just no power on the top end. Found my cam timing a tooth off. Not sure how a subi would run with cam timing off a tooth? So many possibilities.

So I may have found it. I should know better, but ive been working in the dark till today, literally. I started checking the wires at the cap...one of them was completely corroded....going to number one, the bank that was rich when i pulled the exhaust. Then i pulled the coil wire at the coil, its bleeding oil good. The hole boot was full. So I'll try new wires, cap, rotor, and I think i have a coil to try. And report back.

Just replaced the PCV hoses, and have checked every vacuum line. It idles great and runs smooth all the way up, except under load. I'm gonna do some more checks of ignition.

Brand new plugs, Wires, cap, rotor have about 18k on them. Cap and rotor looked great. I replaced everything before I had sold it. Brand new fuel filter. Full tank of fresh gas. Good fuel pressure, not checked under load though, IE, 30-40psi from idle to 5500 rpm in neutral. Oh, and fuel burn is very uneven from side to side. I drove it to work the first day, pulled the header off to weld it up at lunch, left bank exhaust was black, rich, right bank was white. The plugs that i pulled looked great. So i assume it is something that has come with sitting. And one code for idle swicth.

I recently reacquired my old 1989 GL10. Had the car 07-08, replaced the turbo, all the seals, swapped in a dual range 5 speed, and had it running pretty good. Sold it to a friend, she drove it about 15k miles till it spun a CV shaft in a hub. I bought it back cheap. It has been sitting about a year. Got it running, got it home, fixed the hub, drove it to work. It has no power under load/boost situations. Like 55mph in 3rd on the hills. If i crack the throttle it will accel, slowly, but more throttle it falls off. Lower speeds it stutters while trying to accelerate. So far i have welded up the cracked header pipe, thought maybe the exhaust leak was bad enough to be loosing boost. That made it worse. But a new filter on it, and some injector cleaner. Checked the turbo. Spins nice, turbo light comes on. Visually checked the MAF. Set the timing to 20 with the green plug connected. Checked fuel pressure. 30-40psi depending on vacuum, engine side of filter, 65psi with the return line pinched. Test drove it again. No change. Its making boost, popped the intake off the TB. When it did it, the turbo was so hot it was bright orange. Now, i work on diesel trucks, and have seen my share of glowing turbos, but this was looking like you could push a screwdriver though it. Im guessing with that sort of EGT its going lean. SO now im looking for advice from the guys that know subarus as where to look next.

Oil was changed about 1000 miles ago, when i put the D/R in it. And its done it since. Same with the linkage. all tight, and been doing it since the day i installed it...but then, i guess, there are reasons those cars end up at the wrecking yard, too!

Its not popping out. The Shifter just slides into place smothly, doesent even feel like its doing anything. And it only seems to happen then the tranny is cold. I would guess internal, as well, since it seems to shift all the other gears ok, and the bushings i can see seem ok. If i was keeping the car, i would just drive it. But i was planning on selling it to a girl i know, who needs a cheap car.

Found this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15460&highlight=reverse, exact same problem i have, but no answer there. Anyone find a reason for this? Or is it get a new tranny?

I swaped a junk yard 5 speed, with about 140k miles on it into my 89 GL10. Since doing so, about 1 out of 5-10 times, reverse is hard to find. It will shift into the reverse postion, but nothing is there, engine just reves up. If i play with it, shift it around, i can feel where it finally goes in. Other times, i can drive it all day, and never have a problem. Linkage/bushings, or internal issue? Anyone had a similar problem?

True....but not so fond of cutting up company tools. Its great being able to take them home and use them...but cutting them up wouldetn go over so well. But making something like the pic above is doable.

Cant do...Permantly crimped together. I got intake gaskets today. Think its internal, for the amount of coolant its losing, but not seeing any on or under the engine. But i havent had time to get it up in the air and really check it out.

1989 EA82t, My coolant is going somewhere...I can smell it. But i cant see it. First thought was, of course, head gaskets. Compression is 115 on 3, 120 on the other. Block Checker didnt find combustion gasses in the radiator. While im sure it could still be the head gaskets, anything else it could be? My pressure tester wont do the small cap radiators.