roadtojoy123

The hoses are all on correctly. The iacv was removed, cleaned with MAF cleaner, and reinstalled with a new gasket. Any way to diagnose iacv to insure its proper function? Also, with regards to camshaft timing, could it have changed enough to cause no start condition? Timing belt was replaced about 5k miles ago and car ran fine, aside from the tps code that started this mess. Is it possibly camshaft sensor?

Ok...i am totally stumped. I've got a 97 legacy, 2.5l and its got roughly 210,000 miles. I don't know the history of the car before 200,000. I had a CEL for my tps sensor, and a high idle (1500)Bought new one and couldn't adjust it into range- id pushed it as far as i could in the slots, and it was very close. I noticed that if i pushed the throttle body a bit further,i would get correct value, so i put it all back together, thinking i should clean/inspect the iacv and go from there. Mind you at this point car ran. At this point i drove it for a few days, and the CEL started blinking, with misfires on 1&3. I then proceed to clean iacv, and replace ignition coil. When i try to start, i get a no start condition. The starter seems like it runs, and today, i pulled spark plug #1 and it gets spark. Replacing the spark plug did not help, and recall that car ran on old spark plugs not a week ago. Seems like the timing is off on the coil, is this possible. Timing belt was replaced about 5000 miles ago and car ran fine until iacv overhaul. I am stumped.any ideas?

I was playing around in the brat...when, suddenly, it sounded like it turned into a harley. I looked around, and it seems that the bolts that hold the exhaust pipe against the engine block are GONE! eep! they must have shakened loose. with that being said, would anyone do me the favor of popping one of the bolts out of their EA-81 style and telling me what size bolt I need to shop around for? playing the buy and try method is always a drag.

thanks...Ill try that when i re-build her.

if the boot got overfilled with grease, they did it at the factory, cause i bought a whole new joint. the boot is torn like it got cut, and the joint is running fine, no clicks or crazy jostling of car. i could see how it getting stretched due to it being a bit to short may have torn it. wouldnt the heat from the cat cause joint failure and not boot tearage? are there different sized cvs? did i accidentally install a drivers side CV into the pass. side, and over stretched her? i guess im gonna get good at fixing these, the more I read about them, the more it seems like they were made to practically be disposable on these rigs.

So...I recently replaced a front CV in my brat, and just notices that the boot on the DOJ side tore. why do the boots tear? did I not do something correctly on the install? both ends seem be flush with where the original was? secondly, if im gonna replace the boot only, any suggestions on where to purchase a more tear resistant boot? any advice appreciated.

thanks for all the advice. tommorow I will attempt to jump direct to the starter, and see if the starter is the issue. i dont think its clicking any louder than it used to...only difference is now instead of turning the engine, it just clicks. it could very well be a bad connection somewhere, as previous to no start, on cold mornings it would take a couple of key-turns with no turn over to get her started, but once warm, started right up. ill start to fuss with it some more tommorow and see if one of your awesome suggestions is the issue. hopefully.

tried cleaning charging batery, and hokin up to alternator, nothing. any other suggestions? is there a schematic floating around anywhere? it seems to be a wiring issue in the ignition-al region.

so. my 82 brat wont start. for a while it was having trouble in the cold and now just wont start. doesnt even try to turn over. starter makes clicking noise when key in on position; all other electronics work. no voltage going to starter from ignition. any suggestions? im not an electrically competent dude.

ok. so I just recently put in anew CV axle on the front right side ofmy 82 brat. the instructions said something aboutthe cv axle sperating from heat if there is no heat sheild installed on my exhaust. whats a heat sheild look like? where can i find one if there isnt one slapped on my exhaust already? can i sort of rig one out of some kind of insulating material? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. also, when i go to replace the left front axle, is there anything i need to know or special tricks to make it go super easy? ive read ed rachs axle article, thatshow i got the right one replaced. thanks ed! very informative.

nice durania! thats pretty thorough. just got them off... they are pretty sticky, and the little plastic knobs are kind of sun-rotten. much appreciated insider tips on keeping this lil beaster running, and looking, awesome!

well theres the "trick" or lack thereof. thanks hatch.

good to know about the EA-81 dash swap. if your looking to get rid of the spare t-tops, i might be interested. Ill have to snoop around for the oil pan trick, as that will be first on the list of things to do.

I live in lake tahoe. I cannot avoid salted roads. will frequent car washes in the winter months help? I figured if i wash it once a week... any other suggestions to keep the salt from dissolving my car.

thanks guys! shes in pretty amazing condition.I wont say I got it for cheap, as ive seen my share of >1000 brats, I def. got a good deal.ill try to post pics of the engine and interior in a little bit. aside from the requisite cracked dash, missing a/c vent grille, faulty dome light(probably just need a bulb), the interior is in like-new condition. the t-tops lil locker bars are pretty sticky. are t-tops and other interior parts(dash) hard to find? any info on fixing is greatly appreciated. also has a small leak on oil pan, probably junky gasket. is replacing the gasket straight-forward? do i have to pick-n-pull the gasket or is there a good place to find em online?