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I am trying to find a source for a rear baffle plate for my 97 2.2. Most of the online dealers diagrams bring up the oil pan baffle when I do a search. The one in this link shows number 2, but I think it is 34- right. Anyway, 34 is not in their catalogue. Are there aftermarket baffles available? http://www.shopsubaruparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215738&Sectionids=10,0&groupid=10035&subgroupid=20091&componentid=60106&make=32&model=Legacy&year=1997&graphicID=F732055&callout=2&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

Do you make a bead across the bolt holes too, then put the bolts through while it is wet?

I have never used silicone to make an oil pan gasket, but will need to next week. On the oil pan, is the bead run the full width of the pan mating surface, including over the bolt holes? Or do you tr to avoid getting the silicone over the holes/ That seems problematic if trying to make a good tight seal? I was thinking about an 1/4 inch bead all around, let cure for a few minutes, attach finger tight, then torque an hour later. You guys that do this often, chime in.

I need to fix my heads, replace some valves on a phase 1 2.2 What style valve spring compressor works best on these? If the "C" style, what size adapter will I need for it, or.. is there a particular tool that comes with the right size adapter?

So you are going to run these batteries in series? Why do you want 24 volts/ I think that will fry your alternator and lots of electrics Take a look at this howto: http://www.ehow.com/how_7273962_do-dual-battery-system-vehicle_.html

What year/model is the car? How many total miles and how many miles since the last HG set?

my 97 Lego has never made good fuel mileage since I have had it. It gets about 25 on the highway. My 98 with the same mileage got 28-29, before it was totalled. Yesterday, with the heads pulled, I can see a fair amount of carbon build up on the pistons and chambers. By fair amount, I mean more than any other I have ever seen on a 100K plus mile 2.2 Never had a check engine lights. compressions were always good 190 or better, kept in tune with Denso plugs, wires etc... All the cylinders look the same, so I am wondering if fuel pressure regulator could be the cause, or maybe egr. Anyone have a good idea?

You went to all that trouble and did not replace the dryer?

Is this the same 2.5 SOHC engine that is found in 99-02 Legacy and Outback wagons/ I'm looking for another wagon and the 2.2's are getting hard to find in clean shape with low <150k miles.

[]first off- thanks Nipper. now, I can't find it in the manual. Can anyone tell me the torque value for the cam pulley bolts on the 2.2? Never Mind, Found it 58 ft/lbs]

Is there a factory service manual for the 97 2.2 available somewhere to download? I specifically need the head removal and installation torque values and sequence.

Thanks, Will a standard valve spring compressor work for them?

Okay, now that we have circled around, back to the original question : So I am thinking about trying to just replace the valves that are bent, but how can you tell if the valve guides are okay?

It was one cylinder on each side that is bad. The reason I want to do them myself is that the machine shops around here really expensive. The cheapest quote I got was 325 for two heads.

While waiting to complete the engine swap oddysey on my 97 lego, I am planning to repair the heads on the engine pulled out. Got two zero compression cylinders after indexing the new timing belt wrong, and trying to crank it ( it never started) Don't know how only two cylinders were damaged. So I am thinking about trying to just replace the valves that are bent, but how can you tell if the valve guides are okay? I don't think surfacing should be necessary in this case

It does have an egr on it now. The engine came out of a 98 Impreza, so someone must have moved the egr over to it I guess. I also noticed that the baffle plate is metal, not plastic. I'm buying the engine from an individual who made a deal with me to install it as well. Thought I was buying a 98 with 130,000 miles on it. We are going to have to work something out about the price however. He's a nice guy, and I believe he thought it was a 98 engine, as he bought the car from someone else to part out. It was running and driving when he bought it. What is a fair price for a 95 motor with unknown mileage?

Is there any way to identify the year make of the engine by the numbers stamped on it? I assume and EJ 18 would say EJ18 on it. Oh yeah, this one has the old style tensioner. I thought 98's had the new style tensioner.

The 2.2 engine I am having installed in my 97 lego wagon is supposed to be from a 98 Impreza. However it has dual port heads and the power steering pump outlet is different. Is this an older engine or did the 98 2.2 have dual port heads? I'm supposed to be paying for a 98 low mileage engine.

engine is not running

I need to move my 97 automatic lego, about a mile. Is it okay to pull it with a strap with the AWD fuse installed/ The only thing is the radiator is out and the transmission cooler lines are disconnected, so will the tranny turn and pump the fluid out? Does the key need to be on with the AWD fuse installed to keep the rear diff off?

Thanks, now onto the next project in another thread

They are both 2.2 with automatics. Just not sure about any differences between Impreza 98 and Legacy 97. I have not seen the other engine yet. Going to get it tomorrow. Is there a guide for engine removal/installation somewhere?

I'm looking at an engine out of a 98 Impreza OBS 2.2, to put in my 97 Lego wagon. The Lego has a 2.2 but it needs heads done. They are both automatic. Will the wiring harnesses match up okay? Are there any differences to deal with?

Been waiting for weeks to change the timing belt on my son's 97 Lego. Wanted to do it while on vacation and take my time, but he couldn't so we did it today. I have never done a phase 1 engine before, and mis-identified the mark on the crank. I used the little arrow instead of the dot. Cranked the engine - no start. Retimed with the correct mark on the crank, and it ran- really bad. Put compression gage on it and cyl 1 and 2 are flat. I can't believe I did that. Was in a bit of a hurry, now it's gonna cost me, because I have to leave tomorrow to go to work and can't fix it myself. Looks like I'll be ordering rebuilt heads from 1st subaru or maybe Walker Subaru in Renton.. Since I don't know how many valve are bent, or if any guides are bad, I figure to bit the bullet for rebuilt heads. Machine shop prices here are going crazy high. So, Don't use the little arrow head on the crank gear! and don't use Haynes manuals. I told my wife, in all these years of repairing cars and airplanes, I have never damaged one- till now.

The seller emailed me and said Kabuki is a re brander of GMB and NTN parts. Sure enough, when I looked closely at the seals, they are stamped NTN. The water pump is Evergreen brand,. Guess I'll give it a try,