Rhinoculips

Over three or four attempts, I bet I've shot nearly a half a can of throttle body cleaner into it. No dice. Water temp sensor, I believe, is new last fall.

I have a '91 Legacy with a NA EJ22 and manual tranny that is in need of a new IAC valve. This is no longer available through the dealership so I am stuck with used. Finding a used IAC from a manual donor is proving difficult. Is it possible to use one out of an automatic tranny donor? They have different part numbers so I dont know how they differ. Is it possible to just bypass this valve some how? I think I read about someone doing this. The symptoms - * Will not idle after a cold start. Having to hold the pedal down to keep it running. * After it is warm it fluctuates from 200-1000 rpms and sometimes even out to 500 rpms after cycling up and down a dozen times. When it does, a loudish "hmmmmmm" is coming from the valve that sounds almost like a radiator fan inside the intake hoses. This is not normal........ * I removed the solenoid from the top of the valve while engine was idling(300rpm's?) the sound mentioned above seems to be coming from the solenoid itself as it was vibrating heavily and humming in my hand * I can slowly coach it to idle, but it is on the low side (500rpm's) * Cleaning it with throttle body cleaner helped the first couple of times, but symptoms keep coming back and are now worse. Many thanks for the help. Ryan

From all the research I have done, this is a no no. Why this is, I don't know. They say to only adjust via the solenoid on top of the IAC valve. Since my IAC does not have this capability, the screws on the throttle body may be my only choice.

It idles some where between 1000-1100 rpm. The TPS's idle switch was correctly adjusted using a feeler gauge. So I am stumped.

Actually I should have mentioned that I was originally trying to fix a cyclical idle problem by shooting carb cleaner in the intake of the IAC. I did remove the solenoid part of the IAC to actuate the shaft up and down while I blasted its innards. The cyclical idle is fixed, now it just idles high. The engine is recently rebuilt and all vacuum hoses are brand new, so vacuum leaks/compression are most likely not the problem. If the idle is indeed unadjustable and fully controlled by the ECU, will it learn to idle as I drive it more?

From all the reading i have done, it seems that in order to adjust the idle you need to turn the solenoid on top of the IAC and NOT the throttle stop screw on the throttle body. On my '91 EJ22 (installed in a VW camper) the IAC solenoid has only one possible position. In other words, there are no slots for the two screws (that hold the solenoid to the valve) to allow the repositioning of the solenoid on top of the IAC. How do you adjust the idle with out these slots AND NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE STOP SCREW????? Many thanks for the help.

Thanks Emily! I am glad you replied. I wanted an unbiased reply from members of this forum as well as your side of the story and I got both. When getting ready to invest a large chunk of money into an engine and then receive an email like the one I got from this guy, honestly, I started to look elsewhere. Then I found this forum and your reputation here made me start to think twice about this fellows remarks. As my dad would say "He probably would complain if he was hung with a new rope" From the few negative remarks, all have stated that you have been working with them to help solve the problem. This is what I like to hear. Being a small business owner, I know the value of good customer service and how it builds ones reputation. I am confident that we are on the same level here. My decision is still up in the air. There are only two choices I am considering and your rebuilt EJ22 is one of them. Thanks again for your time Emily! ps - is CCR a member of the SubaruVanagon Yahoo group???

It was a complete EJ22 supplied for the soul purpose of converting a VW Vanagon. Thus, everything mounted on the block is included. I know this guy seemed out of line of everything else I have heard about CCR. It is most likely I will be going for one of their EJ22 just by there glowing reputation on this forum. There is a used EJ25 I am looking at and would love to have the extra power of, but bulletproof longevity will probably win over extra power. I had already checked the BBB site, but there is zilch on them. It appears Emily is reading this as I type...Hi! Thanks for the email yesterday. Will most likely give you a call on Monday to chat a little more on your services! Whats the expected life span of a quality rebuilt EJ22? Thanks for the input everyone!

Ok, I am looking at buying a rebuilt and fully complete EJ22 from Colorado Component Rebuilders (CCR) for installation into my VW Westfalia camper. I have seen nothing but good things about CCR. Even with the good reports here, I am hesitant to buy from them. Why you ask? A guy emailed me after seeing my post on SubaruVanagon Yahoo Group. What he said got me thinking twice about a CCR Engine. He asked me not to post his email on any forum. I don't know why. The gist of the engine he got from them, 1) a missing bolt for the A/C 2) a missing bolt for the oil pump and another partially backed out 3) a faulty power steering pump (took a week or more for CCR to say it was a warranty issue) 4)loose breather plate that ended up shooting oil all over the place. 5) shipped engine (which came out of an automatic according to the ECU and MAFS numbers they provided) with a manual intake manifold on an automatic engine. Wiring harness was built for automatic so that would not properly interface with the ICV on the manifold. Another 2 weeks waiting for parts and decision if it was warranty work. I don't know how truthful this fellow is. Maybe he is a disgruntled ex-employee of CCR. He sure has me thinking twice about a CCR engine. I haven't seen anything bad said about them on this forum, which is good. What I want to know is, has anyone else had a problem with CCR? Emily, feel free to chime in. I wouldn't mind hearing your input as well. Many thanks.

What is the benefit of engines with interference design? Seems to me that having a non-interference is more ideal in the "just in case" scenario. IE - why build an engine that can potentially destroy itself if the TB breaks when you can design one that won't?