88 EA82T

http://www.usaradiator.com/SUBARU--COUPE-SEDAN-WAGON--1988.html here's the link

Funny, I just put one in yesterday. I got mine from USA Radiators, part# 1269. The radiator itself is made by CSF. If you need the CSF number let me know, it is covered up the electric fan and I forgot to take a picture of it before I put the fan back on... Just a note, I called USA Radiator before I bought mine to verify that it really was a 2-row radiator I was buying and their computer showed three in stock. I asked them to verify that they really were 2-row radiators and it turns out only one of them really was. So a word of caution, ask them to physically verify that it is a 2-row before they ship it to you.

Well, I just replaced the coolant line in the picture on the bottom of the turbo which wasn't fun since I had to remove the turbo to get to it. I am sure all of the coolant lines are tight and not leaking so I am thinking it is something internal to the exhaust and/or the turbo. My antifreeze looks green but I did just put a gallon in to top it off after the coolant line on the turbo split and I replaced it. I think my overflow bottle has gone down about 1/4" from full in the last 100 miles or so. If I do have a leak it is a pretty small one right now. I did see some brown sticky stuff on the radiator cap when I topped off the radiator. I am not smelling burning antifreeze in the car or out of the car. Maybe it smokes a bit as car warms up? I was just chalking that up to cold mornings but maybe there is more to it? What would the antifreeze look like if it had oil in it?

I need some assistance/advice from those of you more experienced in turbos than I am... 1988 GL10 Wagon AWD MT 1.8L Turbo (obviously) It looks like I am leaking coolant inside the turbo and it is coming out on the flange that connects to the exhaust pipe. You can see the white dried up stuff on the flange and where the waste gate actuator connects. I cannot see any white dried up stuff on either of the exhaust headers where they connect to the heads so hopefully it is not leaking at the headgaskets or from the heads. So I am guessing that the coolant is leaking in the turbo and getting blown into the exhaust then burning off. My coolant reservoir looses maybe a 1/4" of inch every couple of days and I do not have any other coolant leaks on the car. The oil on the dipstick looks like oil too. So does it sound like it is just the turbo leaking coolant? Anything else I should check out?

So the white cloud followed me into the parking lot at lunch time today... The gauge never got hot and I shut it off right away. It looks like I have a coolant leak on the line going into the bottom of the turbo. How hard is it to change that coolant line? It looks like I have to pull the turbo to get at it. Is that correct? What else should I change and/or replace while I have the turbo out? Please let me know if there are any tricks or tips to replacing the coolant line. Thanks.

The JDM EA82T in my car came from: Foreign Engines Inc 417 Northwest Blvd, Coeur d Alene, ID 83814 (208) 664-1559 You could call them and ask. I don't have any idea what the differences are since I don't have a point of reference. The motor was installed while my brother owed the car about ten years ago. The only thing I have seen is another 02 sensor that is right at the exhaust exit of the turbo but the wires are cut right there.

I just used generic 1/4" and 1/2" coolant line. Just the stuff you buy by the foot. Good luck and post again if you fix it.

I had a similar problem about a month ago where I was seeing coolant on the top of the engine on the turbo side near the throttle body. I couldn't see anything when it was idling but it would only leak when the motor was rev'ed up. I had my wife rev it up while I watched the coolant spray the spare tire... Check the following lines: 1) 1/2" rubber coolant line that goes to the turbo that is on the top of the engine on the turbo side next to the throttle body 2) 1/4" rubber coolant line that is the preheat line for the throttle body that comes off the intake manifold On a side note, my operators manual says that the turbo model is a high performance car and that you should let it idle for a minute before turning the motor off to let the turbo cool down... Hopefully you just have to replace a hose and not the turbo.

Where did you get them?

Pls, keep me in the loop on this one. I am planning on doing the same thing to my GL10. I just got an '02 stock WRX TMIC off CL today for $15... Of course my water pump went out on Thursday so I am spending this weekend replacing the water pump, timing belts and all the seals on the front of the motor so it might be awhile before I get to it. This is my first go round with timing belts so we will see if I get it done before monday...

Yep, I installed the OEM thermostat based on the recommendations here. I also installed the proper NGK plugs and wires based on the recommendations here. My car runs pretty good and I depend on it to commute 50 miles a day roundtrip. I am just trying to do the best I can to make my motor last since I am a little paranoid also based on what I have read here and I can't afford the downtime or the money to EJ it which is probably beyond my mechanical ability anyway. I do have an all metal radiator for an automatic installed (my car is a manual). I just need to figure out if it is a single or dual row core. My coolant temperature goes up a bit when I turn the AC on so I might need to flush or replace my radiator before it gets too hot around here. The next couple of projects are replacing the mechanical fan with an electric one to take some stress off the engine and improve cooling and then try to find the parts to install an intercooler. I haven't had good luck with the junkyards around here to find the parts so hopefully when I get to Portland in May I can hit the u-pull it yards to find an intercooler setup...

I have an 88 GL10 with the stock EA82 turbo and I replaced my thermostat back in September. I took some pictures to show the difference between the one that was in my car (on the right) and OEM one I replaced it with (on the left). The Subaru part number is 21200AA121. The big difference is the cross sectional area where coolant can pass through so the benefit would be more flow through the radiator which should improve the cooling efficiency. I hadn't seen a direct comparison like this on the board so I thought it would be good to add...

Last weekend I fixed a leak I had on the coolant line that goes from the intake manifold to preheat the throttle body. The trick was it would only leak when I revved the motor up. So at idle everything was fine but once the water pump started spinning faster and building pressure then it would shoot coolant out. Something else to check.

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

I am looking for some help finding replacement bulbs for the instrument panel in my '88 GL10 Turbo with the Digidash. There are four bulbs on the perimeter that light up the instrument panel and the two at the bottom around the odometer and the trip mileage counter are burned out. They look like the white and black based bulbs below (the brown one is the back light for the rear wiper/washer switch, also burned out). The bulbs are not the standard 1/4 turn bulbs that you can get at Napa and my local Subaru dealer wants $11 for one bulb plus he can't get them until the end of February. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

On mine, I found that the check valve was corroded. After the washer pump there is about 12” of tubing then a spring loaded check valve, the tubing continues up to the nozzle above the rear window. I pulled the check valve out and then ran the washer pump and it shot wash fluid across the garage so I knew the pump was good. I soaked the check valve in white vinegar for 10 minutes then made sure the check ball moved freely by poking it with a little screw driver. Put it back together and for the first time since I bought the car four years ago I can see behind me…

Check your fan on the water pump too. I think the clutch was weak in mine and the temperature would start to go up when I ran the AC so I could only run it for a couple of minutes. I replaced it with one from the junkyard and now I can run the AC without the temperature going up. If you find a dual/two row radiator, please post where you got and the part number so I can get one too. Thanks.

swapped the plastic one for an all metal one that is for an automatic but i am not sure if it is single or dual row. the temperature is normal and rock solid all the time without the AC running.

The fan clutch was weak or the spring in it was broken. Replaced it with a used one from the junkyard and now the temperature stays closer to normal when the AC is on. Supposed to be close to 100 here tomorrow so we will see if solves the issue or not...

So at break time, I started it up and watched the AC compressor belt. When the compressor turns on, there is definitely a load on the system and the belt starts to jump at bit. The jump smooths out when the AC is turned off. The belt tension ok and the electric fan is turning on. So I am guessing the AC compressor is putting too much drag on the system and it makes the engine run hotter. Is there a cheap way to fix this (other than roll down the window...)?

Even though the radiator is only 2 years old? I haven't let it get to the red.

I have a 1988 GL10 fulltime 4WD 5MT turbo wagon. The water temperature is normal all time except if I turn the AC on. When I turn the AC on I can watch the temperature go up and then I turn it off before it gets to the red and it goes back down to normal pretty quick. This happens even at 70 mph where there should be plenty of air moving across the radiator. The car got a new radiator/thermostat about 2 years ago but then the car sat for 18 months while I was over seas. Oh, the radiator is full of coolant too. I am thinking of starting with draining/refilling and putting in an OEM thermostat, is there something else to look at?

so what do I need to do to get the fuel injectors cleaned out?

Tire pressure is ok... any other ideas?

Ok, I have a 1988 GL10 Full time 4wd EA82 turbo 5-speed. My gas mileage used to average 24-26 mpg and after parking the car while I was out of the country for 18 months I have gotten 15 to 20 mpg over the last 4 tanks of gas. I did put some fuel conditioner in before I parked it and I ran a can of Seafoam through it after starting it back up 2 months ago. I also run the Lucas upper cylinder additive with every tank of gas. My check engine light is not on. I have replaced the following parts along with cleaning the MAF sensor: Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, gas cap, O2 sensor What else could be affecting my gas mileage? The O2 sensor wiring was cut and spliced by the previous owner, so how important is the shielding on the wire from the computer? The new O2 sensor doesn't appear to have any shielding?