BobBrumby

Cept ej22t cd bocks

sorry they are called an rs not rx. Hehe silly me rx's over here usually have an ej25 usually or as you said the old gen ea turbos (edited original post might make sense now)

Can anyone tell me if the awd rear strut tops are different to fwd? I have recently converted my legacy wagon to awd but needed to use my original rear 95 gen2 fwd strut tops on the 93 gen1 rs rear struts and springs I used for the conversion. I had to do this as the gen1 rs strut tops has the studs in a slightly smaller circle where the strut top bolts to the body. I am aware that awd and fwd struts run at slightly different agnles because of the difference to where they bolt to the different hubs. So should the fwd rears stay or go for some awd spec? Cheers

My liberty now has a new trick up its sleeve now when the headlights are on it turns off the interior lights, the ones behind and speedo and climate control. Does this symptom still point to a dodgy switch?

Yeh if you pull it towards you it it will turn the high beams on untill till you release it.

On my gen2 liberty when the head lights are on, about every week or so, the highbeams turn themselves on. To get them to turn off I just turn the high beams on then off and all will be fine again. I was thinking maybe some new relays for the headlights?

Oh i worked it out it raises the seat

Close to the drivers side seat tilt lever on my 95 lx liberty there is another conrtol that has a teloscopic slide out extension, just whats it meant to do? Tried to use it I have felt no difference.

I have had my 160,000km 95 liberty ej22 for 2500km now with just the one problem. I think one of the injectors is leaking because it takes 3-4 cranks to start if you have not driven it in a while. When you start the engine just after turning it off it starts on the first crank. This happens exactly the same no matter hot or cold, this is why I think it may be a leaky inkector. Should the fuel pump presurise when you key on or when the altinator starts turning like the ea's? Is it just the two o rings per injector?

Just an update: resetting the ecu has fixed the idle issue thanks for the help OB99W.

Alright I just disconnected my battery, Ill see in the morning if anything happens. Do I need to hold the pedal for the floor for two seconds and then at half throttle for two seconds when I turn on the car before starting?

Yeh that makes sence as it was adding petrol for the vacuum leak and now that its gone does not know what to do with the 'extra' air its now seeing. How do you test a fuel pressure regulator?

Found A broken vacuum hose on gen2 liberty's ej22 it runs to the fuel pressure regulator so I reconnect it. Now when you first start the car the idle osilates between 250rmp and 1000rpm till it petters out after going up and down up to 2 or 3 times. I thought my car would run better with a functioning fuel pressure regulation system? Could this be the ecu relearning?

How come when the fuel pressure regulator gets a vac signal the idle does that ossilation thing? The fuel pressure regulator on my car still holds a vacuum. How should I go about this, connect it and live with the strange idle? Or just plug the barb on the manifold.

Ok silly me found the barb on the manifold under the brake booster valve. Funny thing is, with the line replace and the valve plumbed back into the intake every time you start the car does the hi idle thing at 1100rpm then drop down a bit to like 1000rmp but then it keeps dropping to about 250 the idle then ossilates between 250 and 1000rmp till it peters out at 850rmp. I then tried disconecting it and starting the engine again, With the valve disconected the idle is fine, it starts 1100rpm then drops to 850. For a start does anyone know the valve I am taking of? What does it do? Could that ossilation thing be the ecu relearning maps now the valve on the fuel rail is doing something? Took it for a drive with it re-connected it feels fine, just the idle problem. Just a bit of a shock that reconnecting a valve which was disconected can make a engine idle like that.

I just picked up my gen2 liberty wagon great car so far and this is my second subaru. I was looking over the engine bay today and saw there is valve on the left hand side fuel rail, my problem is that the vacuum line that connects to this valve is snapped with about 12inch of vac hose still connected to the valve. I cant find any bare barbs on the motor, where should this valve be connected to?

When I did mine a tiny ammount of the altinator bracket hangs up on the underside of the carb base. Just cut off this corner, you will see what I mean, I used a dremel and did it with the bracket still bolted to motor. Also the barb for disty vac adance has to be bent slightly to clear the thermostat housing.

I dont understand I have a brumby and have never seen a "flappy compartment on the side" what are you talking about? optional extra?

I have been suspect of my cooling system ever since I bought my brumby 50,000 km ago, its now got 305,000 km on it. It had a leaky radiator and various leaking pipes. I replaced the radiator and cap, coolent lines and thermostat shortly after purchasing. Although I have replaced every single coolent line, except the ones running to the heater core and now have no noticable leaks it still uses a little water. For some reson it does not want to top it self up fully from the resiviour bottle, the bottle will be full and the you check the water in the radiator and you can see row or two. The headgasket seems to have an intermitant leak as I opened it once when hot, slowly be it, and I could see bubles, took it up to our mechanic and he couldnot find any exhuast gasses in the coolent. I have no coolent in oil or visa vera. Went on a camping trip this easter 400km round trip got home and I thought I would check for bubbles and no doubt there were bubbles. On a side note I got 300 miles from that tank which is the most I have ever gotten, usually she gets arround 220miles per tank arround the city. It also has started to run hotter, 1/3 instead of 1/4 whilst driving and while sitting at idle it will creep up to 1/2 but then I normally turn on my accessory fan to bring it back down. Once the water got real low and it got to about 3/4 temp I then relised that and shut her down and left the fan on to cool it. I talked to the previous owner, who is one of my sisters friends, she said she never had done the head gasket so they are likely to be orriginal. Probably not a intake gasket issue as I put on an ea82 manifold with oem gaskets not long ago. I know allot of stuff to read but Is this most probably a Hg issue?

Yeh i am taking it into our mechanic get a head check done pretty sure its HG but dont want to goto all that effort to find something else is at fault, should find out in a couple of days time. In the mean time I am riding my bike and driving my parents suzuki sierra (so its not all bad ).

1. No clouds of steam from the tail pipe 2. The white bubles show up after you get it warmed up but not when cold. The bubbles has the same appearence as the head on a beer. 3. Pretty sure it aint just the intake gaskets as i have changed them twice and that would not explain the bubles 4. Carb base is right, i forgot to mention that I put a webber on and jb welded the choke coolent passage need for the old hitachi carb 5. Heater core bypass has new hoses on the engine side and just the orriginals after the valve 6. I have an overflow bottle but it just gets emptied as the motor looses coolent How much coolent has to get burned before you start seeing clouds of steam? Will a small HG leak cause these symptoms? I might do an ej conversion if it is a HG problem as this motor is gettin a bit long in the tooth 300k km, any sugestions?

My ea81 brumby has been using water since i bought it, since then I have replaced all the leaky hoses but still have not stopped the leak. I was checking it today and removed the rad cap just after a drive, and yes i did it very slowly, I thought I had the dreaded milkshake in my radiator but it was really just fine bubbles. I checked the dipstick and the oil still looks like oil. How would the bubbles get in my coolent? This sounds like the begining of a headgasket failure right? Cylinders leaking into the coolent passages? Will a compression test diagnose the situation?

Sorry i cant help you on the first question but on the second one, the vac advances the the timing. The carbi distributers use a combination of vac advance and mechanical advance to achieve their total ammount of advance. Hope that helps

i have the carbed version so I 'should' only have one t piece on the pcv valve side hose. Curently I have it running straight out of the valve cover to the valve, no t piece. What is the purpose of the t piece, no. 14 on ur diagram, that has the approx 1/4" id tube running to the air cleaner? I remember in the stock air cleaner there is a small filter when the pcv get its 'fresh air' from, do you need this?