sam888

1991 Legacy LS Forester Struts&Springs 205/75R15 Tires

1991 Legacy LS 1998 Forester Struts/Springs 205/75R15 Tires

Ok I think I should let you all know how this story ended but first of all thanks to all how posted with advice. I had forgotten about the many uses of the cheater bar (probably invented in the caveman era) and the inpossible axle nut video was just too funny. So I decided to remove the hub from my subaru and when I compared it one I pulled out it wasn't going to work. Apparently there is a difference between my ABS model and the non-abs. So I decided to buy bearings and seals and have my local subie shop do the technical work for me. I just finished installing the rebuilt hub and there's no noise and the car runs great. Even though I lost some money I value the learning experience and when the next bearing goes out on one of my two subarus I'll go into it with knowing that I make a totally new mistake. Thanks again and by the way if anyone is looking for a front pass side hub and axle unassembled i'll let it go for really cheap. Taken off of I think a 90 Legacy wagon. Seattle area. best, sam

Hi all, I need advice on removing the hub nut from front wheel. First off here are the initial conditions: Hub and drive shaft are removed and not on the vehicle. I picked this part at local junk yard. Car is 1991 Subaru Legacy wagon. Nut size is 32mm accross flats. I tried using my 1/2" breaker bar while clamping part on a vise and can't seem to break it loose (going to gym and working out might take to long). I also tried to use an impact wrench (a cheapy one rated at 350ft/lbs) and no luck there either. I didn't have any wd40 on hand so I didn't try that. Question: This does remove counter clockwise right? Should I try to get my hands on more powerful impact wrench? Any tips are appreciated. I'm thinking I might just let a professional handle it but I thought I'd try some suggestions from this newsgroup first. thanks, Sam

As always a great place for advice. Thanks to all ! sam

All, I have a 91 legacy with a manual 5 spd transimission. The transmission has been making noises for a few years and recently has started to pop out of 4th gear. I'm looking for a used replamentment but am unsure which years of legacies are compatible. Do any of you know? thanks, sam

I could use some advise on how to remove the driver side rear camshaft seal. Engine is not removed. Is there a special tools or techinique? sam

I prefer to do my own disk brake jobs but i don't have the ability to machine the discs. I have used Les Schwab in the past and they do an excellent job but they charge $80 bucks to do the machining. I recently tried a local mom and pop auto parts place which only charged me about $25 but the quality was not as good (the surfac finish was rougher) and I suspect that this is now the reason I get an ever so slight vibration when I brake on the right front wheel and yes I did use Subaru OEM brake pads with the shims and grease. If anyone knows of a good machine shop in the south seattle area or anywhere in Seattle that will do good job for less then $80 I would appreciate it. sam

I had a similar problem a couple of years back it was gradual and eventually the window would not go up until I pulled it will pushing the switch. Although your problem may be caused by something else here is what I did and I haven't had problems since. Remove the inside panel so you have access to the main mechanism and put grease on the track and the rollers. Good Luck Sam

I used to go to Brian's Subaru until Brian retired now I use Superior Auto formerly Superior Subauru same owner in Burien area. They seem like good guys and have done good work on both my subaru's. (206) 433-1709

Original post is here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94305 I just wanted to give an update and thank you all for the very useful advice. The problem was as far as I can tell caused by air in the system which was the result of not properly filling and purging the radiator when replaced. The reason the problem was there before I replaced the radiator was almost certainly caused by the old radiator leaking. What I did to fix it. A simple 15 minute burping at a cost me $0 since I had some antifreeze on hand. I did not replace the radiator cap or thermostat. Leaking HG was mentioned but I don't think that was it. I haven't experienced a loss in coolant and I did not see any traces of water in drained oil on my last oil change. My heater is working great and I am staying nice and toasty.

I have reviewed all the post on my questions and I am not surprised at the wealth of information that I get from this message board. My father in law thinks I am a genious because I fixed his car when no mechanic in town could based on feedback I got from this message group. My thanks to all of you who have posted. Based on all of your suggestions I think the problem is probably caused by air/gas in the system although a plugged or retricted heater core is still a possiblity. I think I will start by replacing the radiator cap and doing what is referred to by some of you as a "burping". I have not looked at fluid loss or leaks that someting I will do. If that doesn't work then I willr replace the thermostat after that I will do a heater core purge/flush. Someone asked for the condition of the timing belt; I am not sure but it was replaced at about 200k miles. It was also mentiponed that the HG leak can be the cause of gases/air in the system if that is the cas I should be having overheating problems which I am not having although it is winter. Can it still be a HG even if I don't experience engine overheat? Also if the HG is shot how soon should I be thinking about replacing/fixing it? At the moment the car runs fine. Thanks again for all your help.

I did a search on this problem and these are the closest that describe what I have but not quite. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33438&highlight=intermittent+heater http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86957&highlight=intermittent+heater Here is what I have 1991 Leg LS Wagon; 217k miles Orig Engine. Radiator replaced 5 months ago but problem was already there. I think the car overheated once when me and my wife were at the top of Hurrican Ridge Wa needle was past the half mark it did not reach the red zone. I pulled over right away and luckily coasted down in neutral to the ranger station where I was able to put water in it and made it home without problems since the leak was slow. Replaced the radiator at that time. The car warms up fine, temp gage gets to normal at normal rate and stays normal throughout the various driving conditions. I only get heat if the engine is reving at about 2000 rpm. If I am idline at below the air goes cold. I noticed that if I am going down hill or parked with front pointing down hill It is harder to get the heat to come thru even if I rev the engine. Coolant level is fine and the car does not overheat. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

That was what the attendant at the transfer station said. I have always wanted to take a picture of my Subaru loaded with stuff. This time it was loaded for a trip to the dump. Mostly boards, plywood, doors and partcicle board. The inside was loaded almost to the ceiling. In my opinion a Subaru with a roof rack is one of most versatile vehicles there is. The bike rack is back on and iIt's all vacuumed on the inside no trace of what it went through.

Check for a vacuum leak. Make sure all hoses are connected properly. Also check error codes there might be something there. Hope this helps.