scubaroo

I own a 90 Lagacy AWD 5/m with 210k I don't think the viscous coupling has ever been changed. When making slow tight turns (ie, turning in to a parking space) my car shudders a little, this is normal. If the viscous coupling unit went out you would have either no drive (unit is not coupling) or vary notisable binding (unit is locked up). A quick way to tell if the unit is locked up is to jack up one tire and try to turn it . If it turns with some resistance your OK if not The unit is locked up. Good luck

Just did a 2500 mile trip from NW Arkansas to Virginia Beach VA. and back and avg. 27 mpg. doing 70 to 80 mph. in a '90 Legacy L wagon AWD 5/mt 208000 k 0 oil consumtion.

my first subaru 79 wagon 4wd: scubaru: (lots of rain, early morning, dip in road 50 mph). trip home, more rain, flooding river, water over road 12 inches deep. second subaru 86 dl wagon d/r 4wd: subie current 90 ledacy awd wagon: suzie micl 88 plymouth grand fury x cop car: janie from sammy hagar plain jane 66 dodge truck: katie from star trek voager kathern janeway, she all ways got us home

The po-Lice must not have anything else to do; like find real crimenals like Martha Stewert or George Bush. Tally ho the Fox hunt is on. give em h*ll Fox:grin:

Well its been a few days now and all is OK. temp fluxuates but no over heating and never gets above normal

:madder: DID THEY HAVE A WARRENT? I'm no lawer but I feel they did not have proble cause. If they had been driving I say throw the book at them. I hate drives under the influence:mad: But since they were not in the car but inside the man should leave them alone. Well sit back and chill the trip was a sucsess (sorta) have a cold one:drunk: and reflect at the journy of a lifetime. A year from now you'll look back and have good laugh. BOTTOMS UP:drunk:

110... 90 Legacy AWD wagon 5spd up hill still pullen in 4th. Had to get out of it needed to turn off. S-10 Blazer 4.3L tried to not let me pass. 80 in third went to 4th bye bye...:wave:

In the sept. 2002 of Sport Compact Car on page 260 they tell you how. this is what they did to a 02 WRX . 1. Exposes the fuse box, and remove it from the mounts to expose the back 2. Splice a 6 to 10 inch wire into the park light power feed on the back of the fuse box 3. Find the fog light relay and then find the power wire that is hot only when the low beams are on. 4. Cut and tape this wire (but leave some on the back of the relay) attatch the new lead to the relay. 5. now your fog lights will be on when the park lights are on and your head light on low or high, but you can turn them off with the factory switch.

:wave:CONGRATS FOX!!! :banana: Sounds like the trip of a life time, y'll have fond memories. drive to live; live to drive:headbang:

:brow:hummmm: cut off roof, weld doors, replace windsheild, paint flat black (flames opptional), and have fun in the sun Just thinking aloud. GOOD LUCK!:wave:

:wave: OK. I'v removed the thermastat and modified it by removing the inerds. I was going to do this to the old thermastat but because the new one had a smaller opening 1 inch vs. 1.4 inches it would slow the coolent just a little bit to let the radiator do its job. let it idle for a while, temp came up slowly and reached normal and stopped no fans came on. went for a drive temp normal at all speeds. stopped and let idle, fans came on then went off normally temp normal just below half way, about one third up from cold. I'm going to replace the cap as it looks to be the origanal, (208000+) is a little long. I'll keep ya'll posted. Thanks again.

:wave: Thanks for the quick responces but I got lucky it's just the rad cap. I just took a look under the hood for ideas I squesed the upper rad hose and had air and coolent enter the over flow tank. so I must be getting air in the system while driving because the cap is not sealing right. I'll pick up another one tomorrow and the problem should be solved. I'll keep y'all posted. And thanks again for your help!

:wave: I have been looking at other threads on this and haven't realy found an answer. My problem started about 2 weeks ago when driving to the store, our 90 legacy's temp aproched the red zone by the time I got to the store. I got out and checked the radiator. The uper hose was cold and coolent was sperting out the over flow. When I got back in the car after leaving the store all was good for a short time. It was chilly that morning and had the heater on and noticed that I had no heat and the temp was getting near the red zone again and then I had heat and the temp droped this happened twice more on the way home. So I replaced the thermostat, problem solve. So I thought. Today while driving I slowed for a truck that was turning I noticed the temp was climming, as soon as I started to speed up the temp went to normal. I drove a few miles more and at a stop light the temp went up again. When I started to go again the temp went to normal and the rest of the trip OK. My question Is if i remove the workings out of the old thermostat and used it as a restictor plate would there be any problems? P.S. the the thermostat in the car now has a weep hole.

:wave: Yes kill switches can be defeated. many years ago i saw in Hot Rod a simple but clever design. they put a fuse in the negitive wire from the coil and an extra wire to a switch and then to earth. with the switch on it grounded the coil so no start, but also blew the fuse. so even if they found the switch after the failed atempt it still would not start. One of my high school teachers put a magnetic switch in the dash of a freinds car it was hook to the starter selinoid, the friend had a jewler make a ring with a magnet in it . So to start the car he put his hand on the dash and rub over the hidden magnetic switch and start the car with words of encouragment.

:argue: Use this only in an emergacy! this is not compatible with collent/antifreeze. This is a Used car sales trick ie saw dust int trans/diff, painted hoses, greased belts, rolling back the odometer:(