eppoh

I have been a user of Amsoil pure synthetic for many years on many vehicles, ( gas and diesel) all of which were switched to Amsoil with more years and mileage than yours- including my 2 Legacies. All of them lasted 1/4 million miles with Amsoil, changing it every 15000 miles and changing filters every 3 to 4000 miles. As far as I know the ones I sold are still running. So, to answer your question, Amsoil has an engine flush they recommend when switching over. I did it on one car, but since then, I just switch to Amsoil and make the first change interval shorter- like 7000 miles with a filter at 4000. Some people will claim that changing to synthetic will cause oil leaks. Not my experience- I think it is a wives tale. BTW, I am not an Amsoil dealer, but I can tell you how to buy it a little cheaper from the same guy I do. Maybe there is an Amsoil dealer on this list too.

Lots of variables to consider. Are you the original owner and know the history of the car? If so, and you are confident- get it repaired. What part of So Cal are you going. Is there good public transportation there to get to work? Check out the So Cal craigslist to see what you could buy there. The smog thing is a problem, so if you get there and within the first few months get the notorious 0420 code, you can be in for a bunch more money- if you are not a DIY guy. I just missed out buying a 96 Lego in really nice shape in San Diego for 1800 from a guy moving back to Australia. It had current Cal inspections and smog. Oh BTW, I am 1/2 mile off I-10 an hour west of Houston, so if you are going that way and have some trouble or want to stop by or , you are welcome to call up, use my garage or whatever- coffee and chat. We have 3 Subies in the garage and a fridge full of cold stuff. PM me if you want and we can exchange contact info

When you took it in for the belt change, did the shop offer or suggest changing the idlers and water pump? My money would be on one of those. Any shop with subie experience should have suggested changing them. But, a competent shop with no subie experience might not have known. Pulling the timing cover and using a mechanics stethoscope with the engine running will likely reveal the source of noise. If it is an idler or water pump, you should change them all while it is apart. One other thought, is the accessory belt idler for the a/c. I have an Impreza 2.2 in my garage right now that had that idler go out and threw the ac belt through the timing cover and knocked the T belt off, crashed all the valves. Here again, a stethoscope can tell you if that is the source. Let us know what you find.

I'm pretty sure the 2.2 went to phase 2 in 99. 800 dollars for a good low mileage engine is a fair price based on what I found when looking for one myself. Just figure in all new belts since they are over 10 years old. Has the owner or can you do a leak down test on the cylinders?

This is an excellent thread and thank you to all the pro's and others participating. I have a 97 Lego that has the 420 code for several months now. No smog inspections required here, so I can still drive it but I do want to fix it. It is a southern car, and the exhaust system is clean and tight. I have cleared the code twice, only to have it return after a couple hundred miles. After reading this thread, I now know why it takes that long. So, I am waiting to hear how Steves72 gets his resolved. I am considering replacing the front O2 first- but can't do anything now or for a while- recovering from back surgery. So keep the thread alive and thanks.

If you are looking for a wagon, the Subaru is the way to go. I own 3 and am pretty satisfied with them, However, they are older with 2.2l engines. There are lots of complaints about the 2.5's that I am not sure have been resolved to this day. I also have an older Honda that is bullet proof. To be honest, if they still made a wagon,. I would buy one. I live in the south and don't need the extra expense of all wheel drive. Subaru makes a FWD version, just not for US consumption. It is a marketing thing. Just my opinion. YMMV

You can do a leak down compression test. You might have got lucky and only bent valves on one head.

Most likely air in the system. Patience is important with this. Be sure the front end is raised a little when burping it. You said it has a subie thermostat. Good. I had the same problem on my 97. Just take your time and burp again., It will prolly work out. Subie thermostats cannot be installed backwards.

don't mean to hijack the thread, but 423,000 miles! Has that engine ever been opened up?

This guy in Houston prolly has one., I think the car is low mileage too. http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1651811324.html Good luck.

Ordered the permacoil today. Local store had only sae sizes. Do you remember how many coils it takes?

Radiator is out. any suggestions on how to keep the drill at the proper angle? It does not look so easy as doing it on a bench.

In the process of changing water pump on my 2.2 while the heads are off. Set torque wrench to 8 ft/lbs. Second time around the bolt at 2 oclock got real easy. You know that feeling. When I took out the bolt, about 4 threads remained on the bolt. Never tried helicoil on aluminum blocks. Is that the way to go is there a better alternative? Getting a drill down there may be a challenge. Engine is in the car.

You might want to put some locktite on the stud. Be careful not to over torque it. Use a torque wrench and follow the spec in the manual.

I'm with nipper. It is hard to believe, but my Impreza was trashed because the accessory belt tensioner for the pulley was not tightened properly. It made a noise, that a teenager ignored- until it wore through the timing cover and kicked off the timing belt and trashing the valves. Also and area of possible noise is at the little cover on the bell housing for the flywheel access point.. I can imagine if that little plug were inserted crooked it might rub and make a noise.

Depends on who the timing belt is made by, and if this is for a phase 1 (60k change interval) or Phase 2 (105k) change interval. Don't go with a no name chinese belt. Bando, Gates, Dayco, Subaru are ok. Ask the seller.

Yes, that is what I mean. Don't know how you would helicoil that, but there must be a way. Mine is a Phase 2 2.2. If you have a 2.5 maybe it is different.

What year/model is the car?

That really stinks. As far as a helicoil... I thought these blocks had multiple level of threads for the head bolts. I stuck a curved pick down the head bolt holes in mine and though I felt three distinct sets of threads, separated by maybe am eighth inch of smooth bore in between. Maybe I am mistaken. In case you are wondering why I did that... I am doing heads with the engine in the car, never again... anyway I was thinking about shortening the lower rear bolt a little to make it easier to install, and was wondering if the threads in the block were as long as the threads on the head bolts. They are very long. Now I know why.

Chain wrench around the old timing belt looks like the way to go. Thanks for the links

No hex on my cams. These are phase 2 heads with cam cases. Maybe that is why, Any other ideas? Al a last resort, I could buy the Subaru special tool. Anyone know what they cost?

Tried using the old belt to get it off, It tore, I'll look for that part of the cam to put a wrench on, did not see it before,

I was hoping to install and torque the cam pullies, while the heads are off. How do you all recommend holding the pulley? the right one is soild plastic I think. Can the cam be held from the back side with a pin spanner wrench> It is a lot of torque. Something like 50 pounds.

I have a 97 Legacy that has the single all in one headlight/side marker lights. My son's 98 has the headlights that are seperate from the side marker. His are much brighter. The reflectors are better and the lenses are clear. Mine have those lines all across them. Will the head/side marker lights from a 98 or 99 Legacy work on my 97 with no mods?

If his 99 Impreza OB is a 2.2, it will be a Phase 2 SOHC