Numbchux

hey! that's my car! I just used MS paint to put a dot where the trailing arm pivot point is. this means that the hub cannot get any closer, or further away from that point. so on upflex, the tire goes back, and on downflex, the tire moves forward some. but no issues, the high-clearance lift does put too much stress on the axles to be doing anything really nuts (I'm going to get a drop-plate from SJR for my diff), but not too bad. the independent suspension design means that the diff doesn't move, so the driveshaft doesn't need to compensate for anything, it's just dropped down with everything else BYB is the specialty on EA81 style lifts, however, I've hear that PK Davis isn't making them, at least for awhile. check the FAQ for the link to his site AA makes EA81 lifts, and they do great work! and have other options that are easier on axle angles too. SJR makes lifts, not sure about EA81 or not, but I bet he does, mostly higher ones, 6-8" or so. and if your in the area, Mudrat79 can make one. Oh yea...and let me know if you find a way to lower the gearing! not much possibility there though...

sounds like you're not going there... I know a few people out in the suburbs, and up north, that have a ton of land, and we rip those up quite a bit. but that's it!

I just used exhaust clamps. basically a beefed up c clamp, got it at champion auto. and morgan...I don't think your car sounds bad at all. I like mine better, but my glass pack was 2x as much as yours...

one more thing, trespassing, and destruction of wetlands etc. is what give ORV's a bad name, and therefore what causes more restrictions on legal use. Don't screw it up!

I don't think they sound bad. I love mine! there's a guy on mnsubaru that has a straightpiped impreza L with nothing but a glasspack, and nice wide tip, and it sounds AWESOME!! I like my car's sound, not 'ricey' but lower

inner diameter (ID) I think so, but outer diameter (OD) is 2", or very close, yes, I mounted it in the stock location, it's hard because there's a bend right before muffler, so you have to cut the pipe as close to it as possible, and make sure you get the clamp super tight (and recheck it while it's hot!), or weld it....this also means that it'll be held tight up against the heat sheild...and you will probably also want to put a tip on the end pointing down, otherwise your rear bumper will get hot and sooty..... didn't notice any performance increase, but the stock muffler was completely rusted through, no restriction there. and I *still* haven't removed the cat....that is where the power will come from.

I do know a couple spots, but they aren't that great, not really worth the drive, and I won't be in town until thanksgiving....but maybe then looks awesome kurt!

it's your responsibility to find out if it's private property or not, and therefore, your responsibility to find out if it's ok with the owner. I only go if the owner invites me to.

the driveshaft can only bolt back together in one of 2 orientations. the bolt pattern is not a square, so if you think it's off, try flipping it 180* the 2 halves of my driveshaft are from 2 different subies, no vibrations (actually less, since now my rear u-joints aren't seized...).

I have a Thrush glasspack on mine, otherwise stock exhaust. sounds quite nice, still pretty quiet because of the cats, but good sound. mine was about $30 shipped from ebay. The stock EA82 is a 2" OD pipe (get a glasspack with a 2" inlet)

2WD struts are shorter...

I'm thinking of haveing the pieces made into a 1-piece driveshaft, so when I get around to doing the 4WD swap on my loyale, I don't have to worry about the center bearing (as it will probably get lifted a year or 2 after I do the swap, so I don't want to weld it). anyone have anythoughts on this? I'm thinking since the diff and tranny stay essentially immobile, and there'd still be a u-joint at either end, it shouldn't be an issue. am I missing something?

so when I was putting everything together after my clutch/tranny job, I noticed that my 2nd and 3rd U-joints (from the front) where bad, especially the back one, it's impossible to move by hand! (for those of you at the MW3 campground....that would explain the sound!) luckily, I had a second driveshaft sitting in the garage (how nice!) and just popped it in. but can these be replaced? or should I start looking for a JY 4WD subie with low mileage?

my wagon just walkes right up a regular car ramp, I bet you'd need something taller than that!

yep, 86-89 (not sure, do a search to be sure, I know I've talked about it) honda accord FRONT springs fit on the BACK of EA82's. being that they are designed to hold up a motor, they're a bit stiffer, and taller. they'll lift your rear end an inch or 2. there isn't much aftermarket support for these old subarus, so almost the only way to get new shocks is to get genuine subaru parts form a dealer... speedo's just wrong....but proportionally (sp?), mine (after lift) is 20% off, so only about 5mph at 30, 10 at 50, and almost 20 at 80. but the smaller tires that came on my wheels left the speedo very close to stock. maybe try borrowing a gps and doublechecking it....I know some people with lifts have figured out exactly how much the difference is, and put stickers on the gauge to change where the numbers are, that's an option too.

hmmm..I don't have 'em on anything else, but I have extra stickers...and a laptop....and a bass case...and a cello case...and.....hmmmm

This is before I took off my swaybar, so all of my articulation is in the back!

may want to take off that bodykit, it's too hot to have torn off by a big bump!

are these 'new' radiators? or junkyard ones?

??? nothing get's replaced when drilling out your hubs, you just add a couple studs to each corner....

the tires in the picture are 195/60/r15's, they are what baccaruda had on them on his wagon: neither car is lifted, his is now lowered and on 5-lug wheels, and mine was on adjustables, but not adjusted down (lowest position) only problem I found was when I tried to take a load home from college, up the hill out of duluth (called little san fran for a reason!) the wider wheels rubbed on my fenders and the rear tires got hacked to hell. so if you do this, roll your fenders (the tops), or beat them, or get accord springs, or just don't carry 5-600lbs of stuff in the car while climbing large hills at freeway speeds... as for identifying the wheels, they have 'em stamped on them somewhere, otherwise, if they have tires, just look at the tire size, if the last number is 14 or 15...your good!

if they're the ones in your gallery...than they look awesome...but I don't see anything in this post

well, I haven't had any personal experience with 6-lugs. but I know someone who converted his wagon to 6 lug (he didn't drill out the wheels...btw), and used the subaru lug nuts while marking the holes for the other 4 studs. and now a couple of his wheels aren't centered (just on the rear drums, and I think he was going to convert to discs....so it may be fixed). These were also nice toyota alloys, so the lug nuts had big centering washers....(I'd recommend converting your hubs to 6-lug, not the other way around) The adjustable struts are great. but it will be much harder on your CV's, I'm not sure how much you've been following my AA lift...but I've eaten a number of CV joints in the last few months, and the front end design is very similar to the BYB kit, so I blame it primarily on my adjusted struts. and...I don't know anything about brats.....hope someone else chimes in for that!

Well, unless you convert to something more common (read: redrilling 6-lug steelies to 4-lug, or an entire 5-lug conversion), just what samo said. Allied Armament (pricey + shipping) or Pugs (more affordable, but rare, and usually + shipping) here are my 15" Pug alloys on my '85 GL (essentially a loyale, but with more options) with no lift. I'm not sure what you mean by metric tire sizes, stock GL/Loyales came with 185/75/r13's which is a metric size, but the only reason they're hard to find is the fact that the 13" rim size is rare. my lifted rig uses 215/75/r15 tires. I've never seen a tire shorter than 30" that wasn't metric. The only metric nightmare you could run into, is if you get the pug rims that are 390mm in diameter!

yea, you'll have to drive differently, but you should be some anyway with a lifted rig...