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newsooby

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  • Location
    Massachusetts
  • Interests
    cycling, kayaking, photography
  • Occupation
    Web Project Manager

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Member (2/11)

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  1. Wow -- this was a little disappointing -- 15% chance of a rollover if your Outback is involved in a single car accident! http://aolsvc.news.aol.com/news/article.adp?id=20040810101209990006 Thoughts?
  2. Yup -- everything checked out. Mechanic charged refrigerant and the compressor kicked on, but it wouldn't hold pressure. Dye test revealed the leak to be at the condensor -- badly corroded. Oh well, it will have to wait until I find a new job since I'm in no position to spend $500 to fix it. I'll just use "Four-fifty-five" - four windows open at 55 mph!
  3. Lothar, sorry for the delay in responding. The whole AC system appears to be OK, except for the condenser which is completely rusted out. It's going to cost me $279 for the unit, and about $150 in labor to install. Now I know I live in New England, and our roads are covered with salt 7 months a year, but to have a condenser unit rust out after 5 years just sucks! My mechanic said he's never seen a Sube with an AC problem, but apparently there's a first time for everything!
  4. Yup -- we finally get some warm weather and my AC is out of commission! I first noticed it when I was driving down the highway, hit the button, and it just kept pumping hot air. At first I thought it just needed to be recharged, but when I got home, I parked the car, hit the button again, and it didn't sound like the compressor was kicking on. I went back out on the road, hit the button, and didn't even get that brief "lag" that typically happens when you turn the AC on when traveling at low speed. I checked the fuses and nothing was burned out, and there are four separate AC relays which I haven't touched. Is there an easy (and cheap) way to check and test this? I recently lost my job so I'd rather not spend big $$ (or any $$) to figure this out. I'd rather bring it to my mechanic having narrowed down the problem myself. Thanks in advance to all responders.
  5. Cookie and etam -- if it helps you pinpoint the exact date -- I've got a '99 OBW with a 2.5 DOHC built in June 1999. Unless they built my car with leftover parts at a later date (a distinct possibility) I think it's safe to say the SOHCs were added to the Outbacks sometime after June 1999. So, other than keep our fingers crossed, what do those of us with 2.5 DOHCs do? :-\
  6. Sam -- any chance you could post a picture indicating where the clamps you tightened are located? My car has "the smell" but I can't locate any accumulation of gas anywhere (a good thing...sort of). Thanks, Doug aka newsooby
  7. Do you have a dab of color, or, colored lettering and numbers on the engine block? I asked the service manager at my dealer what the paint dabs were all about (yellow and sometimes orange) and he said they indicate two things -- inspection marks from the manufacturer's inspection (if it has a mark, it's been inspected). And/or, inspection marks from the dealership when inspecting and prepping a used car for sale (usually a different color). Number and letters?! Could indicate the block came from a junkyard, or has been remanufactured?!?! I don't know much about aftermarket/replacement engines (and hope I never need to find out the hard way!!)
  8. This has not gone un-noticed by the mountain biking commmunity, which has enjoyed Subaru sponsorship: http://www.dirtragmag.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2229 Snowman, I agree that economics will keep SOA from building them cheaper (for now) since they are tooled up for unibody construction, etc. But if sales of GM SUVs ever decline, maybe they'll retool one of their truck assemply plants to build Subies (regardless of the configuration). Regarding the role of "principles" in this issue: Apparently the faction within SOA with principles and who cares about the environment (marketing?!) is being pushed aside by the accountants. Principles are the first thing to be thrown out when the potential for higher profits comes into play. It's not right, but it is real. Let's face it -- if SOAs accountants were "principled" there would have been a head gasket recall years ago.
  9. Brompy, do you recall what year vehicles were effected by this recall? I've got a '99 with declining MPG -- I suspect the O2 sensor -- and I've been looking for info to see if there was O2 sensor recall for '99s. Can you send me a URL to the information? Thanks.
  10. Yes, the 2005s may use the same engine, but here's the potential problem: Strictly from a "business" perspective, if Subaru took the time and expense to get the Outback reclassified as a truck, you can be sure they'll eventually start building them like trucks. Trucks and SUVs typically cost less to build, hence the profits for auto makers are larger. Subaru (or GM) is doing this to capitalize on the success of the Outback name which they'll probably cheapen by producing substandard vehicles -- cheap "ladder" frames instead of the safer unibody construction, heavier (lower gas mileage), etc. I bought my OBW because I wanted AWD without the stigma of driving a gas guzzling SUV. Note: I don't like the Sierra Club guy either -- 'cause they don't like mountain bikers. :moon: Looks like my next new (used) Subaru will be a Brighton wagon. That's not a bad thing y'know! IMHO they are a pretty sexy-looking vehicle I love my Outback, because, unlike an SUV, it really CAN do it all (except for maybe the most extreme stuff). I just hope Subaru doesn't screw up a good thing!! :-\
  11. Took car to mechanic. He couldn't find any evidence of any water or coolant leaks anywhere. Asked me if anyone parks their car in front of mine?! My wife backs her Camry up to my OBW's front bumper. When she starts her car in the morning, she lets it run for 10 - 15 minutes to warm it up (I keep telling her to STOP doing this!). Anyway, it DID snow last night. Apparently, her car's exhaust pipe melted all the snow and ice on my car, and her car, leaving this icy spot on the lower bumper of my car. There was a Camry on the mechanic's lot, and the exhaust pipe lined up perfectly with the "melt spot" on my bumper. I took the OBW for a car wash, then checked everything over. No evidence of water or coolant! Whew! I just need to be less paranoid!! While I was at the garage, one of the mechanics was ordering a set of head gaskets for a 2000 Forester with 80K on it. Bummer. We both laughed at the fact that Subaru denies there is a problem with head gaskets. Lying b******s!
  12. This morning I noticed an accumulation of ice on the lower part of the passenger side bumper of my 99 OBW. Since we haven't had significant snow, ice or other precipitation in a few days, the appearance of ice at this location was odd. I popped the hood and checked the radiator, and everything looked OK until I noticed that the lower left (passenger) side of the radiator had a slight accumulation of ice/frost inside the grating (all the nooks and crannies). (This was before starting the car) I checked the coolant overflow tank and there is just a small quantity of coolant in the bottom -- less than there would be on a warm day. The car warms up to temp in about 1 mile. Everything seems to be working OK. Is the ice just the result of condensation from the warm/hot radiator pushing into the sub-zero air? Is my radiator frozen/plugged in the lower section? Things to consider: - The temps here in Massachusetts have been below zero just about every day/night for about two weeks. - Car is not garaged. - Car reaches temp in the same amount of time it would on a warmer day (1 mile). - Except for the accumulation of ice, everything seems to be functioning OK. All feedback, ideas, input would be appreciated. Thanks
  13. Can anyone recommend an alternative to AAA (American Automobile Association). The last time I needed their "services" last winter they couldn't find me!! I was on a primary route between two intersections! :temper: Well, our family membership is up for renewal and I'm looking for an alternative to these clowns. :wave: We live in Massachusetts. Thanks in advance for feedback.
  14. There is (supposed to be) a thin round metal plate on the inside/back of the socket assembly that keeps the ball from moving freely. Have you ever disassembled the ball and socket assembly before? Usually when people disassemble it, this piece of metal falls out unnoticed. When they reassemble it, the mirror is all loose and floppy. It is possible the metal piece is still in there and is just "punched in." If it is still in there, disassemble the socket assembly, slip the disk out of the holding slot, flatten it as much as possible, reinsert it into the slot it came from, and reassemble the whole thing. I posted a more detailed description on this board a few years ago (!!!). Try searching on "rearview mirror" or by newsooby. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more information.
  15. Does anyone have a ballpark figure on cost of replacing both O2 sensors -- independent mechanic cost not the stealer? Thanks.
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