Knichol
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Everything posted by Knichol
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WOW, I leave the site for a year or so and come back to a creation like this! That is great! I'd love to see it in action.
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Does anyone know where you can get the washers that go behind the castle nut on the front hub? I am sure they have a specific name I am just not that savy to know it. (Besides the dealer - they have them for an arm an leg and have to order them) -
Does anyone know if you can remove the hub assembly off of the front of the AC compressor and not lose the charge?
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Are there any AC experts that are part of our forum? If so, please PM me or post a reply. Thank yoU!
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$10.00 for a permit pick up at the ranger station.
http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/news/2008/nr-2008-christmastree-permits-111308.shtml
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So what i was thinking was using the subaru to tow the frame over. Spend the first night pulling all the parts you want, tires, suspension, etc. Then the second night place the body over the frame and start with the piece fab and placement. This probably would run into a thrid night to get body and frame secured, then pull it back to my house so it's out of your hair and back in my yard to were i can finish the details to actaully get it running! Is this ok with you? I can help move things around whenever
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when would be a good time to make the body swap, the frame is ready! This means you get the tires.
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You need another nissan tcase? I have one forsale! I am probably a week away for those tires.
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John told me the same thing and it may be true, but when he first told about it he said it was kinda secret how he didn't want others finding out. He then went on to say it and was very difficult and thats why I should hire his services. Then I find out that the new and old front diffs are the same and they make them that fit right in, so know knows... :-\ Back to topic of thread... I have drove a welded diff for quite a bit on street and off. turning sharp you will end up churping tires and if your get into a muddy/snowy situation it tends to push you straight. The LSD works well until you get difference in grip. These LSD's are not as strong grip wise as the ones you maybe used to in american muscle cars or pickups.
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Good o' mudrat put a phantom grip I believe in the front of the lifted ranger that had a dual range in it and also tried selling d/r trans with posi front diffs (phantom grip). I also believe the WJM found that all the front diffs were basically the same so anything that works in a wrx or such would work for our old dual ranges. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49241&highlight=front I could be wrong though and this information could be bad, sorry if it is. Zap is right on the Welded diff. Having run large tires and a limited slip unit. You really limit where you can go once one rear tires starts to slip. Some have thought about putting a turning brake on the rears but I haven't seen/heard about good results there either.
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I'm coming! With the rains moving in i have been scrambling a bit to get things wrapped up. I also just realized that I can build this thing in my garage but it appears with rack an all that i will have to deflate the tires to get it out! You around saturday around noonish?
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I can swing by tuesday evening either right after work 4:50 ish or after dark 8:00 o clock ish. does that work?
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I have thought about that but I am a little concerned with appearance. I don't want it to look too funny. I had though about extending the frame a bit more and having less overhang front and rear. Do you have any TS?
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Hey scott!
I will need two pieces of 2x4" tube 13" in lenght. I am ready to cut the frame and extend it the 13" needed. When I cut the frame and weld in the extentions, What would you recommend doing to keep it strong? I was thinking taking a two pieces of 4"x 12" plate and bridging the welds on each end of the added 2x4 tube.
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excellent, thats the same number I came up with as well on first measurement, but was going to check it. Roughly how long does that make the driveshaft between the transmission and tcase? Did youd leave the sammy fuel tank? I haven't checked clearance on it, but am tempted to leave it there and plumb it in to have dual tanks.
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Ok, rear end assembly: The rearend that is in it was destroyed but came with all new parts just needed to be assembled. On the passenger side: After I got the axle out and inspecting the seal, I noticed a plastic ring. Looks kinda like a fender washer but has slotted holes around it and is located to the inside the axle housing just inside of the seal. Is it supposed to be there? Its in there loosely and can slide freely.
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The front setup going back to stock. The way it is now is just plain scary. As it extends the entire axles shift to the right and then the oppisite happens on compression, not a big fan of how its done. I will be doing a 4 link system in the rear once I get it up and running but for now all stock to get her up and running . It is nice seeing pictures of how its supposed to be setup. I have some more sami questions if you have any knowledge about them?
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Nothing small enough for a little 2.2 liter. I have a couple in the 750cfm range. I do have a couple extra plates that would work!
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it would be interesting to compare power of FI and Carb. I suspect with the limitations of the stock programing you could make the Carb'd motor more powerful?