zenofchaos

Yeah, I figured Schucks must have dropped the ball AGAIN. I'm just concerned that the gouge on the right side above the gouge line left by the roll pin is mangled enough that the correct axle won't fully mount...

OK, here's the pic. You can see the damaged area, and where it looks like a line was taken out toward the bottom.....

Ok, got an update. It's been a while since I could work on the Subie between the weather, and then coming down with the swine flu. I took a good look at the shaft coming out of the tranny that the axle mounts up to, and noticed that a couple of the splines are pushed into the other splines. I'm thinking that maybe the mechanic did get the axle together, but the mangled splines caused it to slip? Am I going to need a new tranny now? I'm gonna grab some batteries for my digi, and upload a pic of the damage.

That's great. Caboo's already pulled my subie from the fire a few times in the past. I haven't had time to really get to the axle because of the weather here. Also, I ran into some issues finding the correct roll pin. I found one slightly larger, and one slightly smaller as far as the diameter goes. The slightly smaller one lengthwise is slightly too big. Will this cause an issue? I know that people have held the axle on with finishing nails, wire coathangers, etc.

Nah, I'm gonna get a roll pin tomorrow, and attempt to hook up the axle, and see if the broken pin makes a difference, or even if the axle was completely on in the first place. For now I'm going to work on the clutch slave cylinder in my Fiero. I think it's closer to being on the road then the subie at this point. Thank you everyone for your help, and I'll let you know how it goes....

So, the "mechanic" tore himself away from the other project he was working on. We jacked the subie up, and he checked the roll pin. Upon touching it we realized it was only a 1/4" of pin, the rest of it is gone. the "mechanic" told me that he had a bit of resistance getting the pin in, so he was "pretty damn sure" the axle was on all the way, and that he didn't come up short So, if I were an optimistic person I would think it would be case closed, new roll pin, but I have a suspicion something's toasted that caused it. So, stupid question, where do I procure a new roll pin? Do they differ all that much? Am I just wasting my time, and should pull the whole damn thing apart again?

Damn, I double checked the box part number online, but never actually verified that the axle in the box was correct. I'll check for grindage On a side note, it was a cardone reman. Before everyone starts yelling (and I KNOW it will happen) it was all I could find at a moment's notice. I will definately be returning it and getting a proper one, like the new GCK's I put on it 4 months ago. I'll just have to wait for Napa.... I was hoping for a quick fix, and should have known better.:-\

It was the roll pin, not the cotter pin. Come to think of it, he did say that he had to beat the old one out for quite a while, but the new one went on pretty easily. Sounds like maybe he didn't cinch it up...... Also, I don't think I mentioned it, I picked up a new axle because the old one sheared apart (looked like someone grabbed the axle right along the outside boot and twisted until it snapped)

Ok, I'm going to try and explain this to the best of my ability. I'm at the moment. First, basic info. I have an '88 GL wagon 5SP Dual range 4x4. Last Friday my axle broke in my driveway. Turned out that the wheel bearings grenaded, and ended up taking out my new cv axle. I got a mobile mechanic to do the replacement, as I don't have the tools or the time at the moment because of work to fix it. After getting the new bearings in place, the mechanic "reassembled" my car. When I got home, I drove 30 feet, and the axle fell off from the transmission. The mechanic is tied up until Sunday, and I'm still without a vehicle. So the pin is still in the axle, but obviously it still fell off. Does anyone know if a *&^ up in the reassembly procedure can cause this? I'm kinda hoping to fix it by myself at this point. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as I am out of money for car repairs (bearings, axle, and paying the id10t to take it out in the first place) Thank you in advance for your help:dead:

Yeah, it creates a warming sensations for your subie's pleasure:brow:

.........always scan your gauges at 30 - 45 second intervals. Saved my rump roast a few times in the ole subie. Hopped on I-5 north this afternoon. Get up to highway speed. After about 30 seconds, I check my gauges, and the needle's starting to creep into the red So I shut down the car (while rolling at 60) and pull off to the right. At first I thought it was the crank pulley, but the symptoms weren't there (ALL lights come on, no amps, no power steering). When I come to a stop, I see it: steam coming up from the motor.... SOOO one upper radiator return hosed completely split down the middle. I let loose a nice slew of carefully chosen cuss words, and proceed to walk to the nearest car parts place (Schucks, about 5 miles away) If anyone saw the white subie in between the 188th/Orilla Rd exit and entrance, that was me. I don't get 100 feet from my poor car, and a lady pulls over and offers me a ride She even offered to wait for me while I pick up the hose, and a few gallons of the green stuff! Thank Odin for good samaritans! After thanking the lady profusely, I proceed to fix my car on the side of the freeway. It's not fun when one of those semis cruise by at 70 and shakes the whole car when you're trying to add antifreeze. Anyway, I get all the bubbles out 20 minutes later, and back on the road! I've driven her 50 miles since then, and she's doing well, with one small exception, which brings me to my update. Y'all may not recall, but I had my crank pulley come off a couple weeks ago. I noticed when looking at the engine running today that it was wobbling slightly. I turned off the engine, and checked the bolt. Totally tight, so I figure that the wobble came from when I drove a few miles with it loose, and wore it down a bit. I think maybe it might have worn unevenly from hanging there. So basically my question to the guru's is: How much wobble in your crank pulley is too much wobble?

1988 Subaru GL 5sp 4X4 Just turned 208,000. Original motor, freshened up with new gaskets, oil pump (thanks Russ!)

Ok, I guess I'll throw this out there. First of all, let it be know my symptoms were somwhat different (kinda rough idle, no tach fluctuation though, and a stumble between 1500-3500) What did I do? Clean the MAF sensor! There's a much better guide somewhere around here that's better then I could explain it, but it took care of 85% of my issue. If you do a search, I'm sure you'll find it.

Well, I guess I know what to do if it comes off again. Thanks for everyone's help!